Triumphrat

Mojoinco · 07-13-2008

Spring preload can be adjusted using the Ohlins tool (~$10). Just stop off at shops that sell sport bikes or accessories. I also moved my battery box up and back, then removed the spot welds and made the tab the right side cover screws into removable (I just loosen the single screw that attaches it to the frame, then swivel it out of the way. THEN you can make a full swing with the shock wrench. You also have to remove or modify the 2nd air box (I modified mine into the fairly popular tool box). The modification requires cutting off the 'snout', or air intake, then cut the top open for access & plug the air outlet (I just left my intake to the primary box open).

Otherwise: break out a long punch and a hammer. Save a nickel, spend a dime...poorly thought out solution from Triumph ($20 more to the customer and we could have had a remote adjuster).

ssevy · 07-21-2008

Thanks! I ordered the Ohlins tool - should be here tomorrow. Any idea for a starting point for the preload setting? I'm 205 lbs., ride 90% solo. My passengers are 140 lbs. I thought that I'd start at the halfway mark and go whichever way was necessary. The shock I got off ebay was very clean (it should have been for $75!), but I thought that I would wire brush the threads and use some light lube to make adjusting easier. Sound reasonable?

ssevy · 07-21-2008

Okay, the original legend shock came out through the bottom easy. The zx-11 shock had to be dropped in from the top, as its' larger spring circumference wouldn't go back in through the bottom. Got it in place, but now have two questions: the bottom yoke required four stainless steel washers on each side to take up the space in this wider yoke. That leaves almost no threads on the bolt. Longer bolt seems obvious, but the Triumph one has a grease fitting and a relief machined for keeping it lubed. I'm going to look for the Kawasaki one tomorrow, in hopes that it has a grease fitting. If not, should I go with any steel bolt that will fit, and just grease the snot out of it before I put it together? Also, the clearance between the coil spring and the steel curved brace at the rear bottom is now much less than with the Triumph shock. Does this angle/relationship change as the shock contracts, and can these two pieces come in contact as a result? If the space remains the same regardless of shock extension, no problem, but if it changes, it could be potentially hazardous. Thanks for any help!

ssevy · 07-22-2008

Well, I seem to have this thread to myself, but just in case anyone searches later, I'll add my experience. The zx-11 shock will fit a 99 legend, but the clearance is not generous, so it has to drop in from the top. I used four stainless steel washers on each side of the bottom yoke to take up the extra space, and got a longer bolt from Lowes which had the same thread, so the original nut was used (you could also get the bolt and nut for a 98 Kawasaki ninja 1100 from Bike Bandit). Since the original has a grease fitting, I just used a generous amount of grease on the bolt when I inserted it, and had no problems. I used a crowbar to lift the rear wheel when lining up the bottom bolt, and then just slid a car ramp under the wheel from behind to hold it in position (I had the bike on its' center stand). The preset rings have to be at least halfway down on the shock, or they will hit other parts on the frame, as the spring diameter is larger than the original. It really is not a difficult job, but some patience is required to get the larger shock in place.
How does it ride? The seat is a bit higher, but you immediately feel a firm and stable, but compliant ride. The bumps are handled much better, and although the spring is larger, it seems to flex more smoothly. Overall, a great improvement. Kudos to greg for the discovery! Oh yeah, I have a triumph legend shock with less than 4000 miles on it for anyone who wants to pay the shipping to get it. Like new

gregp · 07-22-2008

Good going, Ssevy! For now, I am happy with my ZX7 shock, but I will probably upgrade to a ZX11 shock as I carry a passenger often.
Thanks for the added information!

IrlMike · 07-23-2008

I came across this WP shock list that has shock lengths for various bike makes & models.

Maybe it would be useful to post it here ?

Uncle Bill · 08-02-2008

Works performance has a really good spec sheet as well. Just google their site and look for the street bike specs link. I'm studying this well as I have an "02 T'bird that rides like a hardtail. Does anyone know why the book says not to adjust the spring setting on the stock shock? I do most of my riding in or around the Berkshires where I've ridden down dirt roads that are smoother than some of the numbered roads. (Greg, tell me rt57 or 23 near Great Barrington doesn't beat the crap out of you!) I don't ride two-up but I'm a very portly mammal and I carry a lot of gear, so you can see where I need some help in the suspension area. I'm also looking into the seat and front forks next. (I think I've found solutions to both, will be back with results)

gregp · 08-03-2008

The stock shock has very short travel, and very heavy compression damping, hence the "hardtail" like ride. Replacing the stock (un-rebuildable) unit with any Japanese or aftermarket unit that will fit, will most likely yield a better ride.
I did mess with the spring preload on my stock shock, but it was never satisfactory. The only reason I can guess that the manual would ask you not to do it is that 1) if you loosen it too far, you might run the risk of the spring retainer falling out, and a subsequent collapse of the rear suspension, and 2) tightening it up too much may induce coil bind at some point.

ssevy · 4 Weeks Ago

Just to keep this info thorough, I'm posting my experiences with adjusting the preload about 3/4 of the way tight. I'm 210 pounds, and this setting is no good for solo riding at my weight. Every little surface irregularity was transmitted through the machine, and the mirrors even vibrated. I was originally set at about 2/3 of the way tight, and this was okay for me solo, but I did scrape on agressive turns with passengers. I'm going to try it turned back to the halfway point to see how it feels, and just be more conservative riding two up. I guess to have both solo and two up feeling great would require a shock with a remote adjuster, and I would need to jury rig the adjuster position to do that. Perhaps a Hagon has enough to do it alone, or maybe send this zx11 out for some valve work? Even with these problems, the zx11 is still much better than the stock Triumph shock. I'll try to post some photos showing the shock wound up to 75%, and a second one showing the tight clearance when it's installed.

Uncle Bill · 4 Weeks Ago

I'm a big guy, probably closer to you and a small passenger plus I usually have a lot of gear. Is the ride good when set up for two up riding as that's where I'd most likely need to set it? And what year and model did you end up using? I know it looks tight in the pics but did you have to do any mods for clearance and if so what?