Triumphrat

ericp

My T-bird rolled up the driveway on the back of a truck and it's beautiful! I actually have never seen one up close and personal. So I guess it was a blind date. Anyway, I love this thing and I know I got a killer deal on it too.

Anyway, before my first ride I took off the bar risers that were on it. While doing so I let the bar turn all the way around so the front brake master cylinder was down low for a minute or two. I got the bars where I wanted them and went for a spin. The front brake feels pretty soft now. It still grabs fine but there is a pretty big throw to the lever. The levers are adjustable and they are on the furthest setting. So does the lever need to be adjusted or did I accidentally get some air in the lines or something? There is no difference pumping them up like a car. They just stay that way. I want a hard feel on that lever as it seems in an emergency stop I'll crack that lever in until it hits the bar.
Anyone have thoughts on whether this is just the way it is or if I might have screwed something up?
thanks

2165T

Sounds like you have some air in the line - time to bleed it out. Not a major job.

Mike

BigAl8295

Just bleed the brake line and it should firm up again.

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ericp

Pathetic of me to not know how to do this but let me know if I have it right. I open up the master cylinder cover, then open up a bleader line somewhere near the caliper. then I squeeze the lever a few times and top the fluid off. Then close the bleeder and close up the cover? Is that it? What kind of brake fluid do I use?

Lushy

Ericp, you should use DOT4 brake fluid. Yes you do take the top off, fill the reservior wth fluid (not to the top though) place the cap back on loose as this stops any spit back you may get when the lever is pressed. before you start though loosen and then nip the bleedfer back up this is just to make sure that it will in fact open and is not seized. Capply the brake a couple of time slowly ( so and not to agitate the air that is trapped) hold the lever tight and open the bleeder close the nipple just before the lever meets the grip . repeat until all iar is dispelled or you see all nice new fuild. do not forget to check the reservior level. It is better if you have a tube in a bottle with a little fluid in it so that you can see the air come out and also to make sure no air gets back in if you do not close the nipple just before the end of the lever travel.


Hope this helps.

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ssevy

Two cautions - always use a fresh, unopened bottle or can of brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs water from the air very quickly, so always use a fresh supply and discard any left over so that you won't be tempted to use it. The second thing is that brake fluid is great paint remover, so be careful not to spill any, and if you do, wipe it right up.

Congratulations on becoming a member of a great fraternity!

jonathanrsr

ericp,

Congrats on the new TB! How about some details - year, color, why you chose the TB. Have only owned mine a year, but it's been 5000+ of the most enjoyable MC miles I've logged. These bikes are a hoot. Depending on where in Phila you are, you might want to check out Manayunk Triumph's RAT group. I think they meet Thursdays. Call Buzz (215-482-8020) to confirm. And if you ever decide to ride the twisties in Chester County, let me know. There are some great roads out here.

ericp

I'll check out the locations of the stuff I need to get to to do this job. I should be able to do it myself, afterall, it can't be harder than a car, and it's about time I learn how to do it so I can change pads myself on the cars.

I too am in Chester county but on the very eastern side.
I started riding in 2005 but since then have owned (and sold) Suzuki GS550 (starter bike) a 2001 Tiger, a 2000 Sprint ST, a VFR (only for a month - too cramped) and then last year a KLR (that was a hoot but in the shop too much). I have always liked the looks of the Thunderbird and read up on it quite a bit. I am definitely a retro grouch but have no patience for a project bike and no time either. The T-bird is not a cruiser, never want one of those, and one of the few modern standards left around that aren't really old. I also have a buddy out in CA that bought a '95 new so there was a connection there.
This bike is the Aegean blue with a centerstand, triumph windscreen, and a sissybar/rack. I took the bar risers off today. The bike is a real looker. Can't quite get over it. I might have to keep it in my living room.

denny

http://www.webbikeworld.com/

Here's a great resource.

A good thing to do when bleeding motorcycle brakes.

Put some tubing on the bleeder, run that down to a container with some brake fluid in it.

This will help prevent fluid from spraying onto any painted surface that can be damaged. Also it will help prevent air getting into the system through the bleed valve. The idea is to pump fluid through the system until no more is in there.

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Cheers,Denny

Bbogie

If the standard bleeding technique doesn't get it done, you might try bleeding it at the banjo bolt. That worked on mine after several attempts by the conventional method didn't work.