Triumphrat

rickj · 08-25-2006, 10:13 AM

The guys at Hermy's were real helpful-we came up with the following- just checking here to see that folks agree- mainly on the PN for the tor: (so many birds-so many pipes!)
TOR- A9608013
I'm gonna Buy jets- but hold off on the install till I see what things feel like (popping)
Jet-3)#40 for kehein (pilot)

He also said something about "unplugging the air screws to set the air?? Is that a parts need?

Opinions on K%N air kit? I really want to stay as stock as possible and have NO performance issues- I just want a more "assertive(?)" sound...

Thanks guys!

[ This message was edited by: rickj on 2006-08-25 08:13 ]

Tre900 · 08-25-2006, 10:23 AM

For a more assertive sound only I would personally have started with just drilling out the baffles of the stock pipes.

Rincewind · 08-25-2006, 10:40 AM

The air mixture screws are plugged from the factory. I don't believe you need a special tool to take out the plugs, though I wasn't the one to initially remove them from my bike.

Hermy's put a K&N in my airbox at my 6k service awhile back. I'm not sure it's really all that necessary.

According to their website, that's the right part number for the TOR's if your VIN # is 84563 or later.

rickj · 08-25-2006, 11:30 AM

Quote:

On 2006-08-25 08:23, Tre900 wrote:
For a more assertive sound only I would personally have started with just drilling out the baffles of the stock pipes.

I kinda want to keep the original pipes just in case! of course the other reason is I don't quite have the nerve yet to be taking drills to the bike-gimme some time- plus I have a few bucks to play with here- my cost was actually a little less than my saved up "bike fund" I just gotta figure out where to have the pipes sent- wifey doesn't completely "get" the bike fund concept!!

My first "mod" on my jeep was removing the bumper ends- 2 years later : new bumpers, control arms, transfer case rebuild, shocks, led tail lights- sawzall to the body- etc etc- I'm trying to start carefully- don't worry man- soon enough I'll be into Tbirds guts- though I kinda wanna stay stockish- I hear resistance is futile!!

glgavin · 08-25-2006, 12:02 PM

The EPA required air screw plugs are removed by taking the carb bank off the bike to gain access to the plugs. They are usually pierced with a drill bit so a pick or similar tool can be inserted into the plug to pry it out. The screws are then set at about 3 1/2 turns out. A gas analyzer is used in each exhaust pipe to adjust the air fuel ratio. There are small bolts in the down pipes that allow for that access.

The K&N filter allows less restricted movement of filtered air to the carbs. In addition the filter can be removed and cleaned. Triumph had intended that you replace the air box and filter as a set. Some owners have cleaned the OE filter but I don't know if they had long term success. The one issue will K&N is, once cleaned, reapplying an adequate amount of their oil. I over did it and clogged my carbs up.

I purchased my jets from Wilcox in the UK who sold a modification for the TBS based on their testing for Triumph. The changes consisted of the TORs, K&N filter, adjusting the air screws and changing the main jets to 96. Please note that this is the opposite direction in size than everyone else does. The pilot is 38.

Changing to the TORs alone will, IMHO, improve the sound. Especially on acceleration. Adjusting the air screws will control the popping on de-acceleration. To meet EPA standards the engines are running very lean. The engine will always burble on de-acceleration.

[ This message was edited by: glgavin on 2006-08-25 10:11 ]

Mojoinco · 08-25-2006, 01:26 PM

I do want to see what your sawzall results are...

:hammer:

MickMaguire · 08-25-2006, 02:31 PM

take a look here:

This is the plug removal process. Enlarge the hole, set a sheet metal screw and pull put. Be very very carefull not to drill through the cap and hit the brass adjuster screw below. If you do it will shag up the adjuster.

Once you have this done set the screws to 2.5-3 turns from fully seated (lightly does it dont overtighten), then refit the carbs. You dont need to refit the air screw plugs they are only there to (try to) stop you adjusting the mixture.

We will eagerly await the cussing that will follow when you remove and refit the carbs for the first time :wink:

P.S. A tip there is to disconnect the cables at the bars rather than at the carbs themselves. It saves a lot of fiddling - you can then disconnect them from the carbs once they are clear of the bike.

[ This message was edited by: MickMaguire on 2006-08-25 12:56 ]

rickj · 08-25-2006, 04:49 PM

Thanks- I feel better about getting to it!!- Pipes and adjusting first- jets and air later -or not!

[ This message was edited by: rickj on 2006-08-25 16:42 ]