I dunno. Asking for a reality check.
>'99 Sport - Bumble Bee (popular)
> 18k miles (seen much lower)
> Solo seat only, w/o tail kit (expect both seats and both fender kits)
> Stock exhaust cans (no TORs)
> BELT DRIVE conversion w/o original sprockets/chain (Why!)
> "Full maint" but can't tell me if valves have ever been adjusted?
I know these things are not going down but honestly $4,600 gags me. I'm thinking more like a $4,200 absolute max and a more realistic $3,800.
Comments? Opinions? I don't think this bike is gonna run away from me at $4,600
Maybe he or she doesn't actually want to sell it... I've done that myself over the years. If he/she really wants to sell it then offer $3500 and see where the conversation goes. They either give a flat NO or counter.
I read about a guy in PA(?) that did the belt drive conversions, and I actually spoke with him at one point. He was pretty old then, and my concern was that if I ever had a problem after he was no longer making these custom pulleys, etc., that I would own something which would either not be easily repaired, or so high in cost as to make it not worth the effort. I agree with Charlie - that expensive conversion didn't add to the value of the bike, it decreased it. Also, of course, you lose the flexibility of changing your sprocket ratios to fine tune where you like your power band to be.
I also want to share another tip that is sometimes overlooked when we get fixated on buying a particular item (at least I know that I am guilty of this):
When you get all lathered up and really want something badly (thinking an ebay item for example), it is easy to get caught up in the heat of the moment and do something stupid (pay too much). At times when I am getting obsessed with a purchase, it seems to help me if I step back and say, "Okay, this bike (or other item) will cost me this much money...what else could I have for that same amount of money that would serve me as well (or better)?
This probably sounds painfully obvious, but I know doing this has saved me some major dollars through the years!
Good luck with your search!
I read about a guy in PA(?) that did the belt drive conversions, and I actually spoke with him at one point. He was pretty old then, and my concern was that if I ever had a problem after he was no longer making these custom pulleys, etc., that I would own something which would either not be easily repaired, or so high in cost as to make it not worth the effort. I agree with Charlie - that expensive conversion didn't add to the value of the bike, it decreased it. Also, of course, you lose the flexibility of changing your sprocket ratios to fine tune where you like your power band to be.
Bike came out of Cape Cod 4 yrs ago so this belt drive must have been a popular conversion in that region years ago I guess. I'd never heard of one before. Wonder what the final drive ratio is now myself too. I also agree that although I LOVE the belt on my HD, it's a definite deduct on a Sport for me. Of course, I'll never convince the seller of this.
So, Belt drive, 18k miles, solo seat only and stock exhaust. $3,800 pretty fair? I'm thinking I'd feel better with something with a bit fewer miles, two seats, the fender and a tail kit and TORs for $4,500. I've been following them for a few years an have seen them before but is this still top of the market? My gawd they aren't breaking the $5k mark yet are they? Will they? Jeez!
Mileage is a bit high to justify that price, but I've seen low mileage stock bikes sell well within the mid $4k range, with one with 3k miles on it go for $4600. Stock is the key word, as, unfortunately, mods only hurt value with bikes that are approaching collectable status.
That's a $3500-3700 bike all day and I'm sure that's where it will end up. He'd be better off putting back to stock and selling the belt drive separately. Maybe he can get close to the $4k mark that way depending on how much the new owner values the solo seat (which is an easy $400 sold separately).
I would say to wait it out. I looked for 2 years before i found a 99 sport for $999 outside nyc. Its a bumblebee and had tors and single seat. Granted it also had 40k!!! still runs like a scalded ape tho. I also added a beaut of a king and queen seat from simplyj! thanks bro the old lady loves it.
While my perspective is not grounded in science or anything, I do think $4K to $5K is acceptable IF the condition is excellent and mileage is low. I have been secretly stalking TBS' for sale for a few years now, and I have accepted that $4.5K is a good price for a TBS in excellent condition. Now, that is excellent condition and mostly if not completely stock. Belt drive? This is a bit of a turn off for me. In fact, enough so that I think I would have to pass. No solid technical reason, I guess, just wrong for this motorcycle. I would also have to wonder what other mechanical wizardry has been performed on it.
I fail to understand the reasons people do what they do to thier bikes sometimes. When I look at a bike for possible purchase and I see things that are not original, it makes me suspicious. If you see good reason for the change, it is an improvement. But when you see a mish-mash of odd bits, especially when there is not understandable reason they didn't keep the original piece, I tend to pass. ...J.D.
Just too many righty-tighty mechanics out there these days trying to create a piece of artwork. Trouble is, when you get in to these you find you bought a mess. Just one old mechanic's experience with this. ...J.D.
$4600 is a bit high but it's asking price. You should just make them an offer and see what they will say. One things is for sure, there aren't very many of these for sale and prices are not just firm but creeping up slowly. It's an amazing bike and i would rather pay that money for TBS than for Bonnie of any variety.
25k miles and Belt drive are not problem, all it takes is set of sprockets and chain which you will have to change after 25k miles anyway!
I bought '99 bumble bee with just under 10k miles for $3999 that just needed rear tire, carb gasket and good wash. And for my GF i bought 2000 TBS with 24K miles for 2600 but it needed a lot of work that i was aware of when buying it. Steering bearings, both tires, brake fluid flush, new chain and sprockets, throttle cable, carb cleaning, etc. I'm almost a thousand $ in and i did all the work myself.
This bike with 25k runs better than my 99 with 10k on the clock.
I looked for over a year for it and there were only two for sale in san diego/LA area. One was red '98, original owner and 6k miles, in showroom condition and he wanted $6k, not sure how much it wet for but it sold.
Second was 2000 with a bit over 30k miles and it was $4500, it sold as well.
I also do understand that drive belt makes no sense on this bike but neither do saddle bags and tall windshields that a lot of people put on these bikes!
My objection to the belt drive would be purely cosmetic. It's definitely lower maintenance: no oiling, and no sprockets to wear out. Having never actually worked on one, though, I'm a little puzzled as to how you could install the belt. It's not like it has a master link...
It's actually pretty nice setup. Friend of mine has it on his 900. He tells me that he did it more for maintenance but he is 67 so it's understandable. I think that there are different size pulleys as well to change gear ratio.
It is nicely engineered and it looks very nice on his silver 900 but I would never consider the upgrade on my tbs
Belt drives have their advantages, but are not maintenance free. They have to be aligned just right, or they ride hard left or right on the sprocket and wear prematurely.
I haven't had trouble with mine (TB1600), but just troll the the 1600 forum and there's volumes to be filled with the stories.
I think it is more difficult to determine proper tension without a special tension gauge?
If run under too much tension, I would think the bearings could wear hard at either end?
Just guessing?
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