Triumphrat

ericjansen · 03-04-2010, 01:05 AM

Hello.

I am new to the Triumph world.
Live in China, where riding sucks (at least in the area I live).
We luckily have a bit more opportunities to ride the local F-3 and sometimes the Shanghai F-1 track.

As I ran out of projects, I bought myself a nice, but terribly tortured Daytona.
have in the meantime cleaned her up, repainted parts, and am waiting the last OEM parts as well as a new, fresh race fairing.

It has been modified for the track by the previous owner, but it seems all hacking by the previous owner went a bit too far.
I have tried to repair/replace the partly hacked away cable boom as the bike was not running.

The bike is now running, but I got a small issue.
The yellow 'check engine' light is always on.
The 'oil light' goes off as normal.

I guess the light is on as it is missing a signal or something.
But as I don't have any diagrams or manuals on the bike, I am not sure which impute signals it needs, and which to check.

For info, the bike lost all the cables for the lighting, brakes etc.
It also lost the air filter (replacement on the way though), and the left switch-box (the one for the indicators etc).
There are still 2 cables going from the connector to the clutch switch though.

Anyone who can shed some light on this?

Eric

Will · 03-04-2010, 12:10 PM

My guess is the previous owner disconnected the exhaust flapper and didn't change the map. The ECU is looking for the assembly, not finding it, and thinking it's a fault. I don't know if there's a Triumph dealership you can take it to, but my guess is there isn't, so you will benefit more than almost anybody else from TuneBoy. It can tell you exactly what the light is all about, and then probably let you do something about it.

Whisky_Richard · 03-04-2010, 07:47 PM

Cheaper short-term:
Get yourself a service manual (will generally help with any repair on the bike) and any OBDII code reader. You should be able to get the code using the reader, look it up in the manual, make any necessary fixes and clear the code using the reader.

Potentially cheaper long-term:
Or get a tuneboy. The tuneboy would be useful for updating the map (which may be necessary if the previous owner removed the exhaust valve - as previously mentioned - or modified any other part of the code requiring a map change

)

Whisky_Richard · 03-04-2010, 07:48 PM

Now that I think about it, both a service manual and a tuneboy would be ideal. Though a simple OBD II reader is the quickest solution for resetting codes.

ericjansen · 03-05-2010, 01:17 AM

Thanks for the reply.
All advise went more or less the way I expected.
Where are the times one could repair anything on a bike with just a hammer and a screw driver

?

Will do an other check on all (missing) cables and connectors, but I guess flapper valve makes sense, as also the air filter was missing, and the exhaust is cored out.

Any one or any place where I can find an electric diagram in the meantime? I searched but failed to find it so far.

Eric

Whisky_Richard · 03-05-2010, 01:30 PM

PM'ed

Will · 03-05-2010, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericjansen

Thanks for the reply.
All advise went more or less the way I expected.
Where are the times one could repair anything on a bike with just a hammer and a screw driver

?

Will do an other check on all (missing) cables and connectors, but I guess flapper valve makes sense, as also the air filter was missing, and the exhaust is cored out.

Any one or any place where I can find an electric diagram in the meantime? I searched but failed to find it so far.

Eric

Cored out exhaust or not, if the flapper is still there but a bit corroded, it will still cause the engine light to come on.

ericjansen · 03-05-2010, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whisky_Richard

PM'ed

PM Returned, thx!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Will

Cored out exhaust or not, if the flapper is still there but a bit corroded, it will still cause the engine light to come on.

I read that on some Triumph's the CE light only goes off after 3 heat cycles.
Does that count for the 675 as well?
Sounds a bit strange to me.

Eric

Will · 03-06-2010, 10:43 PM

They all do that. Really. Beats me why, but if the codes are all cleared, the light will go out after three heat cycles. If the code is still there, it will stay on.

Whisky_Richard · 03-07-2010, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Will

They all do that. Really. Beats me why, but if the codes are all cleared, the light will go out after three heat cycles. If the code is still there, it will stay on.

If you clear the code it stays off unless it is triggered again (i know cause i had the problem and cleared it a couple times). Problem is, it takes 3 cycles, without anything to trigger it, to clear it. Like you said, even if its just corroded it will throw the CEL.