Triumphrat

triplemike · 12-29-2005

Heres where I am with the dilemma - Yesterday I pulled the starter out of the 95 Speedtriple. I took it apart and spruced it up internally. The carbon inside was quite a mess but the contacts are actually still within specks after 59,000 miles. I cleaned it well and polished up the commutator. A bit of grease for the bearings and back together it went. It definitely seemed to spin smoother to me (wishful thinking ?).
The bike still would not start. I put the meter on the battery ( brand new Westco AGM) and when I turn the key the voltage drops right off to near nill. Key off and plug in my heated Jacket liner - same scenario. The ***** battery is no good. So, was the starter shorted or arcing internally and I ruined the new battery? or did the new battery have a heart attack after the first one or two starts it perfoermed for me ? or do I have some other problem I am missing and I end up frying the next new battery I install ? Isn't it grand ? Meanwhile I have to deal with the company I bought the battery from via the Internet. I of course have already tossed the original box . I can return it to them via return merchandise tag. If it is determined to be a fault of the manufacturer I get my refund, if not it seems I eat the shipping etc. Well at least I know I can get the starter in and out with the carbs and tank on the bike although the inner Torx fastener on the coolant elbow neede to be called all kinds of ingenious profanities before it decided to cooperate ! Any thoughts - ideas - words of encouragement will be appreciated. P.S. the t-160 still starts and runs although there is no plugging in of electric garments. Ironic when I have to ride my 31 year old scooter to the store to buy contact cleaner to work on the ten year old one eh ? :???:

MickMaguire · 12-29-2005

As I said before in the origianl thread it sounded very much like a faulty ignition switch to me. Did you check that out? TBSstunta had almost ther same symptoms as you describe. The switch is prone to internal corrosion as water makes its way in through the keyhole.

[ This message was edited by: MickMaguire on 2005-12-29 13:23 ]

jimmyj900 · 12-29-2005

Quote:

The bike still would not start. I put the meter on the battery ( brand new Westco AGM) and when I turn the key the voltage drops right off to near nill. Key off and plug in my heated Jacket liner - same scenario. The ***** battery is no good.

Have you run the battery on a charger? What you're describing is either a bad battery or an insifficiently charged one.

A lead-acid battery is strictly an energy storage device so you have to put energy in to get energy out. Give it a few hours of charge and see what happens.

If you've had the bike running since installing the new battery and it started OK with the battery new, it's time to check the charging systm.

Jim

TBSstunta · 12-30-2005

If you get lights but it won't start then your ignition is fine. If you get nothing but turnsignals/hazzards then its your ignition switch. Study your wire diagram, pull the headlight off, disconnect the ignition switch, and jump the proper wires with a short length of wire. It should act like the ignition is turned on. For obvious reasons I'm not going to be any more specific on how to hotwire our bikes.

You can order just a new ignition switch or a switch and matching seat lock. You have to do it at the same time because Triumph just stocks matched sets. There is no way they can later order you matching seatlock. I'd do the later so you dont have to deal with two keys.

[ This message was edited by: TBSstunta on 2005-12-30 16:08 ]

TBSstunta · 12-30-2005

I just read your other post and it doesn't sound like the ignion switch if you are getting headlights. If it were you would get nothing but the turn signals/hazzards.

trypcil · 12-30-2005

Suggest you charge the battery fully. If lights come on, turn signals work etc... then chances are the batt's fine. Does she turn over, click, or slimply nothing? If simply nothing happens when trying to start, take the starter button assembly apart at the handle bars and clean the contacts - try again. If there is a clicking from the solenoid - chances are that's your issue - clean the spades ends to the solenoid see if that does the job. Usually if you hear the click at the solenoid, there's your failure - replace. I haven't read the original post, so forgive my asking questions you may have answered there - good luck. :razz:

trypcil · 12-30-2005

OK read your previous post - clean the starter switch - when left standing mine does this no start thing - get those contacts bright for good contact and tighten the battery terminals - even clean them and make sure the battery is well charged. Sometimes without disassembling the start switch giving the button some wiggles and pushes to break thru the oxidation will get you by. Good luck :-D

carpelux · 12-30-2005

As You read the Voltage directly on the battery it can't be the ignition switch that's faulty.
I see three possible options here,

1 The connectors on the battery isn't tight enough so when the current starts to flow to the starter motor (or the west) it loose it's connection

2 The battery isn't charged enough. It should read 12,6V when it's not in use

3 The battery is faulty.

So, first go over the connections, then check the voltage and if that doesn't help change to another battery if You have one or use start cables from a car to see if the battery is faulty.