Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

Getting the Legend ready for the next 50K miles...

10K views 69 replies 11 participants last post by  WSC 
#1 ·
OK, I ended up Purchasing a 1999 Legend with 49,000 miles on it. Over all it's in good shape. It's essentially a one owner bike. The original owner bought it new and sold it to his son last year. His son didn't ride it much and it's been sitting since last fall. The carbs need cleaning, the front brake drags, and the forks leak profusely.

Oh, it has aluminum rims and a center stand! Also appears to have a new ignition switch.

First on the list is the forks. Coming from a TBS, I want to do whatever I can to bring the Legend forks up to TBS standards. Two products, Ricor Intiminators and Racetech Cartridge Emulators have been suggested. Anyone have any comments pro or con on either one? Where's a good place to buy them? Also, progressive springs were mentioned. Is that progressive with a capital "P" or are their other vendors I should be looking into? What about a source for seals?

What's the recommended product and process for polishing the wheels? Wax or clear coat to protect them?

The legend has a smaller back tire and larger front tire compared with the TBS. This translates into more trail. The front tire is due for a change (6 years old). I'm thinking of putting on the smaller tire from the TBS. Any thoughts? Are there different speedometer drive gears? (Not that it'll make that big of a difference...)

Anyone found a good product for restoring the black plastic housings for the switches on the handle bars?

More to come...
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#2 ·
303 Aerospace protectant did a good job on my black/plastic bits. Lasts for Months that way. Also could try Trimshine by Stoner, I use that on car stuff, never tried it on the bike but seems like it would work.

When I asked about Ricor vs Racetech, either IRLMike or ArferBrick was very passionate about Ricor. I have Racetech and progressive (ie, not linear) front springs on my Trophy and its real real nice (came to me that way, I didn't choose the parts). I never got around to doing anything to the Legend, life's been in the way.

No input on the rest of your stuff, though I'll be interested in your answers.

The popping you posted about in your other thread, I had that problem on my bike when the carbs were dirty and plugged up. I've never had bad valves so I couldn't tell you what that feels like.

Scott
 
#3 ·
I may just yank the carbs off the TBS and slap them on, but the shocks are so bad I really feel I need to do them before I ride it anywhere.

Which reminds me, does anyone know of a good source, other than a dealer, for fork seals and brake rebuild parts?
 
#4 ·
I put racetech gold valve emulators in my Sprint ST forks. They work well. It's pretty straight forward. I hope you have a drill press to drill out your damping rods. That's the only fabrication required with the GVE's. It makes sense to me. Open up the damping rod, and let the GVE do the metering. I haven't used the Ricor Intiminators, but it's my understanding they don't require you to drill out the damping rods. They do require a less viscous fork oil I believe. Racetech has straight spring rate springs in whatever weight you might need. I don't think they sell progressive (spring rate) springs. I've only removed the factory progressive springs and installed straight springs. Racetech also sells the seals and the bushings. You might as well change the bushings while you're in there.
 
#5 ·
I agree with the info posted. I don't have experience with the Ricor product but I believe both will give you excellent results:)
 
#7 ·
I haven't tried them, but I'd be very tempted by the Matris fully adjustable cartridge kit. That would take the Legend probably beyond the TBS spec forks. I'd go for a (linear) spring rate about 10% less than RT etc recommenced, for a bit more comfort over rough roads.

Otherwise, I prefer the Ricors to RT Emulators. I had both, was disappointed with the emulators.

If fitting Ricors and changing seals etc at the same time, I would drill the damper rods the same way RT requires fir their Emulators tho'. That way you can use thicker grades of oil if you want. I actually used a slightly thicker one from the off with the Ricors - Silkolene ProRSF 5W - since the Ricor suggested Amsoil isn't available here, and I'd already drilled the damper rods. The Legend already has progressive (dual rate) springs stock. I'd continue with them unless you are a lot heavier than average.
 
#8 ·
I would drill the damper rods the same way RT requires fir their Emulators tho'.
Anyone have the instructions handy?

Looks like Ricor's, seals, bushings and stock springs. I'm not heavier than normal; if anything I'm smaller overall (one reason to move from the TBS...)
 
#9 ·
#42 ·
Uh-Oh! ???



I decided to go with a Pilot Power 3 on the front. The rear can wait for a bit. The new tire doesn't have a balance mark. Is that because it's so perfect? ;) Anyhow, while researching the balance mark I stumbled on this:

1. MICHELIN PROHIBITS THE USE OF INNER TUBES IN:

• MICHELIN® Power SuperSport™ radial performance tires

• MICHELIN® Pilot® Power, Pilot® Power 2CT and Pilot® Power 3 performance street radial tires

• MICHELIN® Pilot® Road 3 and Pilot® Road 2 sport touring street radial tires

Boldly going where no fool has gone before!
 
#14 ·
OK, apparently there were 2 different forks used with a break around serial number 93000. Mine is the early one. I think (could be wrong here) that the early ones are Showa and the later KYB. Seals, bushings, etc. are all different part numbers between the two. Does anyone know for sure if the Ricor's will fit both? There was no reference to serial number or anything else, just "damper rod" forks.
 
#15 ·
Yes, they will fit both as they just sit on top of the damper rods.

You can see the drilling pattern I used for the RT emulators on this instruction set:

http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Emulator Fitting

Total of 6 holes in 180 deg pairs, 8mm drill. It's not that critical for exact location, or even size, as all its doing is making sure that the holes' resistance to flow is insignificant compared to the RT Emulators (or Ricors).

HTH ?

