Triumphrat

daytripper675 · 01-27-2008

Okay...So I bought a lowering link and took the rear down about 1 1/2". Now the bike sits fairly upright while on the kickstand and I'm afraid it's going to tip over on the right if it's even bumped.

I didn't drop the front any. Can I assume that the front needs to be dropped also by at least a little (to compensate for the rear) if for nothing else than handling? What about the kickstand? Should I try to file it down a little to get back the angle she's supposed to sit at when parked?

Anyone lowered their 675 and found this same situation?

Thanks!
Daytripper 675

TripleThreat · 01-27-2008

I haven't lowered my 675, but conventional suspension wisdom would say that in order to keep the geometry similar to stock, you would need to push the forks up through the triple tree so more sticks out through the top. How much, I'm not sure. I would recommend going somewhere that they have a GMD Computrack machine so a professional can measure the current geometry, compare it to stock and then make adjustments to bring it more in line with the stock numbers or to optimize it for your riding style.

I would think that lowering the rear without lowering the front would create some really strange handling issues.

As far as the kickstand goes, see if you can buy one off ebay, cut out a section in the middle and tig weld it back together. Then file down the weld to smooth it out and make it look better. If you do it this way, you would be able to keep the foot area at the bottom of the kick stand, which is important when parking the bike on asphalt so that it doesn't sink and fall over.

TripleThreat

Will · 01-27-2008

Actually, if you lower the rear it might make the bike a little more stable, depending on how much you lowered it. I raised the front of my bike a little and then raised the rear a similar amount and it is about as skittish as they come. Track feedback is to pull the forks up flush with the top clamp instead of leaving a bit exposed, and lower an adjustable shock as well to counter the front's tendency to tuck in high speed corners. It isn't an issue unless you are riding on the track, but it is worth thinking about. Of course, if you have dropped the rear by a matter of inches, then you really should drop the front a bit as well.

TripleThreat · 01-27-2008

Will,

I agree with your assessment, however, he stated that he lowered his rear by 1-1/2", which is a significant amount.

Our track riding modifications are typically done in 4 to 5 mm increments on the front and 1 to 3mm increments in the rear.

Lowering the rear a full 1-1/2" would be the equivelent of approximately 38mm of change.

With that drastic of a change, I would think that the handling would be way off... thus the need to lower the front as well.

Your thoughts?

TripleThreat

daytripper675 · 01-27-2008

Thanks TT and Will! I knew you guys would be able to help!

Panthers_Den · 01-27-2008

For what it's worth, the previous owner of my sprint st had the dog bone replaced and lowered it quite a bit but didn't lower the front cause he wanted a more upright sitting style. I went and took the bike to a local guy who adjusted the suspension and dropped the front a hell of a lot and the bike rides sooo much better now. the geometry of it was way off.

Brooksie · 01-27-2008

One of the first things I asked about on this forum was concerning a lowering link. I'm sure you'll have to adjust the front end in some manner otherwise the set up could be quite confusing. I opted not to use the link and let the bike break in for awhile. I also wanted to drop the bike down a bit to accomodate my inseam, but found the bike to be fine once I started using it. I agree that it would be best to have a pro set up the suspension and others, since I am in no way an expert in set up. I am leaving the bike stock for the first 1000 miles and then go after it. That's the problem with a great suspension that is adjustable: it leaves alot for me to get wrong.

Will · 01-28-2008

Jeff, you are absolutely right. I missed the 1-1/2" part! I have been haunting Cycle Barn lately in an attempt to get all kinds of baseline measurements so I can figure out what I did to my bike's geometry. In daytripper's case, I am guessing he would lower the front by about 1-1/4" to get an effect similar to one of us raising the front a little and lowering the rear a little.

TripleThreat · 01-28-2008

Will,

Let me know if you need some specific measurements that you can't get. Now that I have the dedicated 675 Track Bike that I am starting work on, I should be able to get pretty much any measurement that you need as that bike is stock in terms of suspension set up right now. Maybe a front pre-load adjustment has been made, but other than that it appears to be completely stock... not for long...

Jeff

Will · 01-28-2008

Rear ride height is the big one. I have a measurement of a hair over 18-1/2" from the bottom of the pillion peg fitting weld to the bottom of the paddock stand fitting on the swingarm, taken from a stock bike on the showroom floor while on the sidestand. I can duplicate it. Other measurements would be shock length and maybe rear height off the pavement to some easily duplicated point on the bodywork or subframe. I don't need exact down to the mm, but a good baseline to work from beats what I have now. Or don't.

By the way, this is the Gixxer:

The bodywork is just resting on the bike and is a little crooked. The first thing I did when it got to my brother's garage was to take the bodywork off and start removing old sponsor decals. I plan to paint it- not as nicely as your 675, but a bit different from what you see here. The drum brake in the background is my Norton. It is waiting for some love, but I doubt it will get any this summer!