Triumphrat

mellowi

I have a 1999 Adventurer that I am looking to improve the power of from bottom to ***O. I have already opened the airbox on each side and installe staintune exhaust tips. I have not rejetted since opening up the airbox and of course it is running super lean. I have the complete head off of a t595 on the way wich I intend to use the cams and springs out of. My questions are:

1 Should I go to a 3-1 exhaust manifold or can I use a old sprint manifold and keep the staintunes? I understand that going the sprint route means replaceing the water pipe but I would prefer the look of the dual exhaust.

2 Where can I find the unrestricted intake manifolds? Triumph has stopped producing them and is substituting them with the restricted rubbers.

3 I have read that as far as jetting goes I should use the thruxton needles with 40 and 110 jets for the set up I am looking for but these were fairly old threads. Any new ideas?

4 How much of this should I attempt on my own with minimal experience? I have a 98 TBS to ride while this is torn down but I would like to finish it eventually.

BadMouth

I'm runnin' 955 cams. Far from the final setup, but getting there.
My $.02 where it appies:

The people on this board who have extracted the most power and torque have used a 3 into 1, but that doesn't mean the sprint manifold won't work. I just installed a Thunderbike 3 into 1 and the torque is much better than the OEM, OEM w/ TOR's, D&D 3>3's that I've tried before. I wish I'd just skipped all the other setups and bought the Thunderbike pipe to begin with.

Depends on how much hacking you do to that airbox and what pipe you go with.
I'm running 142.5 mains, 42 pilots & Factory Pro Needles on the center clip at the moment (Kehein). I've still got some work to do in the midrange before I get it dyno'd. I know they sound like huge jets, but it was lean with 137.5's and it actually ran fine on 147.5's! I'm using offroad K&N pods for the moment, but at interstate speeds, their performance varies depending on where I position my legs. I'll probably go back to the Trophy airbox. I know those jets sound huge, but I've run 137.5's with a completely hacked Tbird airbox, K&N, and D&D 3>3 for most of this year, including a 2,000 mile trip and a couple 600 mile weekends. Plugs still look good.

I've done all this with knowledge gained from this board and no prior experience. Sometimes I worry about my amateur cam install, but I haven't found any shavings in the oil yet, so I guess all is good.

mellowi

Where would you recommend buying the jets and factory pro needles and about how much should they cost?

Does anybody have a rearsubframe for the Adventurer? The previous owner had a couple of low speed drops and I have not been able to straighten it out. This causes the obvious difference in exhaust pipe height when viewed from the back.

One last question, has anyone tried to adapt a daytona single sided swing arm to one of the classics? Just seems like that would be a pretty neat trick.

BadMouth

The factory pro kit is around $130 and you'll throw away everything in it but the needles. I'd see how good you can get it with the stock or thruxton needles first. They may do just as well. I paid $2 each for used jets last time at my local dealer.

Also forgot something about those 955 cams- make sure the gears have 38 teeth, or they won't work. I'm not sure what year the change occured (somewhere around 01-02).

This is the only single sided swingarm on a classic that I've seen. It's from an italian website. www.gallimoto.com
I don't know what's involved. Something tells me it's not bolt-on.

jimmyj900

Put on any exhaust pipes you can get other than the stock 2:1-1:1 system and you'll feel it at about 6,000 rpm and above.

I'm currently running a set of 3:1 pipes that came off a '98 Speed Triple, but I think they're aftermarket since they have no ega screws or oxy sensor port. I've got them hooked up to a high-flow home-made prototype muffler.

The cams are 885 Sprint parts and the airbox is a Trophy/Tiger/Sprint piece without the snorkels.

My current Keihin CVK carb settings are given below but I haven't done any fine tuning as yet. There still seems to be a rich spot at around 4500 so I may need to reduce the mains slightly although that might pull some power off the top end.

BTW, my tuning log says this is the 42nd jetting setup this year, so you might want to reconsider getting into the whole mods and tuning thing...

Mains – 130 K
Pilots – 38 K
Needles – FP, bottom notch
Slide Port – drilled to 3.0mm from stock 2.5mm
Mix Screws – 2.25 turns approx.
Float Height – 11/16 inch

I drilled the slide ports due to an excessive lean condition at about 4,000 rpm. It seems that the longer duration 'blue' cams produce much lower carb velocity at low rpms and the slides don't rise as high, so the engine will go lean with the 2.5mm slide port -- even with the FP needles set to the highest position.

The enlarged slide port also makes the engine very sensitive to pilot jet size and it runs too rich at small throttle with a #40 pilot. The mixture screws were useless with the #40s and it was impossible to set the idle mixture. With the #38 pilots the small throttle settings are smooth and surprisingly potent. The transition from small throttle to large throttle is also quite smooth.

I don't recommend drilling the slides unless you've got a major problem as I had.

WOT operation is somewhat excessive from about 5000 rpm up where the exhaust seems to do it's best scavenging, but the apparent 5K 'blast' may be the result of mixture normalization after a rich condition coming off the back side of the 4K lean spot.

The Thruxton needles are nearly identical to the FP needles on the highest setting and useful if you open the filter box or install a Trophy box.

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