Triumphrat

crosstie

Mine were at 2-1/2, 1-1/2, and 1/2... does that mean I need to tune and adjust those individually after replacing the jets, or is it better to set them all at the same level?

In 1st it dips around 5K, in 2nd around 6K, and in 3rd & 4th around 3800 - but only if I have the throttle at least 3/4 open... and if I give it more gas it powers through the lull and picks back up again as the revs go up.

Well, I got 120s going by the 'ClassicTuning 10A' document... I'll see how it goes and report back!

Absolutely - e-mail or pm me about them if you've got the time.

Thanks Jim!

__________________
~Crosstie

'99 Speed Legend Retro Cafe Streetfighter

Slinky

I'd like to see them Jim, how about asking Mick or Shawn to put them on the site in the downloads section?

You mentioned a 13:1 air/fuel ratio, I always thought 15:1 was suposed to be optimum. I'm not questioning your judgement, just curious why you went for that figure. I expect the 15:1 is a compromise between power & economy and 13:1 is better for all out power?

__________________
"You can't fly with the eagles if you keep scratching with the turkeys."

jimmyj900

Crosstie -- I'd say set the mixture screws at 1 turn and leave them there. It takes an exhaust gas analyzer to set them at a dealers and then it seems to be used partially to compensate for the mixture variations induced by carb balance variations.

You can use the mixture screws to richen the low rpm mixture, but changing the pilots is a much more consistant and reliable method.


Power Dips -- >>In 1st it dips around 5K, in 2nd around 6K, and in 3rd & 4th around 3800 - but only if I have the throttle at least 3/4 open... and if I give it more gas it powers through the lull and picks back up again as the revs go up. <<

I thought you were talking about full throttle -- my mistake. The flat spots you're finding are related to throttle position, load and rpm. Most riding is done at low throttle openings where you're running on the pilot jet, mixture screws and the transfer ports rather than the main jet and needle.

Getting the mixture sorted out for full throttle takes care of a good part of that, and then you may want to open the mixture screws a bit to compensate for part throttle situations.

Classic Tuning 10A is a temporary verison to replace a really old version that was here. In the "11" version I'm getting rid of the partial airbox changes -- not worth the hassles involved.


Slinky -- 14.7:1 is the "ideal" mixture for air and fuel that completely combusts the fuel and leaves no residual oxygen.

The "max power" mixture is around 12.7:1 and slightly rich compared to the "ideal" mixture, so 13:1 is a good value to shoot for.

Mixtures in the range of about 16:1 to 12:1 don't produce huge differences in torque output and you really don't need to get into micro-adjustments unless you're racing. Then you need to start calculating for temperature and humidity effects and make jet changes every time you run. Doesn't make sense for a street bike.

Dyno Data -- At the moment it's kind of complicated looking and confusing, but I'll be getting the data on disc and can re-plot the runs so they'll be clearer and make more sense.

Each plot has torque/hp/mixture data for at least two runs on it and the most interesting of the lot (stock vs. modded) has no mixture data at all but torque and hp curves for four runs.

I'll e-mail locations for the run data and some explanation so it will make a bit more sense.

Jim

__________________
Note: This post may have been altered without the knowledge or consent of the author.

http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/k...0Head%20Stuff/