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Hinckley Classic Triples 885cc Classic Styled T3's: Legend, Thunderbird, Thunderbird Sport & Adventurer.

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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Legend blues

Hello everyone,
I am new here, and new to owning a 2000 triumph legend.
I have been lurking the forum looking for tips and help with most everything. The bike currently will not stay running unless the choke is about half way and when I throttle it up it sputters and and bogs down and stalls if I shut the choke off.
I have a feeling its something with the fuel or bad spark plugs.
please someone correct me if I am way off.
Also I can't seem to find this step by step photo thing for spark plug removal for triples that I read about in a post.

Thanks for any and all help in advance

Cheers
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 07:02 PM
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try starting it with the idle advance knob turned clockwise a couple turns. Its on the left side carb and it is a black knob. I have to use that to start my bike sometimes, and when it warms up the idle will jump way up and then you just turn the knob counterclockwise until the RPM's are around 1200
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 08:21 PM
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Ace Face View Post
The bike currently will not stay running unless the choke is about half way and when I throttle it up it sputters and and bogs down and stalls if I shut the choke off.
I have a feeling its something with the fuel or bad spark plugs.
These type carbs have a "fuel enrichment system" that is different from the traditional butterfly choke plate we all grew up with here in the US. Whereas a "choke" closes off the incoming air to the carb throat to create a rich mixture, the "fuel enrichment system" is a rather large auxillary fuel circuit drawn straight from the float bowl. Both sorta do the same thing but in entirely different ways yet both are commonly referred to as a "choke".

With your bike only running with the 'choke' on, it is being fueled only by the auxillary fuel circuit which implies that you are getting little to no fuel from your idle circuit. Most often this is the common problem of a clogged pilot jet that supplies your entire idle circuit. Falling with any advance of the throttle may also indicates there is insuffecient fuel supply to the transitional idle bleeds behind the primary/initial idle bleed.

303 has a point about the idle setting in that the throttle plate must be advanced enough to expose the first of the idle bleed holes. However, from my experience, giving the idle speed adjusting knob 'a couple of turns clockwise' would be just way too much... but I get his point. Perhaps too much to even start and if so, idle way out of control. As some sort of a reference, a cold summer start on mine without any 'choke' is nothing but a 1/4 turn clockwise to get it to light up with a 1,500rpm cold idle.

If I don't know the answer, I just make one up!
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the help guys!

So I got the bike to start and idle by turning the advance knob a few times clockwise.

still when I throttle, it bogs down and stalls.
so that tells me its clogged jets?
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 04:24 PM
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how long do you let it warm up for? If i were to start my bike when its cold and give it throttle it will die as well. After mine is warmed up, the idle will settle down to around 1200-1500 rpms, and runs great. Let it warm up for a few minutes and then try some throttle.

SO again, when i have cold start issues, here's what i do (learned this trick from a member here)

advance the idle, maybe 1-2 turns clockwise
after the bike starts to warm up the idle will jump WAY up, 2000-3000 rpms.
turn the knob counter-clockwise until the rpms are at the 12-1500 range.
give it slight throttle at first and let the rpms climb, then test it with mid throttle and see if its still stuttering.
If the idle is good, take it for a spin and let the fuel work its way through the carbs.

My bike will be good after about a city blocks worth of riding. I'm sure my carbs are a bit dirty, otherwise i woldn't have to do this. It doesn't bother me though, so this method works for now.

Last edited by 303frost; 10-03-2012 at 04:30 PM.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 04:25 PM
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maybe run some seafoam through it. It'll help clean SOME of the gunk out of the carbs.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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ok so the bike starts and idles ok.
I turned back the adjustment knob after the bike was idleing ok and its sits right around 1200 rpms

it seemed to throttle smooth while the bike was in neutral. I took it up the street and it would bog down starting out and shifting and acceleration was rough and jumpy.
it also stalled twice.
any ideas?
I did let it warm up for a good 5 min or so.
I did also put stp gas treatment in it the other days as well.

Last edited by The Ace Face; 10-03-2012 at 04:55 PM.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 05:30 PM
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Balance, Balance, Balance

This was what I was told, when I reported the same issues on this forum and it was the problem. I spent $25.00 on a dual synch gauge setup and synced the carbs. All of my idle, and hesitation issues stopped and it runs great! Maybe this will solve your problems too. If not then maybe you need to remove and clean carbs, check for air leaks with airbox to carb to engine rubbers. These bikes are very sensitive to all of the above air and fuel issues. Hope you solve it soon, so you can enjoy riding.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-05-2012, 11:30 AM
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I have a 99 legend and if your bike is stumbling at low rpms it might be a good idea to check your coils. My bike would stumble till I hit about 4k on the tach. Turned out to be a bad coil on number 2 cylinder. Picked up a direct replacement coil from nology and it fixed the problem. 75 bucks from newlevelpowersports.com , hope this helps.

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