Hi,
You also need to clean out the rust and coat the inside of your tank. A rusty tank will cause all kinds of carb problems. Clean one jet and another will become blocked.

Steve

Originally Posted by jimmyj900

I've never personally tested the Haynes or FP settings against the Triumph setting so I can't verify whether any of them match up.

I disassembled the carbs and I can say that the TWO setting are coherent.
Using the Triumph method the level was 4mm below joint: 5.5 mm below the standard.
Using the Haynes method the height was 20mm: 5.5 mm higher than the standard.
Now I tuned the level to 14.5mm for all carbs.
I verify that the all part was in stock (Needle N3RF, main 98, pilot 38).
I cleaned the jet using carburetor cleaner spray.

Originally Posted by jimmyj900

IF you have an unmodified air filter box then the stock needles and jets are the best setup for the bike. IF the filter box has been drilled or replaced with individual pod filters then you'll have to go by the 'proven setups' thread to get the bike running properly.

I have the OEM air box with no holes.
The filter is made by foam, but I don't know if it is OEM.
What is it the pod filter ?

Originally Posted by Jacksf

Hi, You also need to clean out the rust and coat the inside of your tank. A rusty tank will cause all kinds of carb problems. Clean one jet and another will become blocked.

This is the first potential problem which warred me.
I suppose that the rust should clog the gasoline filters before clogging the jet.
But I found the gasoline filters in good condition.


Anyway the trouble are not finished.
The carburetors of the right cylinder is little bit dirty on the engine side, the diaphragm is not in good condition and the corresponding spark plug is black.
I suppose that the inner valve clearance is too close.
Probably I will have to adjust the valve, but I don't have the valve shim removal tool.
I did the valve adjustment on another motorbike having shims under bucket.
Can I use a similar approach for changing the shim above the bucket ?
I mean:
1) remove chain tensioner
2) loose camshaft
3) Change the shims

Have the shims the size printed on them ?

Thank you very much.

You helped me so much.

Sorry for my bad English, I live in USA until 7 months.

"1) remove chain tensioner
2) loose camshaft
3) Change the shims"

Yes it can be done this way but it's much easier and safer to do it with the compressor tool.
Here is an excellent "how to" on the valve adjustment:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/valves/

Here is a scource for the adjustment tool:
http://www.geocities.com/mustanggarage/shim_tool.html

Somewhere on this forum are plans/drawings for making your own. (I just can't remember where)

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Originally Posted by polex

I disassembled the carbs and I can say that the TWO setting are coherent. Using the Triumph method the level was 4mm below joint: 5.5 mm below the standard. Using the Haynes method the height was 20mm: 5.5 mm higher than the standard.

Thanks! That's good to know.

Quote:

Now I tuned the level to 14.5mm for all carbs. I verify that the all part was in stock (Needle N3RF, main 98, pilot 38). I cleaned the jet using carburetor cleaner spray. I have the OEM air box with no holes. The filter is made by foam, but I don't know if it is OEM. What is it the pod filter ?

The OEM filter is black foam and since you've got all the stock parts installed you should be in good shape there.

Pod filters are individual filters that clamp onto the inlets of the carburetors. Some folks swear by them but personally I don't like them.

Quote:

Anyway the trouble are not finished. The carburetors of the right cylinder is little bit dirty on the engine side, the diaphragm is not in good condition and the corresponding spark plug is black.

If the diaphragm is cut or perforated it must be replaced along with the slide. There is no way to repair them or to replace just the diaphragm.

Quote:

I suppose that the inner valve clearance is too close. Probably I will have to adjust the valve, but I don't have the spring puller. I did the valve adjustment on another motorbike having shims under bucket. Can I use a similar approach for changing the shim above the bucket ?

I'd suggest you check the valve clearances before you consider changing shims. That requires removing the valve cover and the front cover on the right side of the engine to access the end of the crankshaft so you can turn it. You can reuse the valve cover gasket but you'll probably need a gasket for the side cover.

