Triumphrat

elmer · 04-01-2012, 12:25 PM

I never actually get even an amber light. It's always red. One question I have is when is this 12.5 volt measurement being taken? I now have an automotive battery charger hooked up, and with the ignition on it shows 12.3 on the multimeter. With the ignition off I'm showing anywhere between 14 and 15 volts.

MarcS · 04-01-2012, 01:30 PM

That's a big drop...with my charger on, I never went below 13V...is your battery OK? (Still I'd think 12.3 would be plenty...unless power is dirty due to something cycling...)

I used a 6 amp dumb charger.

That said, with my computer issues, I never had an amber light either. Just red flickering for about 15 seconds and then it'd give up. FWIW the USB on the working cable I am using is 0403:6001 - so we are using the same cable (or clones).

bluesman77 · 04-01-2012, 01:51 PM

For what it's worth, the 1st time I hooked-up mine, neither the laptop or bike were connected to chargers & the headlight was operating. My voltage was showing on the TuneECU screen sub-12 volts, yet I was still able to connect and even download my factory map. It threw me off a little that 1st time because I was expecting a steady instead of blinking green light, but later found out that was normal.

Quote:

Originally Posted by elmer

I never actually get even an amber light. It's always red. One question I have is when is this 12.5 volt measurement being taken? I now have an automotive battery charger hooked up, and with the ignition on it shows 12.3 on the multimeter. With the ignition off I'm showing anywhere between 14 and 15 volts.

elmer · 04-01-2012, 01:58 PM

I think I've been pretty thorough about my testing here. I've got two 98 speed triples, tried it with two different laptops and still nothing. I'm beginning to suspect the cable, even though it installs properly in device manager and is recognized by USBView. I've attached images of my disassembled cable. One thing that I am suspicious of is the crack in the solder on the left. I don't know if that's always been the case or if I did that while disassembling the cable. I'm just looking for affirmation that this is the proper cable.

Can anyone confirm when comparing their cable?

MarcS, The battery that I was reading from is a brand new sealed unit from Batteries Plus and has less than 100 miles on it. Did you end up ever getting it working? I didn't try my older 32 bit XP laptop on the bike with the new battery in it, I could give that a shot. Also, what kind of generic OBDII software were you using? I could test out the cable that way, see if I can get any info off the bike or my car...

MarcS · 04-01-2012, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elmer

...
Can anyone confirm when comparing their cable?

MarcS, The battery that I was reading from is a brand new sealed unit from Batteries Plus and has less than 100 miles on it. Did you end up ever getting it working? I didn't try my older 32 bit XP laptop on the bike with the new battery in it, I could give that a shot.

Worked like a champ once I used the generic cable which looks identical to yours and the 32 bit Windows 7. New battery here as well.

My PCB is cocked down slightly, but it has good solder joints. to the PCB on the ODB-II connector. Your cable does look different from mine - mine has a blue exterior, but I have dashes where you have dots, and internally it is a bit different. I bet you are going to have to reflow that solder joint when you put it back together.

Have you tried it with generic OBD-II software? The "freeware" version of VAG-COM can talk to my bike and read codes and see things like engine RPM using my cable.

elmer · 04-01-2012, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarcS

Have you tried it with generic OBD-II software? The "freeware" version of VAG-COM can talk to my bike and read codes and see things like engine RPM using my cable.

I reflowed the solder on the first connection, and it is showing good continuity to pin 7 on the OBDII side.

I tried this (http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html) software and think the results are somewhat inconclusive. I was able to have it detect the interface and the ECU, albeit with "poor" latency the app said. However, I couldn't get it to read any info. I don't know if its because I don't know how to really use the software and stumbled around the interface, but I had it auto scan and it never connected to anything. This was all on my older laptop running XP 32 bit with the appropriate .NET framework installed. I'm nearly to the point of giving up. Thank you for all of your input thus far MarcS and Bluesmanl

bluesman77 · 04-01-2012, 09:20 PM

Don't know that this will help any, but the cable I use looks very similar to yours and is the infamous Amazon.com one w/ which some other have had problems. I read those posts shortly after receiving mine and figured it wouldn't work, especially since I never got any wizzards and really didn't know if the (2) drivers had loaded until actually trying it out, but it worked like a champ.

Sorry you're having problems - I really hoped it was something simple.

MarcS · 04-01-2012, 10:42 PM

Ok...last ditch effort - got anything with OBDII that is *not* your Sprint? ie a car? Maybe you could try reading the codes there?

If it were me though, I'd be looking to try a different cable.

elmer · 04-02-2012, 08:44 PM

I can give that a shot, do you have a link to a specific piece of software to use?

pflegi82 · 04-03-2012, 04:08 PM

Hi,

i'm a newbie in Tune Ecu, i read many posts about the Air/Fuel table in this forum and in other forums.i want to know it#s this the right way that my 2011 Speedmaster run an little bit better and smoother?I added a picture of my A/F table on the link below.

Greetings Marc

http://www.bilder-hochladen.net/file...-1679-jpg.html