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Old 07-05-2004   #1 (permalink)
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Super Sidecars
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: London (UK)
Posts: 51
Okay tried this via the maintenance section, but must've phrased everything badly - so I'll try again.

I have a 95 t-bird which I am delighted with, and I am no mechanic, but (although rusty) I can still find my way from fuel tank to exhaust.

Anyway, being Mr Paranoid (who can't believe he might've actually bought a bike that isn't a pup - nothing to do with makers, just I have been a right Pratt with some of my previous purchases) I am a) trying to understand as much as I can about my new bike, whilst b) making sure everything runs as it should.

So any help getting me back into the fold of basic bike workings 101 would be muchly appreciated.

Fuel/spark seems basically okay, although I believe she is running a little rich (fuel consumption isn't as good as half the posts on that thread) and plugs are a little sooty.
She has Mikuni's & I found the idle screw & drain plug, but not the mix screw?

Spark is good on the whole, as is power and response, but she doesn't seem to like the damp, twice now during/shortly after showers (as in typical 5 minute London downpours) she has got a little stuttery/weak on either 2 or 3 - ideas?

Plus for the life of me I can't see how I get that OEM plug spanner in the no2 hole ?? even with tank off/what obvious trick am I missing? (so I can feel an even bigger idiot)

Next: I got to the cooling system, and thanks to threads here I tested the fan, checked my coolant level etc.,
But I haven't worked out how to test the fan switch yet, and would also like to know if there is a way to test the pump (without a major mechanics degree) because although I guess it is all working fine I would just like to be sure

lastly: I read with concern the threads on alternator rattle, and again Mr paranoid took over - I checked the masses of receipts I got from previous owner and she appears to have had an alternator mod kit fitted 4 years ago - but, on idle she does seem to rattle quite a bit down in that area, and it definitely eases if you apply the brake light etc., (also am getting thumb throttle hand - but that could be me hanging on too tight) what I would like to know is - could I still have a problem there and what is the best way to check??

I will get myself a Haynes at next opportunity, and I will probably throw her into the local dealer to get her checked over, but I would kinda like some advanced info before i do (cos I can't afford blank cheques)

as I said ANY help/info would be gratefully received.

ta

Silk



[ This message was edited by: Silk on 2004-07-05 10:51 ]
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Old 07-05-2004   #2 (permalink)
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Favorite Bike: 98 Thunderbird
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Surrey, UK
Posts: 2,010
Other Motorcycle: 91 Zephyr 750
The pilot screws are at the the front of the carbs, on the bottom centre. They are recessed so you won't actually see them. The centre one is a ***** to get to.

Missing in the damp is not normal. Mine has done some long journeys in torrential rain and never missed a beat. That probably does not help you much, but at least you know it's not normal.

The centre plug can be "entertaining". Not so bad once you get the knack. You might find it easier to use a socket & ratchet over the plug wrench.

The fan hardly ever comes on- mine has been on maybe twice in two years, once stuck in London traffic and the other time in the garage when I was balancing the carbs. I suspect running hot is not really an issue with our typical weather.

You could test the fan switch by heating it up, either in-situ with a hot air gun or by suspending it in water with an ohmeter attached. At 98c or thereabouts the switch should operate.

I doubt if you need to worry about the coolant pump- it's mechanical and very unlikely to go wrong.

I can't really help with the alternator bolt thing, other than if you are really paranoid pull the alternator and check it. It's an easy job.
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Old 07-05-2004   #3 (permalink)
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Great stuff Slinky, thanks!

Okay, some sort of short angled driver recommended for carbs - at least I know where to look now (yet another use for that dentist mirror I use for checking oil

Will have another crack at the centre plug - basic metric socket set now on birthday wish list, along with replacement torque wrench (don't ask)

Thanks for the re-assurance on the mechanical pump - . might check the switch as you suggested - just in case, agree in good old blighty weather is unlikely to get over hot - but London traffic a common occurrence for me (another reason I came back to a bike)

mmm. not so happy about the possible damp problem - I guessed it twern't normal - reading another thread suggests I might have a 'thingy' missing I will pop over to Boyers and sneak a look at their t-birds on Friday -

But are the ignition coils/wiring on right underside side of tank supposed to be that exposed?

