Triumphrat

Dan_K · 08-20-2007

Hello everyone
I was riding home from work the other day when I noticed some oil on my clutch lever. Further investigation revealed that there was a leak coming from the mount point for the lever, not at the point of pivot, but at the point of movement, where the lever is connected to the reservoir (or whatever it connects to) by a rubber boot. I look at the brake side and it's the same set up, minus the leak, and with an intact and try boot. The clutch side boot appears to have a tear, but it's tricky to see in there. Can anyone tell me if that little boot can be replaced independant of the lever, or do I have to pick up the whole assemblage? I'll try and put some pictures up if I can get a good shot of the offending boot.

Thanks

Dan

KD5QOQ · 08-21-2007

I would say if it's leaking rebuild it.

See ref#3 in this link.

http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit...ADVENTURER.asp

Dan_K · 08-21-2007

Ok, that link is MONEY. Exactly what I was looking for! Now it shows the boot being part #11 on that list for $2.52, which is sweet, but are you saying that I should get part #3 as well? I just chatted with my cubicle mate and he said that #3 is the one that "does the work" so any troubles would likely be originating there and possibly leaking through the #10 washers. That sound about right? Also, in full disclosure, I have no idea (and can't tell by the diagram) where #3 *goes*... Does it live inside #1 (the main body) somehow?

Thanks!

Dan

Slinky · 08-21-2007

Not quite.. If the fluid is leaking from the banjo bolt then your leak is at the copper washers. This should not normally happen, unless the washers have been re-used at some point- or the bolt is loose.. Change the washers, torque it down and you should be fine.

A leak from this point does not indicate an internal problem with the piston seal.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan_K

Ok, that link is MONEY. Exactly what I was looking for! Now it shows the boot being part #11 on that list for $2.52, which is sweet, but are you saying that I should get part #3 as well? I just chatted with my cubicle mate and he said that #3 is the one that "does the work" so any troubles would likely be originating there and possibly leaking through the #10 washers. That sound about right? Also, in full disclosure, I have no idea (and can't tell by the diagram) where #3 *goes*... Does it live inside #1 (the main body) somehow?

Thanks!

Dan

KD5QOQ · 08-22-2007

Now I understand what you're asking and I think Slinky is right on the money.
But, if the leak is coming from the piston area then #3 is the way to go to rebuild the cylinder.
And yes that is what "does the work" inside.
So, yes it does "live inside#1".
It's an easy rebuild if that is what you need.

Dan_K · 08-22-2007

Right on guys. I'll hit those washers and see if that does the trick, if not then I'll get a new #3. Now for those washers, do I need the "real" washers for this or can I go to Home Depot and get something the same size?

KD5QOQ · 08-22-2007

Bring your old ones to just about any motorcycle or hydraulic dealer.
Banjo fittings are VERY standard.

Slinky · 08-22-2007

You have to use washers which will squash down when they are tightened. Banjo bolt washers are normally copper. Any auto parts store should have them in stock.

I think the size is 10mm but I can't swear to it.

When you remove the bolt you will lose a little fluid. Don't let any of it drip, it eats paint. It's best to leave the lid on the master cylinder as this creates a partial vacuum and it should minimise fluid loss.

When you are done, you will need to bleed the system to get air out.

KD5QOQ · 08-22-2007

Yup, what Slinky just said and I wish I remembered the auto parts house first.
Slinky, you, you, you're good. (Robert DeNiro's voice)

Dan_K · 08-22-2007

Handy handy. I'm stopping by NAPA today for an oil filter anyway. I'll see if they can hook me up. A buddy has a bleeding vaccuum so maybe this weekend I'll get to it. Thanks for the help fellas.
Dan