If changing springs I would keep at least 10% lower than RT and others' recommendations for average road use. (Even less for rough roads.) Many factory stock springs are half or 2 thirds RT's rates.
 
#17 ·
Got the forks off today. It wasn't easy; they were glued in by melted headlight grommets...

Anyone have a spare fuse box cover? Mine's missing and it's apparently not available separately.

Would have done more but I had to change a rear tire on a Vulcan for a friend.
 
#18 ·
OK, I think the forks I have are made by Showa. Triumph doesn't list the lower bushing as a replacement part, but I gotta think someone has a replacement available. Anyone have any ideas where to look? These forks, or a very similar one must be used elsewhere...

TIA
 
#19 ·
Those lower bushes were never listed in the parts fiche, but you can buy the ones for the Kayaba type and trim them down - by about 5mm iirc. Tho this size of bush was probably used on other bikes as well.
 
#21 ·
It was at that point that I decided to do the ZX7R fork swap, so I didn't cut them. I'd guess a lathe would be best? Tho' I was probably going to hacksaw. Be sure to keep the clean edge uppermost on the forks, because it's this edge that catches to top bushes (in the sliders) to yank em out.
 
#22 ·
I may just reuse the old ones. The forks had no noticeable play before I yanked them out anyhow.

Next question:
I hear the Thruxton carb needles are a hot setup. Does this refer to the ~2004 Thruxton twin? As far as I can tell, they use the same needles as the 800 Bonneville, etc., yes? Is the Dynojet needle available separately? Any other hot prospects? Please supply part numbers! ;)
 
#23 ·
Well, this is taking forever...

Starting to put the front forks back together. I have Rincor Intimators (or whatever they are called) to go in. The stanchion tubes were pretty badly pitted. I filed off all the loose chrome bits and filled them in with JB Weld. Was going to add a layer of clear nail polish, but that didn't work too well. I may try thinning it out and re-doing it. Any suggestions? Gaitors should take care of the cosmetics.

"Made" a set of lower bushes from a KYB part, after making a fixture to hold them so I could cut them down to size. worked out pretty well.

Also, I stripped the clear off the lowers and polished them up pretty good. Any suggestions for what to recoat them with? I don't have spray gear, so it has to be rattle can or brush on. I may try clear coat for auto wheels, but I don't know how well it will adhere to bare aluminum.

Carbs are done, so next I guess it's on to the rear shock. Got one off a ZX6R, but I want to change the spring. I think I need a spring compressor. Any ideas there?

Is there anywhere that lists the available color combinations for the Legend? I'm not partial to the candy apple red that's on it now. May just go with the same black and yellow scheme I have on the TBS.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Well, this is taking forever...


Also, I stripped the clear off the lowers and polished them up pretty good. Any suggestions for what to recoat them with? I don't have spray gear, so it has to be rattle can or brush on. I may try clear coat for auto wheels, but I don't know how well it will adhere to bare aluminum.

Got one off a ZX6R, but I want to change the spring. I think I need a spring compressor. Any ideas there?
Since you went through the trouble of stripping and polishing the lowers keep them bare unless you can get them clear powder coated. If you keep them bare they won't be anymore difficult to maintain than the alloy wheels.

As for the ZX6R shock hold off swapping the spring, until you ride it a first. Installed one on my Adventurer and it feels right as it is. I weigh 230 with gear on, I usually carry a passenger and I haven't had any issues or bottoming out. The dampening ability of the shock is so good it makes up for the softer spring.

There wasn't a lot of color combinations for the Legend. There's the Cardinal Red, Obsidian Black and Imperial Green. They never came with two tone paint like the other bikes.

*** here's a link to the model year catalog

http://www.fedrotriple.it/agg_2007_09/1999_catalogo_classic_range.pdf
 
#25 · (Edited)
Finally getting around to putting the forks back together. I'm installing Rincor Intiminators, which take up about 5/8" of the spring. Shouldn't I shorten the spacer on top of the spring the same amount? I don't want to change the ride height and would rather not have to move the forks up in the triple clamps (don't like the way it looks). Should I cut the steel ones or make new ones out of PVC?
 
#26 ·
It probably won't make as much difference as you think since it will preload the lighter sprung section of the stock dual rate springs first.

But if you do make new out of PVC pipe, you *will* need to take account of the extra wall thickness and use a lower level of fork oil.
 
#27 ·
Mike, in regards to the fork oil, I don't think so.
Fork oil is measured with the springs in and the fork tubes fully compressed. The spring spacers aren't installed, and they reside in the airspace above the oil. I haven't serviced a lot of forks, but I don't recall having to allow for different spacer lengths (or thickness) as far as fork oil was concerned.
 
#29 ·
Doesn't matter... I cut the steel spacer. If I set the oil level with the Intiminator in place and the spring out I should be fine. Too much oil (or too little air) and the strut will hydrolock before it reaches full travel.
 
#30 ·
Blackbird is right, that was the reason. I used some heavy gauge alkathene water pipe and the wall thickness is significant. IIRC I calculated I needed something 10mm less oil level to maintain the stock air gap. The gap forms a highly progressive spring which effectively acts in the last part of the fork compression travel (ultimately hydrolock). If the forks hit that it has implications for stability and fork seals.

However, the steel spacer wall thickness isn't enough to matter.
 
#31 ·
Duh, springs out! I don't know where the springs in came from. Too early in the morning I think. Bit, I don't think I run my fluid levels so high that I need to worry about the volume of schedule 40 pvc vs steel tube. So far it hasn't been an issue. Better to be lucky than good, I guess.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blackbird
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top