Triumphrat

UJMrider · 08-08-2005

Just a quick question about tightening the chain (seeing as how I haven't owned a chain-driven bike since 1985):

I noticed there are two nuts on the screw that presses against the axle. I assume the top nut (i.e. farthest from the axle) is just there to keep the other one from backing out?

I have a manual, but it must be from a 1995 or 96 b/c is shows the adjustment being done with some eccentric screws on the axle itself.

I assume the procedure is as follows:

Bike on the center stand, so rear wheel can turn freely

Loosen the "top" nut on either side of the axle so bottom nut can turn freely

carefully tighten "bottom" nut, turning one side and then the other, until the chain has 30mm of slack at a point between the rear sprocket and the tranny case (incidentally, the manual says 30mm of slack, but also says it's measured when the bike is on the side stand, which means the wheel is on the ground. Is it still 30mm if the bike is on the C-stand and the wheel is hanging free?)

Then tighten the "top" nut down onto the "bottom" nut.

Does that sound right? Also, how do I make sure the axle is perfectly perpendicular to the direction of travel?

Slinky · 08-09-2005

The early bikes did indeed have eccentric adjusters. What you have is a screw and locknt adjustment system.

You need to loosen the axle bolt, and the brake torque arm bolt. Undo the locknuts and back them off a turn. , Turn the screws back an equal amount. It is better to count the "flats" on the bolt heads than to try to count the number of turns, because a) it is more accurate and (b) even a couple of flats makes a big difference to chain tension.

In theory, you need to take the mufflers off to do it properly. In practise it can just about be done without removing them. That might sound like a pain in the butt but with a good chain you very rarely need to adjust. Mine replacement chain has been on the bike for 12,000 miles and I have not had to adjust it yet.

BTW, I too had shafties for years and I swore I'd never get another chain driven bike, but chains have come a long long way.

parrycm · 08-09-2005

My '95 has the eccentric cam adjusters - I think your type would be preferable.

The Triumph workshop manual says 25-30mm but does not specify whether that is on the sidestand or centrestand. I measure and adjust on the centrestand using 30mm and then doublecheck the slack with someone on the bike and off the centrestand.

Isn't there a scale etched into the swingarm so you can get the wheel straight? Otherwise measure from the swingarm to the wheel rim, on both sides, and make sure the two readings match. This does of course assume that the swingarm is symmetrical and that the wheel is mounted centrally.

Don't forget to rotate the wheel so that you measure and adjust the chain slack at the loosest point.

Bodger · 08-09-2005

Quote:

On 2005-08-09 12:35, parrycm wrote:
Don't forget to rotate the wheel so that you measure and adjust the chain slack at the loosest point.

I thought it was at the tightest part of the chain so you don't over tighten it and risk breaking it.

parrycm · 08-09-2005

Joules....

Thanks for keeping me honest - yes that should have read tightest (or least slack), not loosest.