Quote:

Sorry for my bad English, I live in USA until 7 months.

Not a problem. You're doing very well for only seven months!

Jim

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Quote:
Sorry for my bad English, I live in USA until 7 months.

Not a problem. You're doing very well for only seven months!

Jim

I agree! There are people that have lived here their whole lives that you could not figure out what they are saying!!!!!

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A bike with only 300 miles on it should not need a valve adjustment no matter how long it's been sitting. I wouldn't bother with them until you have the carbs sorted out.

Take care of the simplest things first.
A couple things I didn't see mentioned (sorry if I just missed them);

There is another fuel filter located where the fuel tubing meets the carburetors. It's a tiny duck bill shaped thing that fits inside the "T" where the tubing slides on.

You only seem to be experiencing a problem with one carburetor, so sort that one out first. Clean the jets with a tiny piece of wire and shine a light through them to ensure that there aren't any obstructions. To find out if the diaphram is the problem, try swapping it with one from another carb and see if the symptoms move to the other cylinder.

Some carb problems turn out to be electrical.
Doubtful at such a low mileage, but a bad coil will cause stumbling at low RPM and a fouled plug. Hang the plug wire of the offending cylinder off the side of the bike and attach a grounded spare plug to it. Make sure you're getting a nice fat consistent spark. If not, do a search on here for coil problems.

...just remembered one other thing about bikes that have sat for a long time.....check for mice nests in the airbox!

Originally Posted by BadMouth

A bike with only 300 miles on it should not need a valve adjustment no matter how long it's been sitting. I wouldn't bother with them until you have the carbs sorted out.

Yes, I know it.
I have a Japanese motorcycle in Italy with 97000Km (60000miles) on it.
I checked the valve clearance twice: 33000Km and 75000Km and I checked the carburetor once at 80000km; then my philosophy is to reduce the intervention as minimum as possible.
But in this case I figure out 3 cases:
1) The motorcycle rode more than 300 miles
2) The previous owner have made modifications (carbs and high performance camshafts)
3) The bad carburetor comes from another motorcycle.
I posted 2 photo on my album about carburetors and diaphragm.
http://www.triumphrat.net/memberalbu...7948&protype=1
The bad carburetor is on the right side, the corresponding diaphragm is on the left; it is damaged but not perforated.
I think about close valve clearance because a back fire can justify the diaphragm status and the black stain on the carburetor.

Originally Posted by jimmyj900

I'd suggest you check the valve clearances before you consider changing shims. That requires removing the valve cover and the front cover on the right side of the engine to access the end of the crankshaft so you can turn it. You can reuse the valve cover gasket but you'll probably need a gasket for the side cover.

My plan is buying the feeler gauge and silicon sealer and check the valve clearance.
In this way I can check also the status of camshaft, in my opinion the camshaft status is a good indicator of the health of the engine.
If I need to adjust the valve then I need some tools that I can not find in the shop in Huntsville (Alabama).
If I don't find the Triumph valve shim removal tool then I try the backup method (loose the camshaft for changing the shims).
Mainly I don't need to remove completely the camshaft for removing the shims, I can loose it and lift a little bit just for changing the shims.
Can I do that without removing the side cover ?

Originally Posted by KD5QOQ

Here is a scource for the adjustment tool: http://www.geocities.com/mustanggarage/shim_tool.html

Very useful website, but the tool should be available in 1 month.

Originally Posted by BadMouth

There is another fuel filter located where the fuel tubing meets the carburetors. It's a tiny duck bill shaped thing that fits inside the "T" where the tubing slides on.

Now I rode 700 miles and I refilled the tank 5 or 6 times.
At 1000 miles I checked also the filter inside the T and it was pretty clean. For this reason I suppose that the rust in the fuel tank should be not a problem.

Originally Posted by BadMouth

You only seem to be experiencing a problem with one carburetor, so sort that one out first. Clean the jets with a tiny piece of wire and shine a light through them to ensure that there aren't any obstructions. To find out if the diaphram is the problem, try swapping it with one from another carb and see if the symptoms move to the other cylinder.

