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Nology or gill definitive answer?

8K views 38 replies 10 participants last post by  BIKERPIPER 
#1 · (Edited)
Howdy folks
Ive been reading up here and on the web elsewhere regarding nology v gill coils and while the majority say nology over gill there are some threads swearing by gill and one or two saying nology didnt live up to expectation . I know to a certain extent its all relative but is there a final verdict?

Ive just used up my spare coil thanks to burrenboyo here and there is one original left in situ which will probably go as the other two have now been replaced. Gill Coils all.

So im going to invest in a set just to have rather than get stuck. Im not interested in sticks at this point. The gill coils are 50e each and the nology workout at 62e. Are they worth the extra 12e .If so is there a preferred supplier in blighty/europe or the US for either?

As a side note:
Funny thing on replacing the coil yesterday everything went smooth, tick over reverted back to strong and normal, running is super smooth but the rev counter, while holding tough at and up to 75 mph at under 5000 revs , once i went above that it went bananas, again this morning, the same thing, but it seemed to settle down a bit this pm on the way home? Im presuming its vibration coupled with age. Its a 04 Tsport, not that old but old enough to rattle a bit i guess. It hasn't happened before now. Is it related do you think?
Cheers in advance friends for any feedback
Bill
 
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#2 ·
I upgraded from Gill coils to Nology coils a while back as an act of good preventive maintenance.
After a couple years (I think) I ran into troubles that I tracked back to my sparkplug wires.
A 3 wire set costing around 130 US, I opted for stick coils.
So, given a choice of A or B, I'll take what's behind door number 3 please.
 
#3 ·
Yeah, the tachos are a bit notorious for eratic behaviour as they get older, and sure, vibration is probably a factor. They could be fixed, but they were 'sealed for death' from the factory and it's a pita to try and break in and rebuild.

New Gill coils should, supposedly, now be made with improved materials, tho' I went with Nology some years back and they have been good, no problems.

The stick coil mod sounds a good, especially if still using original plug leads which might need changing, and are pricey. If you're confident doing some custom fitting, this is the economical option, and seems reliable so far by reports on here.

For stock leads, aside from a bit of degradation of the insulating rubber (showing up in wet weather) or corrosion at the coil terminal (just clean it off), what happens is the internal plug cap resistor weakens or fails (test using a multimeter) or the 'tang' which holds it on the plug terminal thread breaks off. In fact, the plug cap inside the rubber is just a standard, replaceable, NGK plug cap, tho' I'm b***ered if I can figure out how to fit a new cap into the boot.
 
#4 ·
Cheers for that lads. Yea i was thinking that gill would have updated their coils since back in the day .
Yea irlmike The tacho behaved today and i have no intention of trying to fix it. ill look on it as a 'feature'of this aging beauty. ;) there are a few things needs doing to it so money is a premium.
So nology is kicking it so far.. Any preferred dealer for either?
 
#5 ·
Got my Nology coils from newlevelmotorsports.com in US, scored a free pass on the Customs/VAT lol.. I just think of it as another Irish lotto :D
 
#8 ·
http://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/pv...ph-single-outlet-carb-models-only-15095-p.asp

PVL Ignition Coil Single Outlet Fits Triumph Models:

Replaces Triumph Coils 3 PVL 1290007

New PVL ignition coil to fit Triumph 900 Speedmaster, America, Thunderbird, Thunderbird Sport, Adventurer and Legend. Also fits Hinckley carb' models:
750/900 Trident, 900 Daytona, 750/900 Speed Triple, 900 Sprint, 900 Tiger & Scrambler.

This single outlet coil is produced in Germany by PVL (Manufacturer of Nology Coils) and will also replace Gill ignition coils used on these models.
These are made to accept the original plug leads.

Observe Nology coils and see if you can see this coils pedigree!.
 
#10 ·
Having moucho problemo logging on to the site.
I had that problem a couple days ago. I had to get the password from that email. I even upgraded my password before that, thinking they didn't send the email. Oh well, now I have these annoying ads playing stupid music.
 
#15 ·
So i went ahead and installed the nology coils yesterday.. Defo steadier idle and it feels more responsive but that could be a placebo effect.
However i have a problem i thought would be solved with the new coils and that is a loss of power for a second at a time as if someone is tugging the bike from behind. Its not constent but it hapoens every now and then... Seems to be ok over 80mph...
Very similar to a breather hose problem but its not that . Im hoping its just a sparkplug thang brought about by the dodgy coils although i did an infra red test on the pipes and they are all heating up at relatively the same temp. Middle one slightly higher but thats to be expected.. Dirt in the carbs could be another thought.. Im replacing the plugs this eve and will see if it cures the prob.
When It happened today i gave it a bit of choke to see if it was a fueling thing but it didnt make a differance.
Any suggestions?
Cheers lads
 
#16 ·
So i went ahead and installed the nology coils yesterday.. Defo steadier idle and it feels more responsive but that could be a placebo effect.
However i have a problem i thought would be solved with the new coils and that is a loss of power for a second at a time as if someone is tugging the bike from behind. Its not constent but it hapoens every now and then... Seems to be ok over 80mph...

Any suggestions?
Cheers lads
Have you checked your chain?
 
#17 ·
At what throttle, revs and gear is this happening?

Oh, and what airbox set up and jetting have you got?
 
