Triumphrat

Mojoinco · 03-15-2008

Hello all, I want to powder coat my fork lowers, but can't see an easy way to remove the damping screw (other than drilling out what is apparently the retaining pin). Anyone remove there's?

Might just sandblast them and paint them with epoxy paint (refrigerator paint).

BigAl8295 · 03-15-2008

Can't help you with the screw, but please post pics if you do it.

jimmyj900 · 03-15-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mojoinco

Hello all, I want to powder coat my fork lowers, but can't see an easy way to remove the damping screw (other than drilling out what is apparently the retaining pin). Anyone remove there's?

If by 'damping screw' you mean the screw in the bottom center of the lowers...

I've spun those out with an air wrench. Once it breaks loose, there's usually enough friction to spin it free without one of the 'special tools.'

Triumph has a tool to retain the inner damper assembly and as I remember it someone here fabricated one with a piece of rod and a 30mm nut welded on the end.

It depends on which fork you've got.

Jim

Mojoinco · 03-15-2008

It's the adjustable Kayaba fork. There is a small 'tower' that sticks out to the rear with a dampening adjustment (screw head). It is retained with a pressed in brass colored pin. Not exit hole to press it on through (blind). At least that is what it looks like. The Triumph manual doesn't have a particularly detailed view of the lower fork.

Slinky · 03-15-2008

You should be able to get away with masking the screws off, then carefully trimming back the powder coat with a craft knife.

Mojoinco · 03-15-2008

At a reported 450 F, I am not going to risk a future leak.

Slinky · 03-16-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mojoinco

At a reported 450 F, I am not going to risk a future leak.

My mistake, I had no idea powder coating involved such a high temperature.

CafeKing · 03-16-2008

Hi fella,

I had my TBS forks powder coated. Paint stripped the laquer off to the bare metal then went for it!

A nice mat black now matching the top and bottom yokes.

When they came back from the shop i sprayed WD40 into the brass screw and gently turned it clockwise and anti-clockwise to lube the o-ring. It sqeeked a bit at first but after a few turns it was fine. Not had any issues with leaks.(Touch wood)

10 mins @ 200 degrees C is how it was coated.

Beware of stones chipping the forward surface. You may want to apply some of that clear "Anti-erosion" tape.

Go for it!

Jase

Mojoinco · 03-17-2008

200c ~=450 f (434 f).

I went ot Harbor Freight and bought a smallish sand blaster cabinet (made in India -- something not actually made in China at HF -- oh my Gawd). It was on sale ($70). Has low enough volume that I can run it with my compressor (~6 hp Campbell Hausfield), though it runs continuously. Will have to replace the hoses with something more supple and less collapsible (ought ot be able to find something).

Have the first leg almost done. Corked or plugged all holes as best I could (or screwed bolts into them). WIll take a bit to get all the sand out, I sure. Good idea on the plastic tape. I wanted a matte finish, but that may not happen.

I decided to go with epoxy paint for now. Will have to think about powder coating later. You may want to use something besides WD40, as that is mostly a penetrant and not a lubricant. Perhaps some chain lube for o-rings, or cable type lube. Just a thought. I taped over mine with electric tape and intend to not paint that face. Will research this whole process for next winter (hmmm, maybe time for revalving at Racetech, etc).

Will be running 15 weight oil this year (went from 7.5 to 10 the last two years).

The only issue with epoxy paint is it takes sooo long to dry.