I cleaned the jet by using a carburetor cleaner spray. The jet are not obstructed.
If the problem is back fire (open valve) and I swap the diaphragm then I will damage a good diaphragm.

Originally Posted by BadMouth

Doubtful at such a low mileage, but a bad coil will cause stumbling at low RPM and a fouled plug. Hang the plug wire of the offending cylinder off the side of the bike and attach a grounded spare plug to it. Make sure you're getting a nice fat consistent spark. If not, do a search on here for coil problems.

This is a very simple and useful test that I will do.

Originally Posted by BadMouth

...just remembered one other thing about bikes that have sat for a long time.....check for mice nests in the airbox!

I disassembled both air box, no mice inside, but I found an alligator in the carburetor bowl.

Thank you to all.
The web links are very useful.

Originally Posted by polex

Can I do that without removing the side cover ?

It is much easier to check the valves if you remove the front side cover on the right side, the one that is sorta kidney shaped. There is a hex on the end of the crankshaft and you can turn the engine over by hand easily with the right wrench. Get a gasket for that cover, or be prepared to make a new one, that one is delicate so can tear easily.

Since the previous owner installed camshafts, I think it's a good idea to check the clearances.

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I should like to collect some information before opening the cam cover.
Mainly I want to be trust about shims availability in some shop near me.
I suppose that the Legend TT shims are the same used in few Japanese motorbike.
Probably I find easier the shims if I refer to Japanese shims respect to Triumph shims.
What is the diameter of the Triumph Legend TT shims ?
Are there any Japanese motorcycle having the same shims used in my bike ?

Originally Posted by denny

It is much easier to check the valves if you remove the front side cover on the right side, the one that is sorta kidney shaped. There is a hex on the end of the crankshaft and you can turn the engine over by hand easily with the right wrench. Get a gasket for that cover, or be prepared to make a new one, that one is delicate so can tear easily.

I suppose that the engine oil level is below the front side cover on the right side.
Can I remove the cover without removing the engine oil ?

Originally Posted by KD5QOQ

Here is an excellent "how to" on the valve adjustment: http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/valves/

The article states:
"The engine will have a lot of oil collected towards the front of the bike because the engine tilts towards the front. The level of oil on mine was just below the top of the engine casing, preventing all but a few drops from leaking out"
Before starting the job I can lead the motorcycle on the right side. In this way the cylinder head oil falls into crankcase through the cam chain inter-space.
I used this procedure in other motorcycle for reducing the oil collected in to the cylinder head.

Originally Posted by polex

... The previous owner have made modifications (carbs and high performance camshafts)...I posted 2 photo on my album about carburetors and diaphragm. http://www.triumphrat.net/memberalbu...7948&protype=1 The bad carburetor is on the right side, the corresponding diaphragm is on the left; it is damaged but not perforated. I think about close valve clearance because a back fire can justify the diaphragm status and the black stain on the carburetor.

OK... Now the camshaft issue makes sense. You're correct that if the cam clearance is too tight that it can cause backfires through the carbs.

That can also be caused by a little dirt, lint or corrosion on the valve or valve seat, so checking the valve clearance is a good first move.

The bad diaphragm definately looks fried and backfire would account for that.

Quote:

Mainly I don't need to remove completely the camshaft for removing the shims, I can loose it and lift a little bit just for changing the shims. Can I do that without removing the side cover ?

The cams have to be rotated so that the base circle of the cam is facing the shim, but if you loosen the cam chain to loosen the cams you will not be able to rotate them using the hex nut on the end of the crankshaft.

The way most folks do it without the Triumph tool is to measure all the clearances, write them down, and then lift the cams to change the shims.

You will need a torque wrench to tighten the cams down again and the tightening has to be done in sequence or the cams won't tighten properly.

You'll also need to remove the cam chain tensioner and reset it before you reassemble the cams. Be sure to get a replacement gasket for that and the front right cover.

Jim

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