#19 ·
It varies mike, low mid throttle , taking off after a stop and sometimes sitting at between 60 and 70.. Or Climbing to
80, through the gears from 2nd to 6th on occasion, shes fairly steady past 80.
Tore the ass out of it on the way home tonight at one point ,115mph to see if it would burn off any crap on the plugs or in the jets.. She was fine at that speed. On saying that on the way home tonight it only happened once and i throttled through it to 80 mph and she behaved all the way more or less . 40 mile commute. Airbox is stock but i replaced the air filter with a k&n( that was fun)! Stock jetting im presuming . The guy who had it before me didn't do anything to it. Dont know what stock is for this model though, im guessing 38 pilots and 98 mains.. Was thinking i should probably bring the mains up to 115 with the k&n filter. The filter is in it since end of january ... Im going to replace the plugs tomorrow anyway see if it makes a diff..
Btw mike cheers for the heads up re new level motor sports . Ordered the coils last wed arrived yesterday?
 
#20 ·
Yep, 38/98 is stock jetting. It won't need any jetting change for a K&N filter, but the airbox's seals are vital, as the stock airbox is very restrictive - lot of negative pressure in there.

I used 115 mains when I'd added a second (same size, 38mm) intake hole on the other side of the airbox (and disconnected the rear (left side panel) air chamber. Another guy I know used 120 mains with this set up, tho' he had stock needles, whereas I had Dynojet needles. (And contrary to the typical web borne 'expert' advice, some needles on our bikes absolutely *do* make a significant difference at full throttle.)

There is a slight flat spot on these engines generally around 4.5 to 5.5k rpm. Tho' it would be equally true to say they produce exceptional torque all thru' the rev, just not so much in this brief range.

Have you done any valve clearance checks or know the maintenance history? I'd be tempted to fit new plugs (and go for Iridiums) just in case.
 
#21 ·
Nice one Mike,
Yea i did valve clearance at 17,000m its all good and within the triumph remit. I have a service history on it. It gave a bit of trouble in the past and it was down to the ecu being knackered. The lads in kennedys motorcycles put a new gill ecu in two years back . Im hoping its not that again. If the plugs dont satisfy the glitch, ill check the seal around the box again. I put a sealer around it when bolting her back up and doc ble checked everything but it might be worth another look. I dont relish that job though !
 
#22 ·
So i put new plugs in last week been riding her all week. Huge improvement on bottom and mid range but still a wee burp between 75 and 80 mph at between 4,700 and 5,000 revs, but once on 80 mph and higher shes sweet. I bled the carbs last night to see if anything would show up but it was clear. I then drained them this morn before take off and she behaved all the way in. Im not expecting it to never come back but for now im happy. Interestingly enough, since i put the nology coils in the rev needle has calmed down and reverted back to normal!
IreMike do you have photos of your airbox adjustment .. Im thinking of going down that route?
Cheers for the heads up guys
 
#23 ·
Don't think I actually took any pics of the 'stage 1' airbox mods I did. It is literally just putting another, 38mm iirc, hole in the opposite side of the (front) airbox, thus doubling the intake area. Doesn't matter much if the rear airbox (resonant chamber) is left connected or not. I used 115 mains, but with DJ needles that I already had. Probably 40 pilots but can't remember. Met a guy in Austria with same airbox mod who was using 120 mains but he had stock needles - that's what I'd do. I don't think he shimmed the needles iirc.
 
#24 ·
Cheers mike
In my airbox theres a snorkel coming out if the box elbow joint type thing, stock but ill have to double check.. Ill go with the 120's 40 pilots are stock i think so ill leave them . Plenty of fun and games to be had, plus a new paint job as the previous owner put a ding in the tank and rust is starting at the tips of the mudguards front and back . Winter will be busy... ?
 
#27 ·
So that problem started up again through the gears . Flat spots in every gear at every speed a chugging as if someone is tugging the bike with a rope. It also now has caused a peculiar event when first start up with choke. Irregular power as if someone is reving it . It surges and reduces constantly. Climbing up
And down the revs . Im out of ideas . New coils, plugs, chain, oil and filter change . Next stop is taking the carbs out and checking for dirt and checking the jets for same.... What am i missing???? Would the k&n air filter i put in cause this , too much air??? I dont know... Gimme all you got...
 
#29 ·
If it went away then came back it can't be the K&N. Have you used a timing light to verify steady spark on all cylinders? Sounds like it might be missing on one or more cylinders. Could be a faulty igniter. I forget, have you verified the plug wires are good?
 
#30 ·
Good call on the wires i thought of that after i posted this and started searching for replacements on the web . I havent verified yet, going to spend a few hours looking tomorrow..

Re air leak, going to check seals again
They were all good but i didnt pay attention to the choke so ill look at that . Going to have another look at the air box also too many bolts for there not to be a
Leak... Great advice lads ..
 
#33 ·
That's how I checked my plug wires. I thought it was a good test.
My plug wires passed this test, yet I still had a bad wire when they got up to temperature.

After the bike is up to temperature, and you are experiencing the missing, remove a plug wire from the plug (hopefully the offending cylinder, but you can try them one at a time), and insert another plug into the plug wire and ground the outside of the sparkplug to see if the plug will fire. Lay the plug wire boot and plug on the top or side of the engine. Start the engine. If the spark plug is firing, you should be good. If the spark is coming out the side of the plug wire boot to the engine, replace the plug wire or do the stick coil mod, which is what I did.

This is the type of failure I had with my plug wires. I chased this gremlin for a while before I found the culprit. I did the resistance check on all the wires as WSC described, and the wires all had the same good resistance values, and they didn't change with manipulation. Only by getting the ignition to fire in a position that I could actually see the arcing of the spark from the boot of the plug wire was I able to determine the plug wire was bad.
Don't let a bad plug wire keep you off the road.
 
#34 ·
Usually if it is firing through the boot or insulation there will be a tiny black mark where it has failed. Another trick is to look at the bike, while it is running, in the dark. Makes it easier to see stray sparks. Of course, it's harder when the plugs are recessed deep into the cylinder head....
 
#35 ·
Have fun watching the spark past the rubber boot that seals the top of the plugwell.
 
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