Grand Prix 500
Main Motorcycle: '99 Triumph Adventurer
Join Date: Apr 2012
Other Motorcycle: '91 Honda XR250L
|Hinckley Classic Triples 885cc Classic Styled T3's: Legend, Thunderbird, Thunderbird Sport & Adventurer.|
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It sounds like you have a good idea. Keep in mind what you want to accomplish. If you are getting proper jet sizes and needle positions, would you install different jets in different carbs due to a different reading between the headers? If not, then one is probably good enough.
It would be interesting to get readings from the bung you install, then take the sensor and put it in the muffler exit and see what difference you get, if any.
One idea that MIGHT be worth checking is an adapter for the CO sniffer bung. If the sensor does not have to be right in the stream, that might be good enough. The ratio of the different gases is probably going to be the same just outside the stream, within an adapter, as it would be within the stream.
Another thing would be to simply replace the CO sniffer bungs with the larger O2 sensor bungs. If you ever needed to use CO you could presumably get an adapter to go the other way. This is assuming your CO bungs are not being used...
It might be an idea for someone to buy one of these and rent it out to others on the forum so they can get their jets right, assuming a muffler reading is good enough. 3 or 4 rentals might pay for the thing.
Perhaps only some kind of sensors work that way. I did not dream this up myself; I got it out of the manufacturer's manual. Presumably they would know. I have to admit some doubts myself, i.e.
1) Will the pipes melt the sensor wire insulation?
2) Will the diameter of the sensor even fit, or if it does will it create unwanted back pressure?
... and so forth. So I will just have to see how this goes. I will let you know.
Something struck me as wrong about this. Today, in a flash of insight, I thought I had it. After doing a little research. I'm convinced it will not work. As it turns out, the O2 sensor works by comparing the O2 content of the exhaust to that of the atmosphere. To that end, the external part of the sensor has to be exposed to atmospheric air. How it would work shoved up the tail pile escapes me.
|Checked their on-line support info and didn't find a statement to that effect,|
The manual says, "Alternatively, you can also use the optional exhaust clamp (part number 3728) to sample exhaust gases at the end of the tail pipe." See page 5:
Since the thing really doesn't fit in the end of the muffler anyway, I may try to make a small adapter, a short piece of pipe, that fits into the hole and have the sensor mounted to it at right angles which would keep the outside of the sensor in the air stream rather than inside the pipe. That would take care of any problems you mention (assuming there are any) and allow me to easily switch between the two pipes. Only other things I'm wondering about are 1) air leaks at the muffler/pipe junction, and 2) is the sensor designed to run hot, and would it have trouble heating up enough (since they mention end of pipe readings this seems unlikely to be an issue).
Ah, on reading the link you supplied it says the sensor has a heater to make the temp correct, so I don't have to worry about that. I suppose I could use a little high-temp silicone to fill any holes at the pipe/muffler junction.
One other thing I wonder about is the reading procedure. Those charts you see, are they done with the engine in a no-load condition? Obviously, one has to open the throttle more with a load, than one needs to without a load, to maintain a given rpm. And the amount of load matters too. Different throttle openings translate into different carb circuits in use. I suppose a load is needed anyway to check the main jets as I don't think it is good for an engine to have the throttle pinned while sitting in your garage! I just need to find a place where I can get away with going that fast...
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