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Hinckley Classic Triples 885cc Classic Styled T3's: Legend, Thunderbird, Thunderbird Sport & Adventurer.

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Old 03-30-2009, 08:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Electrical question.

I have lost the horn,headlight, tach and idiot lights.
It started as a short and now appears open.
I just rebuilt the forks so I'm guessing I'll find the problem in the headlight shell since it did hang there for a bit while the forks were off.
My question is this: my Haynes drawing shows a headlight on/off (not the dimmer) switch independant of the key switch. That tells me it is NOT the american version.
Does anyone out there have a drawing that shows the American version?
The wire colors seem to vary slightly from drawing to actual.
The fuse I was blowing was #5 which does make sense since the horn etc. are part of that circuit. Problem is the drawing says blue but the actual is black with I think is a grey stripe.
On a brighter note, the forks made a great improvement in the ride and handling.
Of course my heart sank when my tach went away because I always know what went away with it (a bad horn some time back is where I learned that).
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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That fuse should be #1 by my info, I hope you're looking at the right wire? The fault may possibly not be near the shell but could be near the steering head & I'd have thought a chafed wire shorting to chassis should be fairly easy to spot ?
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Do you know physicaly where that wire splits off to the horn, headlight etc.
I reckon it must be after the key switch.
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Old 03-30-2009, 01:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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That fuse is after the key (ignition) switch. Could be joined anywhere between where the horn wires join the main loom under the tank & (incl) the headlight shell. If you can't see anything obvious around main loom or shell, I'd have a good look at that branch down to the horn. If you're not sure of the colours, disconnect from the horn & one of them should show connectivity to ground when you press the horn button (power off, of course). The other is the one you're interested in.

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Old 03-30-2009, 02:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thank you Mike!
I think I'm in for a long night with meter and the drawing!
You're right about after the key. These drawings are a little tough on me since I'm used to ladder logic.
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Old 04-03-2009, 11:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Still head scratchin'.
Does anyone have a factory diagram they can scan?
Haynes is not accurate as I can tell specifically in the area that I'm having problems.
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Old 04-03-2009, 12:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Weird!! The #5 fuse was what was blowing on me.
When it would the headlights, tach, etc. would crap out.
That fuse is described as the aux 10A in the fuse box.
I removed that fuse, replaced #1 (head light) which was blown this time.
What does the auxiliary fuse do? Heated hand grips, CB radios, that sort of thing.
Headlights, etc work again but I'm befuddled! I mean I have an emergency crew on the way with the "jaws of life" to remove my head from my a$$ right now!!!
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Old 04-03-2009, 04:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The AUX Fuse (10A) just powers the alarm, not used if it's not fitted....erm...didn't quite follow what else you were saying? ...digestive tract acoustics not the best maybe ?
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Old 04-03-2009, 04:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
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KD5Q0Q,

In the hope you have wath on it,i hope you can make it bigger on your PC at home.
In Dutch sorry, but i hope you can falo the wiring coller.

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Old 04-03-2009, 06:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thank You Jan, God Bless You!!
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