Triumphrat

hd002e · 04-08-2009, 11:06 AM

I took out my forks to fix the little oil weeping by replacing the seals. Instructions on the Haynes manual, this site as well as several videos on YouTube have been incredibly helpful in aiding me through the way. However I have an inherent problem with my suspension.

In every instructions I have read and any photo essay put together on front fork disassembly, there is always a special tool you need to take out the dampening rod. The haynes manual shows the tool, the triumph delaer sells the tool, many have made a tool by attaching a 30mm nut at the end of a 14inch or longer metal rod.. However my dampening rod has no socket for a rod to hold on to.

I was able to get it out by applying a bit of downward pressure on the dampening rod while loosening the screw at the bottom of the forks but when I need to put it in, there is a specific torque I need to bolt it to - I am worried about how I will be able to hold the dampening rod in place without a socket on the head of the rod.

Please see the below photos - what appears to be completely round in my case (1st photo with the pavement background), is supposed to have a 30mm socket (2nd photo with the table background).

Is this normal? How do I get a grip on the dampening rod if the head is completely round?

turboderek · 04-08-2009, 11:18 AM

not to sure on it works on a thunderbird but,

on other bikes I have put the forks back together the did the final torquing of the damping rod bolt then. the forks spring springs and caps held the rode tight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hd002e

I took out my forks to fix the little oil weeping by replacing the seals. Instructions on the Haynes manual, this site as well as several videos on YouTube have been incredibly helpful in aiding me through the way. However I have an inherent problem with my suspension.

In every instructions I have read and any photo essay put together on front fork disassembly, there is always a special tool you need to take out the dampening rod. The haynes manual shows the tool, the triumph delaer sells the tool, many have made a tool by attaching a 30mm nut at the end of a 14inch or longer metal rod.. However my dampening rod has no socket for a rod to hold on to.

I was able to get it out by applying a bit of downward pressure on the dampening rod while loosening the screw at the bottom of the forks but when I need to put it in, there is a specific torque I need to bolt it to - I am worried about how I will be able to hold the dampening rod in place without a socket on the head of the rod.

Please see the below photos - what appears to be completely round in my case (1st photo with the pavement background), is supposed to have a 30mm socket (2nd photo with the table background).

Is this normal? How do I get a grip on the dampening rod if the head is completely round?

IrlMike · 04-08-2009, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turboderek

not to sure on it works on a thunderbird but,

on other bikes I have put the forks back together the did the final torquing of the damping rod bolt then. the forks spring springs and caps held the rode tight.

That's exactly how I did it on my Tbird. It's reckoned there's enough pressure from the springs to hold the damper rod for both removing & torquing up on reassembly. Worked fine for me, tho' I had to use an impact drive to get the bolt loose initially with a torx bit hammered into the allen bolt head as it had rounded a bit from my earlier efforts.

Mike

hd002e · 04-08-2009, 01:04 PM

Thanks guys -

but arent you supposed to screw the bottom retainer bolt BEFORE you put in the oil and before the springs go in?

My understanding of assembly in order is:
- install top bushing on the stanchion
- install bottom bushing on the stanchion
- put the stanchio inside the lower fork
- drive the oil seals, retaining clip, dust seal squarely into place
- insert the dampening rod seat
- insert the dampening rod
- screw in the dampening rod from the bottom
- fill up with oil (measure level)
- put in the washers, spacers, spring
- close off the top of the fork

...

Should I change the order and put in the washers, spring, spacer, top cap, damper rod seat and damper rod temporarily BEFORE I fill it with oil so that I can get the downward force needed to screw in the bottom damper rod holding bolt?

IrlMike · 04-08-2009, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hd002e

Thanks guys -

but arent you supposed to screw the bottom retainer bolt BEFORE you put in the oil and before the springs go in?

My understanding of assembly in order is:
- install top bushing on the stanchion
- install bottom bushing on the stanchion
- put the stanchio inside the lower fork
- drive the oil seals, retaining clip, dust seal squarely into place
- insert the dampening rod seat
- insert the dampening rod
- screw in the dampening rod from the bottom
- fill up with oil (measure level)
- put in the washers, spacers, spring
- close off the top of the fork

...

Should I change the order and put in the washers, spring, spacer, top cap, damper rod seat and damper rod temporarily BEFORE I fill it with oil so that I can get the downward force needed to screw in the bottom damper rod holding bolt?

I haven't done the seals, so I'm assuming that part is right (I was drilling the damper rods for RaceTech emulators), but, yes, bolt up without oil, torque up damper rod bolt, then remove caps again & do the oil.

Mike

hd002e · 04-08-2009, 01:20 PM

Excellent!

THanks MIke - I will do...

How are the emulators working for you? I wonder if I can fit those into my Legend forks? It would be nice to have some type of adjusting ability.

Slinky · 04-08-2009, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hd002e

Is this normal? How do I get a grip on the dampening rod if the head is completely round?

The tool goes inside the head of the damper rod, not outside of it. The inside of the head is shaped like a socket.

IrlMike · 04-08-2009, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hd002e

Excellent!

THanks MIke - I will do...

How are the emulators working for you? I wonder if I can fit those into my Legend forks? It would be nice to have some type of adjusting ability.

I think they are very good. It's been a slow process playing with them & learning, sharpened up immeasurably by the rear now totally sorted with a ZX9R shock. And the challenge of getting the suspension toward modern standards here in Ireland can't be understated - we must have the worst (rural) roads of any 'developed' country.

I'm getting close, tho', to a decent front end. It wouldn't be possible without the adjustability of the emulators & the better linearity they provide too for compression damping. Little fear of (but still respect for) bumpy bends now.

At the moment I've Hagon prog springs, 100mm spacers/preload, emulators set to 1 3/4 turns & Motul 10W oil. Rebound damping is now the issue, compliance & compression damping are good, tho' it takes a surprising length of time for the fork oil to get to an equilibrium temperature, so a little harsh when cold.

As soon as I can get some Silkolene PRO RSF 10W, actually about 40% more Cst (Viscosity) than the Motul, I'll be trying that & backing off the emulators to suit, mbe to 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns. (Raising rebound, keeping compression the same.)
The Silkolene also has a VI (Vicosity Index -change of viscosity vs temperature) twice that of the Motul.

The Legend forks are the same as the Tbird's, so the same emulators will fit your bike. (My bike is mostly Legend, but the forks were swapped from my old Tbird.)

Mike

MickMaguire · 04-08-2009, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slinky

The tool goes inside the head of the damper rod, not outside of it. The inside of the head is shaped like a socket.

Yes, but as per his picture, his isn't - looks like a production change to the internals

Slinky · 04-08-2009, 02:09 PM

My fault for not reading the first post properly. That's weird..!