Triumphrat

jklnhd · 07-27-2009, 08:34 PM

Okay, the coilover setup in the rear is slammed on my bike (last owner = chic, probably not quite as tall, makes sense I guess).
I get how to adjust it, but where should it be (stock)?
I'm trying to get everything back to factory looks/settings, so I can start playing with adjustments from where they came from.

Also, any idea on what a 2-year/12k mile service usually runs? Haven't been able to talk to dealer yet.

Grashopr · 07-28-2009, 04:02 PM

You should have a couple friends help you set your rider sag if you're going to be down there anyways. You can look up directions on how to do it on sportrider.com (they have very specific directions), but it's not rocket science. You will need a couple friends to help, but give them beer and they'll do it happily.

If you get giddy... pick yourself up a straight-rate spring that's rated to your weight and toss the stock rising-rate 'one size fits all' spring.

jklnhd · 07-29-2009, 05:48 PM

Thanks for the info, I'll check it out. I didn't think it'd be too bad, kinda looks like a normal coilover deal anyway.

I'll look into the spring too, but will that cause any issues with a passenger? Not that I do a lot of hardcore Rossi-wannabe riding with a passenger, but she'll be on the back until I scrounge the cash for an EX250 or something.

Grashopr · 07-30-2009, 02:32 AM

Getting a set of springs from racetech wont be any worse with a passenger than the stocker. The stock spring gets 'stiffer' as you go through the travel of it, so unless you're riding with a passenger more often than riding solo, it'd still be beneficial to get a proper spring for your weight and riding style. Check out RaceTech's website, they have a spring calculator (you put in your weight and riding style) that will let you know what weight spring you need.

Their website is difficult to navigate, but start here:

http://old.racetech.com/evalving/menu/searchstreet.asp

Look for the link for the calculator, it says Custom Fork and Shock Spring Calculation and Available Rates

Should be HERE.

Every shock spring for the 675 is around $100, fork springs are about the same. Even without the valving the difference is noticeable even on the street.

TripleThreat · 07-30-2009, 11:50 AM

The stock rear spring on the 675 is not a rising rate spring. The Daytona has a rising rate linkage. Changing the spring will not change this. But, having the right spring for your weight is still a good idea.

Grashopr · 07-30-2009, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TripleThreat

The stock rear spring on the 675 is not a rising rate spring. The Daytona has a rising rate linkage. Changing the spring will not change this. But, having the right spring for your weight is still a good idea.

Have you reminded me of this before? For some reason I feel like I've been embarassed over this subject before... if I remember right, I went down fighting last time, holding on to my 'guns' that the spring was 'INDEED' a rising rate, and ended up getting schooled.

I think this time I'll try to skip that part and just say that 'to my knowledge', the stock rear spring is a rising rate spring. I may be wrong (and most likely am), but if I am, that's all the more reason to get a correct spring.

jklnhd · 07-30-2009, 07:03 PM

Well, whatevers back there, thanks for the info again

Checkin it out now. They're actually tellin me to go down from stock rate. A lot, actually lower than the lowest they got (yes, I see it says go with the closest).

Hi-Frequency Response Race Rebound Gold Valve < Not really sure why I need this, but it sounds badass.

roffe_s · 08-07-2009, 02:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jklnhd

...I get how to adjust it, but where should it be (stock)?
I'm trying to get everything back to factory looks/settings...

Stock settings for spring preload is 5 threads showing above the spring collars.

The OEM spring was measured to about 12.4 N/mm by a member on t675.net, linear. Racetechs calculator seems to suggest too soft spring, most people as well as the aftermarket shock companys choose 1 - 2 steps harder springs compared to the racetech recommendations.

As an example, I'm about 90-95 kg in gear and have an 11 N/mm spring fitted on my WP reduced with about 5% by custom linkage plates.

So for the stocker at my weight, I would go for a spring stiffnes of about 10 N/mm. My bike is used a lot on the track, but is also ran on the bumpy back roads of my countryside.

A rough estimate for the SAG when dialing the suspension in would be 25-30 mm for the rear and 30-35 front.

Good luck with Your modifications

jklnhd · 08-07-2009, 06:36 PM

Sweet deal, thanks

I've been playing with the settings except for rear preload (don't have the tool). Still a little soft in the rear.

roffe_s · 08-13-2009, 04:22 AM

Most of us start with the preload to set the bike geometry, then syncronize the rebound and compression settings front and rear.

FYI - Here is a good video of Dave Moss, setting up a Gixx.

Good luck with Your tuning

Quote:

Originally Posted by jklnhd

Sweet deal, thanks

I've been playing with the settings except for rear preload (don't have the tool). Still a little soft in the rear.