98 tbird -- rear wheel bearings R&R - Page 4 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #31 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-06-2012, 09:51 AM
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Are you sure the chain isn't catching on the sprocket teeth? This will cause the chain to slap in a rhythmic fashion, probably against the chain guard.

I agree, bearing failure is pretty unlikely.

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post #32 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-08-2012, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Well not much to report on over the weekend. I did put some gloves on and walk my fingers down the chain... didn't complete a full traversal, but I did find one link that wasn't moving as smoothly as the others, the others being somewhat consistent.

Also tried to move the front sprocket with my hands with the chain off... no movement vertically or horizontally.

Turned the sprocket without the chain on it, and although it moves smoothly (no grumbles from bearing) it did seem a bit stiff (is it supposed to spin a bit with one hand spinning it then letting go?).

I suppose I should have used more rigorous approach to the vertical/horiz play test above (eg a pry bar of sorts).

If it's the chain, then it would be repetitive... I didn't mark the chain during testing with the wheel on, but maybe a good test with the wheel on.

Again, I haven't been able to repeat the grumble with the wheel dismounted.


PS. Leak behind the sprocket... didn't check for that yet... would be difficult to see a (grease) leak since there is already chain lube all over that area... I'm presuming.

Last edited by stephsride; 10-08-2012 at 01:37 PM.
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post #33 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-08-2012, 01:41 PM
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there is a seal behind the countershaft sprocket. If that seal is leaking it should be obvious once the sprocket is off.

I think it is your chain, based on your description.

And I am no expert, and especially cannot see/touch your bike.

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post #34 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-08-2012, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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reuse gasket?

Originally Posted by IrlMike View Post
You want Engine Covers section for the gasket, Transmission for sprocket & Clutch for clutch pushrod seal. Should all be there on BB?, tho' aftermarket sprockets are cheaper & just as good if you were thinking to renew it. All are common parts across the classic triple range (except the cover colour/finish).
Mike, can I reuse the sprocket cover gasket? It is still all in one piece.

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post #35 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-08-2012, 07:24 PM
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Yes, I always do if it's not damaged

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post #36 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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Chain issue + latest update

Hello fellas! Hope you haven't forgot about me

I finally got some time to do some more checks on the front sprocket noise. My friend in prison gave me a suggestion and so I put the rear wheel back on, then tightened the chain tension real tight, then turned the wheel by hand and could feel a stepping motion coincident with the links in the chain, as well as could hear the same noise, but more consistently. I am convinced it is the chain (vs sprocket), since when the wheel was stationary, I inadvertently bumped the chain with my finger and was able to reproduce the noise. So, because the noise was heard when the front sprocket was stationary, the noise can't be from the sprocket bearings.

And it makes sense it's the chain because the noise goes away when tension on the chain is reduced. (I believe I have been riding with an overtightened chain for the past 6000 miles or so.)

On the front fork job, I was able to get the forks off and then proceed with a steering stem bearing check and renewal. The top steering bearing was seized!! Compared to the rear wheel bearing replacement, it was a breeze to remove, although the bike did fall over on me in the process (emergency room visit to cleanup a laceration to my thumb). The bottom bearing race was a breeze to remove as well. Installing required some inginuity. I was replacing it, so I didn't need the old one, so I spent a couple of hours with a dremel tool, grinding off a few 1000ths off the outer diameter of the old race, then used it to tap in the new race!!!


Took a while but got it done. What was interesting is that, although I had bought a new bearing set for this job, I discovered that the brand new bottom yoke and stem assembly I had in a box, had a brand new bearing installed on it already. So what I did was use the new race from the new bearing set, with the new bearing on the stem. Because I didn't want to remove the bearing from the stem, I greased it by pounding my cupped finger against the bearing over a period of about an hour. I used wheel bearing grease. (was this a bad idea??)

Next is the fork job.... I think I will reinstall the forks into the yokes in order to slacken the top cap, as I don't want to risk damaging the otherwise excellent condition fork tubes. For the special tool workaround, I found a 2ft long 3/4 diameter threaded rod, and then some M20 hex nuts, two on each end (haynes manual mentions grinding a square surface on the one end of the rod, but if the intention is to use a wrench on the end, why not save time and just use 2 hex nuts locked to each other??). Will let you guys know how it goes, hopefully this weekend.

I think the key thing I've learned with all this is, patience. As long as you are willing to go without riding for an extended period of time even, then you're more willing to tear things apart and do the job right. New steering stem, forks, wheel bearings, and tires. Wowwww!!!


Last edited by stephsride; 12-05-2012 at 11:10 PM. Reason: insert photo
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