The shims are 25 mm diameter. those have been used by all of the Japanese manufacturers.

Some Honda shims are the same.
The models are: 1979 thru 1983 CB 750 K,F&C
CB 900 F&C
CB 1000 C
CB 1100 F
CB 750 SC

kawasaki Concours, and others.
Yamaha V4 VMax, and Royal Star
i don't know any of the Suzuki models
Even some honda Civic autos use that diameter shims.

My list is certainly not complete, just a few that I have info about.


I've not lost any large amount of oil when adjusting the valves.

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Originally Posted by polex

Mainly I want to be trust about shims availability in some shop near me. I suppose that the Legend TT shims are the same used in few Japanese motorbike....What is the diameter of the Triumph Legend TT shims ? Are there any Japanese motorcycle having the same shims used in my bike ?

The shims are 25mm diameter and available from Kawasaki, maybe from Honda but I'm not sure about Honda. Take a shim with you to the dealer -- most parts guys won't know what it is.

Quote:

I suppose that the engine oil level is below the front side cover on the right side. Can I remove the cover without removing the engine oil ?

The oil in the cam area will be very close to the edge of the cylinder head so expect some dripping. You can remove the excess with a spoon for working on the cams. I use a large syringe but a turkey baster will work as well.

Jim

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Originally Posted by jimmyj900

The cams have to be rotated so that the base circle of the cam is facing the shim, but if you loosen the cam chain to loosen the cams you will not be able to rotate them using the hex nut on the end of the crankshaft. The way most folks do it without the Triumph tool is to measure all the clearances, write them down, and then lift the cams to change the shims. You will need a torque wrench to tighten the cams down again and the tightening has to be done in sequence or the cams won't tighten properly. You'll also need to remove the cam chain tensioner and reset it before you reassemble the cams. Be sure to get a replacement gasket for that and the front right cover.

OK, this procedure is used also in motorcycle having the shims under the buckets. I followed this procedure twice on my Kawasaki ZR-7S.

Originally Posted by jimmyj900

Originally Posted by polex I suppose that the engine oil level is below the front side cover on the right side. Can I remove the cover without removing the engine oil ? The oil in the cam area will be very close to the edge of the cylinder head so expect some dripping. You can remove the excess with a spoon for working on the cams. I use a large syringe but a turkey baster will work as well.

As I told, my English is not good, there is a misunderstanding.
I refer to the front right cover. I suppose that the engine oil level in the crankcase is below the front right cover. Consequently I can remove the cover without draining the engine oil before.
Is it correct ?
I have an hint for reducing the oil in the cam area
The oil in the cam area can be drained to the crankcase by leading the motorcycle on the right side before starting the job. By leading the motorcycle, the oil moves on the right side of the cam area and should be drained to crankcase through the cam chain inter-space.

Originally Posted by polex

I refer to the front right cover. I suppose that the engine in the crankcase is below the front right cover. Consequently I can remove the cover without draining the engine oil before. Is it correct ?

Correct. The oil level in the sump is well below the edge of the front cover. You might get a few drops of oil, but that's about all.

Jim

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A carburetor diaphragm seems to be burned and I suspect a back fire from the engine in to the carburetor.
A small valve clearance can justify this behavior.
I suspect that the previous owner has installed a camshaft of another Triumph motorcycle in order to increase the power performance.
I am looking for a criteria for recognizing the Legend camshaft.

I try to explain you a possible way for recognizing which kind of camshaft is installed.
There are 3 version of camshafts for different model of Triumph, with the following timing:
1) IN 211° EX 210° OEM Legend TT camshafts
2) IN 251° EX 256°
3) IN 262° EX 262°
Those timing on the camshafts have to be divided by 2 (1 camshaft turn = 2 crankshaft turns):
1) IN 105° EX 105° OEM Legend TT
2) IN 125° EX 128°
3) IN 131° EX 131°
The camshaft sprocket has 38 teeth, if I want to convert the timing in number of camshaft sprocket teeth:
1) IN 11 EX 11 OEM Legend TT
2) IN 13 EX 13.5
3) IN 14 EX 14
If the valve are still open for more than 11 teeth then the camshaft is not the Legend TT camshaft.
Is it correct ?
Are there some other criteria for recognizing the OEM camshaft ?

I appreciate very much your help.
Thank You.

OEM cams from my Thunderbird (not being used ).
The Legend used the same cams.

those numbers in BadMouth's cam pics are just casting numbers and are not to be used to identify the actual grind .

the blue paint marks identify them as stock . jimmyj900 used to have pics showing the actual profiles .

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question i have after looking at polex's diaphram pics is what do everyone elses look like ?

all 3 of mine look somewhere between the good ones and the bad one . the rubber is still quite pliable and they aren't perforated . all the other ones i've seen (wifes buell and my old honda V4 ) all looked the same so i've never questioned them .

not cheap to replace . bout $70 each .

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Originally Posted by polex

...I am looking for a criteria for recognizing the Legend camshaft.

I put a photo in my album that is an end view of the Legend 'blue' 211 deg. cam versus the Trophy 'green' 251 deg. cam. (Clicky below!)

You should be able to compare the profiles of the cams from the picture.

I also put in a chart of the Triumph cams that will fit in the 885's. The 955 cams listed are the early models that have the same number of teeth on the cam sprocket.

Be careful in trying to figure out cam duration since that's measured in crankshaft degrees and the camshafts rotate at 1/2 the crankshaft speed.

A '240 degree' cam will be 240 degrees of crankshaft rotation but 120 degrees of camshaft rotation.

Jim

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Originally Posted by Woody1911a1

question i have after looking at polex's diaphram pics is what do everyone elses look like ? all 3 of mine look somewhere between the good ones and the bad one . the rubber is still quite pliable and they aren't perforated.

The diaphragms should be smooth, not wrinkled or dimpled, and relatively shiny if you clean them off with a rag and a bit of gasoline.

Polex's bad diaphragm shows dimples where the rubber is scorched and hardened and no longer flexible.

It will work for a while but eventually crack where the rubber is hardened. Also, the vacuum response will be a bit off on that cylinder due to the stiffening of the diaphragm.

Jim

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