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Old 06-16-2007   #11 (permalink)
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Oops! Look at this pic in my album - the idler gear is actually two in one. You're counting the larger one? Can you see or feel the smaller one, the one the sprag engages on?



[ This message was edited by: parrycm on 2007-06-16 09:35 ]
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Old 06-16-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Hi Guys,
Good thread. I have a trident with a blown motor with a new sprag and a six speed in it. I have a 95 TB motor which is said to be low miles ready to go into it. I'm having trouble making up my mind weather to just put the TB motor in and see how it runs, or to pull the bottom off the motor and swap over the sprag, transmission and gear selectors. Knowing there are different parts has got me concerned. I will try and count the teeth. Is it true that I have to file the cases to make a new sprag fit? It's scary that parts in Oz are even higher than in the U.S.

Steve

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Old 06-16-2007   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2007-06-16 09:33, parrycm wrote:
Oops! Look at this pic in my album - the idler gear is actually two in one. You're counting the larger one? Can you see or feel the smaller one, the one the sprag engages on?
OK, gotcha. I'll have a look.
Thanks
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Old 06-16-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Is it true that I have to file the cases to make a new sprag fit?
The talk about filing the cases to make the sprag clutch fit applies only to very early model engines which had an access plate. On a 95 TB it's very unlikely that you have that access plate so the only way to access the sprag is to split the cases.

That access plate is clearly visible on the right side of the engine below the right carb. On your 95, you can probably just see a bulge.
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Old 06-17-2007   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2007-06-16 09:33, parrycm wrote:
Oops! Look at this pic in my album - the idler gear is actually two in one. You're counting the larger one? Can you see or feel the smaller one, the one the sprag engages on?
No. That's not going to work. Can't see or feel anything, so its rip it all out and count them before ordering.

Ah well, so be it. I was hoping to have all the bits and do the job all at once.

Thanks for your help Chris and everyone else. I'll keep you posted.
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Old 06-17-2007   #16 (permalink)
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Here is a link that I'd gotten from an earlier thread on failed sprag starter clutchs that shows step-by-step photos of the replacement process.

I found these photos to be very useful when replacing my sprag a while back.

Sprag replacement photos

Note: I didn't take these photos - but many thanks to the fellow T-bird owner that did.

[ This message was edited by: robsmoto on 2007-06-17 08:30 ]
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Old 06-29-2007   #17 (permalink)
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Well I've got the engine cases split and the sprag removed and ready for the new one to go in.

Question for anyone who's split the cases:
My big end bearings seem pretty solidly stuck in the lower case. Do I need to remove them and re-stick them in place?? Seems pointless to me.
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Old 06-29-2007   #18 (permalink)
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Hallo Robsmoto,

Thank you, for posting sparg clutch photos.

cheers jan.
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Old 08-02-2008   #19 (permalink)
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I had to revive this...

I just read through all the info on this thread... and I've got a lingering question.

I just picked up my bike from the dealer for it's 21k service. The service manager is a really good guy who has given me some great advice. When I got her back, he said everything was great... some air in the coolant lines that was fixed, new chain and sprockets, but otherwise, the bike's in great shape.

He gave me a forewarning that these bikes have sprag clutch problems (I knew about that)... though mine showed no symptoms at all.

Question is: for a '99 with 21k miles, have I "missed" this problem?
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Old 08-02-2008   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoDice View Post
He gave me a forewarning that these bikes have sprag clutch problems (I knew about that)... though mine showed no symptoms at all. Question is: for a '99 with 21k miles, have I "missed" this problem?
You should be OK with a '99. It was the earlier models that had the weaker sprags.

Keep the battery in excellent shape, keep the bike tuned and always start with the trans in neutral and the clutch in and you should be fine.

Jim

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