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2003 TBS CDI options Carmo verses Ignitech

4K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  oil-spitn-rat 
#1 · (Edited)
While on the rack for winter work I've gone through this bike top to bottom and want to consider replacing the CDI unit (smaller Gill unit).
I have seen Igni-tech from CZ and read articles here about it. I do not see the offering for the Triumph T300 bikes.

I am considering the Carmo unit made in Netherlands from Regulatorrectifier.com. I don't see any method of interface like the Ignitech unit which is a disappointment but really I doubt I need to fool much with it. Can someone give me some recent feedback on Carmo/ignitech units?

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1998-2003-triumph-thunderbird-sport-cdi-unit-igniter

I have the triumph ignition testing tool for the prior systems using the larger CDI unit but see no way of interfacing the unit in the 2003; does it require the Activa triumph Gameboy OBII tool?

The bike currently has a motionpro ignition advance wheel installed; should I replace it with the stock unit if I upgrade? The bike does run ok but I feel the system is doomed to fail sooner or later with 13 years of use.

The current mods are following: Epco SS pipes w/o baffle, K&N pods, jetwork with dyno.
Modifications pending in 12-24months: Super 3 HC (750 i think) pistons and sleeves (parts on shelf collecting dust), cam advance on dyno or better cam profiles from Green cams or custom profile from Webcam. Maybe but doubtfully FCR's...:grin2:

Thanks for the help. I'm not in a hurry for the CDI but want to get it ordered before I start building my house or I will never buy it!

Edit: Lastly which voltage regulator is the hotlick setup these days? I know its an issue with many bikes now going to mosfet however I see some folks in the Ducati world NOT using a Mosfet unit?? Thanks KC
 
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#3 ·
The Carmo unit doesn't appear to be user programmable? Which means the rev limiter (assuming same as stock) will be too low for any cam change mods, cutting out before max power is reached. If the compression is raised also, the advance curve may need to be altered a bit. It's also quite expensive and obliges you to change the bike loom connector, rather than offering an adapter. Probably all fine as a straight replacement, tho' I've not heard anything either way about them.

As Slinky says, the alternator on ours is a car type with a built in regulator operating on the alternator field coil. Not like the new bikes at all. Failures are pretty rare.
 
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#4 ·
Thanks Mike,
I'm thinking if Igni-tech is around I will order from them. I got an email from Carmo's engineering staff that came off, we can't help you, piss off. Oddly their vendor was very happy to "work with me" as far as how high I want the rpm limit and where I wanted the curve to fall.

Mike is there a definitive thread on the igntch units?
Thanks
Ken C
 
#6 ·
I had a couple of issues with the ignitech that had me going back to the stock unit, even with green cams.

Keep in mind that many folks have had great luck with the unit. For me, it was an exercise in frustration.

1. Brutally hard starting. Any choke at all, and it would flood. Start with no choke, and then gradually apply, and you might get lucky. It was OK when warm, but more than a couple times I had to put off rides while I recharged the (new) battery.
When I'd switch to the stock igniter, it would start after a half second on the button, even with a half dead battery.
The problem persisted with a variety of jet and airbox configurations, and a variety of programming suggestions offered on these threads and by the very nice Ignitech folks.

2. Back to back dyno runs between stock and ignitech showed the the difference to be negligible below 5000 RPM. The stock igniter clearly superior (4 HP briefly) in dealing with a massive rich area between 5k and 6k. The stock igniter was maybe 1HP better than the ignitech until it hit the rev limiter. However, while the ignitech peaked at the same time, it was still pumping 75 HP when the tracking stopped at 9200 RPM.

I tried to upload the dyno run, but could not.

Again, many have had good success. I just wasn't one of them.
 
#8 ·
1. Brutally hard starting. Any choke at all, and it would flood. Start with no choke, and then gradually apply, and you might get lucky. It was OK when warm,...
I would venture to say that either there was something wrong with your particular unit, or, for whatever reason, it wasn't getting the proper voltage, especially when cranking.
 
#7 ·
Thanks Vertigo1, Feedback is what I'm looking for, the more recent the better. I thought these units made for easier starts and made it easier on the coils. Maybe I'm reading another companies claim. I hope to get some input and feedback but this part of the forum has been rather silent and less inhabited.
Our bikes are becoming yesterday's forgotten relics. It's exciting to see some people haven't forgotten about the older triples!
 
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