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resurrecting the tbird

2K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  tbirdchris 
#1 ·
I just got an '02 tbird 900 which isn't running but, is practically new (less than 1k mi). The previous owner said it hasn't been ridden since 2006. I know of a couple of things to check/replace before attempting to start the bike but, being an amateur motorcycle mechanic (DIY auto mechanic) I'm not entirely confident that I have covered all the bases.

My list thus far:
-battery
-spark plugs
-carburetor
-engine oil/filter
-hydraulic fluid (brake,clutch)
-radiator fluid
-compression test
-check gas tank for rust and replenish fuel (1 yr old gas in tank is what the owner said, I'm guessing that they tried to start it last year?)
-lube the cylinder heads and manually crank the engine

Is there anything else that should be done or considered in regards to the engine before I give it a go with the starter and a fresh battery?

Thanks,

Chris
 
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#3 ·
Your list looks ok to me. Pay particular attention to the pilot jets & pilot circuit - a simple blow thru' won't do it, you need to run some (soft) copper wire thru', emersed in fuel where possible to clear the gum residue that will have built up. Drill & yank out the pilot screw caps (just thin alu, not fitted to EU models) so you can clean that part too. Reset the pilot screws 2.5 turns out. Don't worry if you don't have a screwdriver to fine trim them with bike running. They aren't that critical, but a gauge balance is for good tickover & throttle pick up/drop off is.

Make sure the airbox & carb rubbers are in good condition with no leaks. Even small leaks will lean out the mixture a lot & cause problems.

Be sure to get DPR8 grade plugs, the DPR9 originally specced & still listed some places are too cold. Many of us like the NGK Iridium type - last a very long time & stay clean & correctly gapped. You need to find a 'thin' plug socket to fit thru' the head/valve cover - or be prepared to grind one down to suit.

Get an 'AGM' type battery rather than just 'sealed' or 'gel'. They have lower internal resistance (higher start current) & much lower self discharge. Don't over crank the motor or allow it to crank slowly to start it - there is a (small) risk the sprag (starter clutch) can fail & it's a motor strip to fix. IME these engines are great starters, on the button, tho' US models with plugged & leaner set stock pilot mixture can be less so.
 
#5 ·
IrlMike,

thanks for the details. I have cleaned the carb and the jets except for the pilot screws since I wasn't sure how to deal with the caps on them before now. Carb was very clean only one jet plugged (will clean the pilot screws next) and choke plungers were gunked up. The floats are all at 16.5mm, should I consider adjusting those or leave them for later? Float bowl gaskets are intact but, flat so I am going to order new ones since I don't have complete confidence in them to not leak.
 
#6 ·
I'd think the gaskets should be ok? And 16.5mm is close enough for the floats. Have a go at the pilot screws, do the rest of your list & you should have a fine triple ready to rip ;)
 
#7 ·
Turn the engine

Chris, I have just recently put a TBS into service that had been sitting dormant for about 5 years. I took the plugs out and squirted some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cyclinders and turned it by hand before starting. Marvel Mystery Oil is IMHO the best thing to use for this operation. Good luck, Clint
 
#8 ·
Chris, I have just recently put a TBS into service that had been sitting dormant for about 5 years. I took the plugs out and squirted some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cyclinders and turned it by hand before starting. Marvel Mystery Oil is IMHO the best thing to use for this operation. Good luck, Clint
Thanks for the recommendation Clint, I'll track down some marvel mystery oil.

-Chris
 
#9 ·
Looks like trouble with rust in the gas tank. There very fine particles of rust present and enough to make the fuel drained from the tank look like an orange koolaid. What's the best way to clean out the rust and then I suppose re-seal the tank? I've found some info on electrolysis, acetone, POR15 and Caswells in regards to cleaning and sealing.

Recommendations?

-Chris
 
#11 ·
Mine was in the same shape when I purchased it....dont forget the air filter!
sitting for 3 years I got ahead of myself, cleaned carbs, and started her up with the stock air filter(what was left of it) and sucked all that disentigrated foam straight into the just cleaned carbs....alas a second cleaning was immediately done!
 
#13 ·
Mine was in the same shape when I purchased it....dont forget the air filter!
chromepig,

my air filter is intact and in good shape as well as the seals on the box. I would have checked it eventually but, thanks for the heads up and saving me from a disintegrating foam issue (I've seen old foam crumble like cake and it's a real mess!).
 
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