Triumphrat

cafetbird · 08-15-2005, 02:34 PM

BTW, folks - how long has it been since you changed your brake fluid???

If it has been more than 3 years, or if your fluid looks like ice tea, to quote the great Mufasu "it is time". The stuff sucks up water better than a camel... will corrode your innards, and fail to work properly.

Scot

Beemie · 08-15-2005, 03:52 PM

Inever changed my fluid on my Bonneville since 1976 until 2 years ago when the master cylinder on the handlebars gave a sudden reminder. I made it home without ruining the paint on the tank, but it was a nervous time.

It turned out that the slaves at the calipers were also quite cruddy inside.

So what you advise is true.

Just to make sure I make it through the next 27 years, I replaced all with stainless steel barrelled parts.

Just plain lazy I guess and it's a royal pain trying to find a "proper" disposal site for those types of fluids now-a-days.

fbird · 08-15-2005, 04:24 PM

Absolutely!! My buddy just bought an 95 suzuki katana, we decided to check the brake fluid cause the front brake is extremely tight and we found crude floating on top of the brake fluid. I've worked on old cars for years and have never seen brake fluid that nasty.

maxpower · 08-15-2005, 07:58 PM

any thoughts on DOT 5 silicone brake fluid? It does not absorb moisture (not necessarily a good thing).

Rincewind · 08-15-2005, 09:04 PM

Quote:

On 2005-08-15 17:58, maxpower wrote:
any thoughts on DOT 5 silicone brake fluid? It does not absorb moisture (not necessarily a good thing).

I've been told to never put DOT 5 in a bike. The Haynes manual also recommends only DOT 4.

I checked my front brake and clutch fluid recently and found I still had plenty. But now that you mention it, Scot, it did look like iced tea. Is there an easy way to drain the old fluid, and do you recommend renewing the clutch fluid as well? I've never done this, but by your approximation it would be a good idea.

cafetbird · 08-15-2005, 09:24 PM

DOT 5 is for ABS systems only. It is not compatible with the internals of other brake systems. DOT4 is recommended because of the boiling point - DOT3 is too low, and you WILL get brake fade in the twisties if you use it.

Easy way to change??? Nope. You need to drain the system dry, refill and bleed it. If you are slightly handy, this is no big deal. I usually open the bleeder screw on the caliper, drain it all out by pumping the brake, refill it with the new fluid, then pump it all down into the system.

For a speed bleeder, you can use a piece of "fish filter" plastic hose, and a very small plastic bottle. Punch a hole in the cap of the bottle, then push the hose all the way to the bottom. Attach the other end of tube to the bleeder screw, and use an 8mm open end wrench to open and shut the bleeder. Once enough fluid flows out to cover the end of the tube fully, start pumping the bleeding process:

1. Depress the brake,
2. Open the bleeder screw,
3. Close screw before bottoming out the brake lever,
4. Repeat until lever holds firm and all the bubbles disapear,
5. Keep reservior filled with fresh fluid - don't let it run dry.
6. Top off reservoir when complete.

If you have never done this before, try it - you'll get the hang of it quickly.

maxpower · 08-16-2005, 08:51 AM

sorry I phrased that rather poorly. Due to it's non hygroscopic nature it would appear to solve the situation you are describing. I therefor, was contemplating upgrading to DOT 5 by completely draining, rebuilding, and refilling the brake systems. Also it does not eat the paint. However upon doing some research on-line I discovered several disparaging articles.
Click here for an interesting link on the differences between DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5 Brake fluids