Probably just me, but it seems a bit messy in comparison to rest of wiring & quality of build in general. I also noted the connections to coils weren't exactly tight - I even accidental disconnected one when removing the tank (and I wasn't exactly yanking at it - in fact quite the reverse)

Methinks next item might be general checking of connections and some light dispersant might be in order - I hope that is all it is cos otherwise will be bloody hard thing to test properly as it is almost intermittent -
I've been caught in rain half a dozen times (already - as would be expected), but she has only stuttered like that twice -
The first time I pulled over and a few rev's (while I checked the bleeding obvious like Is the fuel tap on?) seemed to clear her - Then yesterday she did it, after she was parked outside a friends (and it dropped the sky on her)
I checked the exhaust (for pressure) which is how I know it was 2 or 3 but all three downpipes were about same temp - So I switched her off and tweaked the coil/HT connections again looking for obvious stuff - but they seemed okay so I started her up for further diagnostics and she was fine - I am only saying damp cos that was the one thing that I could attribute to both occurrences.

And yes I am paranoid - just me I guess - sometimes reminds me of an old OGRI cartoon with Malcom panicking about the slightest rattle I ain't quite that bad, but when you've been left in the middle of no-where with no phone and a 20 mile hike to the nearest house - because of something you probably should've noticed - (maybe not, but you always wonder) it kinda leaves a mark on you.

slightly off topic, but I note by the book of receipts that the recent services were done by a BMW dealer, and to be honest some of the re-routing here and there was not exactly how she was meant to be (even my untrained eye could see that). Silly little things I know - but things that stand out when you are paying attention to detail & I still had to re-do them myself anyway (i.e. choke cable not sat in the proper seats on the carbs, messy routing of HT leads etc., ) If she'd been mine when they were done I would've had a thing or two to say to the mechanic involved.

but thanks again mate and sorry to be a BOF - I owe you a coffee
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Old 07-05-2004   #4 (permalink)
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Extra Motorcycle: '72 Tiger/'96 Tbird (WIP)
The "running bad in the damp" problem is most possibly due to a bad ignition coil. When it occurs again, look at the coils under the fuel tank with the engine running, you might be able to see sparks running along the edge of one of the coils. Or you could give them a hand by spraying a bit of water on them yourself, and see it the problem occurs.
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Old 07-06-2004   #5 (permalink)
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Favorite Bike: 98 Thunderbird
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Surrey, UK
Posts: 2,010
Other Motorcycle: 91 Zephyr 750
Ah the coil cover "thingie".. Early bikes did not have one, it was an optional extra. Later bikes had them as standard. They are pretty cheap- I bought one for my 98 and it does clean the area up. And it does keep some damp away from the coils. It sounds like you need to tighten up the coil connections with a pliers.

The BMW dealer you mentioned was not Hughendon by any chance? When I got my bike they had stamped the book for the 6000 mile service. When I lifted the cam cover at 15000 miles to check the valves, I found a shim removal tool left inside the engine.
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Old 07-06-2004   #6 (permalink)
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@ Osara - Thanks I was heading pretty much the same way - have 'nicked' the wifes plant mister to do just that

@ Slinky - Thanks for the info on the thingy, I will see if I can get one on my next day off (Friday) and Yes it was Hughenden (spooky) - I just hope the most serious thing they did to mine was re-arrange the wiring - no where near as serious as your experience, but still shoddy workmanship (IMO) - I take pride in my work, & in a former life I used to hand make looms (including hand lacing) so to me it is one of those irritating little things that I personaly can't abide.

Thanks for the help - you lot are a lot more approachable than other forums I have known. I'll let you know how I get on - now I just need to find some time - bosses don't
appear to appreaciate that my Bird should outweigh their demands for me doing some actual work

Silk
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Old 07-07-2004   #7 (permalink)
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Triumph list a spark plug removal tool.
Your local dealer can order it for you. Its a thin walled box spanner, it will also cost you a fortune, think i paid about £11.
take the tank off drop the spanner down the plug hole then you can just get a standard 3/8 socket and ratchet on it.
I found that after refitting and torquing that the box spanner was now a pain to remove so drilled two small holes at the end where the 3/8 socket is used, this enables the use of a small pick to flick the plug spanner up.
Sometimes I use a extension to bring the ratchet above the main frame.
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Old 07-07-2004   #8 (permalink)
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Just like you said Motizab, and add a wobbly adapter to the extension to give more flexibility.

Ride safe

Bob
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