Triumphrat

08-01-2004

Ok, I know this topic has been hit many times. However, no responses I have seen address this. Would it be ok to run auto Mobil1 full synthetic (15/50) versus motorcycle formula? cost is quite signfificant and I cannot imagine there are significant differences that are gonna harm the engine. Am I wrong?

Jodel · 08-01-2004

I'm not a chemist, so can only go on what I've read. Personally, I've always used motorcycle specific oil.

As far as I know, the biggest difference between auto/motorcycle oil are the friction reduction additives in auto stuff - which is probably not a good idea with a wet clutch. I also understand that the shear forces generated in a motorcycle gearbox are something auto oils are not designed to cope with.

BTW: I have a Rotax engine (with a gearbox) in my light aircraft and the manufacturer recommends the use of full synthetic motorcycle oil. Since my 'plane only has one engine and I'd quite like it to keep running I follow the manufacturers advice - as I do with my Triumph.

You pays your money.......

j98sprint · 08-01-2004

Like Jodel, I'm not a chemist. But from the experiance of 6 years and over 67,000 miles on my Sprint 900 I have had no problems using (auto) Mobil 1 15w-50 fully synthetic oil.

No clutch slippage what so ever. I change it between 4 and 5 thousand miles. Bike runs great. Get it at any auto parts store for under $5 a quart.

Maybe I'm just lucky and everyone else who uses Mobil 1 auto oil gets clutch slippage and oil breakdown....but I don't think so.

It's a free country, do what ever makes you happy.

j98sprint

08-01-2004

well, this is great..too equallly valid points. I guess do whatever feels right. Yea, part of me wonders if it is just marketing because I tend to feel the auto oil would work just as well and protect as good...

mecscc · 08-01-2004

If the little API logo says "energy conserving" (ie: contains friction reducing additives) in the circle, my rule of thumb is don't use it with a wet clutch. If it doesn't, use it.

Monte

Diego · 08-01-2004

Quite right, Monte. A person doesn't have to just flip a coin or "do what feels right." The API energy conserving logo is the motorcycle equivalent of "leaves of three, let it be" for avoiding poison ivy.

For every current Triumph engine up through and including the Rocket III, the spec is any semi or fully synthetic 10W/40 or 15W/50 motorcycle* engine oil meeting API SH or higher and JASO MA specs. (*The 'motorcycle' designation, as a practical matter, means only without those friction additives.) Any oil meeting those specs ought to be fine.

Even if it doesn't cost $60/gallon.

Wombat · 08-01-2004

The Mobil 1 with the GREEN CAP is the 'energy conseving' version and should be avoided like the plague.

Mobil 1 full synth oil with the RED CAP is what I am using in my TBS with no problems.

If the truth be told Mobil 1 RED CAP and MX4T is probably the same thing in a different container.

08-01-2004

I am a vendor to several of the M/C OEM's. i provide them oil sold under there brands. I will get my hands on Mobil 1 and have it compared to couple of other labels in the marketplace today. It will take about 8 to 10 weeks so be patience.

DaleE · 01-06-2008

Dear previous poster,

I've been postponing a long-overdue oil change until I got to see your follow-up post, in which you laid bare, once and for all, this knotty oil issue. When might I expect it?

Wombat · 01-06-2008

I hope that you havent been holding off on your oil change since 2004 from whence you dragged up this old thread.