Triumphrat

04-23-2005, 12:50 AM

Greetings- I need help in tracking down a problem with my '95 Daytona 1200. This bike has close to 30,000 miles and I have owned it since new. It has always been dead reliable - and always without exception starts right up. The only time I had starting problems was when the battery was going bad -for a long time I didn't realize it and it would only start intermittently - of course when I changed the battery it started right up first time every time again.

I just got done with a major tune-up - and also removed the swingarm for cleaning and greasing - I was into the bike pretty good but did not disturb anything I didn't have to.

I went to start it in order to sync the carbs - it turned over a little bit and then nothing - the starter button got hard and lost its "spring" - I got in there and saw that the copper spring was totally compressed - I pulled it out a bit to elongate it again, put it back together and tried the starter button again - this time I could smell something hot - and the button went hard again (compressed spring) - so I surmise what is happening is the spring is getting very hot and basically melting down and losing its...er.."spring".

Now I went to look further - down stream from the swtich...

I noticed that the neutral light is staying on even when the bike is put into gear. I pulled the connector to the neutral sensor and cleaned it - it was already clean - and it is still staying on when put in gear. I then grounded the lead wire - still stayed on. The wiring diagram shows this is in series with the side stand switch, oil sensor and also what is called that starter cut out switch - but I have no idea where that is or what it looks like? The diagram shows it right near the left handlebar switch so maybe it is under the dash panel? The manual does not show it's location.

I started to take off the side stand to check the switch there - but it is enclosed solid and I don't know how to bypass it without cutting the wires? I had lubed the prong and it seems to be working okay.

Then, just to see if the starter was working I jumped from the positive battery lead to the solenoid starter lead (essentially just putting current to the starter lead) and the starter turns over just fine.

The ground strap and other wires joining at the starter bolt mount are all clean without corrosion. The bike is kept clean and does not have much corrosion anywhere - has not seen much wet weather at all.

Should I jump across the starter solenoid to test it? How to do it?

I don't know if it is related but for many years the tachometer has been intermittent - it will work sometimes and sometimes not - I tried swapping out for a new one and the problem was still there - I have never pursued trying to track down the problem since then.

Any ideas, tips, advice on where to look further would be greatly appreciated. My email is brethittleman@yahoo.com.

Thanks in advance -

trypcil · 04-23-2005, 12:30 PM

Under the clutch lever there is the cut out switch, these are generic items - I sourced one at a Yamaha dealer. Tach's typically go intermittent with a coil issue - clean all spade connectors on the coils, both male a female - if that does'nt clean up the tach, try switching coils to see if perhaps there is a failure there. Some Suzuki switch gear( starter button) is interchangeable with that era of Triumph - check your local salvage yard - maybe you'll find a cut off switch(clutch position) there too - suggest mid to late 90's - you may find it easier to get the whole right hand throttle/switch assembly - cost about $10. If the bike starts when you jump the solenoid chances are it's ok - I had similar starting issues at one time, at a valve services my dealer ripped out the whole cut-out wiring system, problem solved but that was my bike. Try cleaning all connectors to solenoid, battery etc... - I have noticed that these bikes both 3 & 4 cyl bikes if left standing with battery connected seem to develop similar issues - since, I find myself pulling the battery when storing bike for any time over 2 weeks and placing it on a trickle charger so any residual current does'nt cause electrolysis due to moisture at connectors, but that's my empirical experience - perhaps a logical fallacy! With the removal of the cut out circuitry the neutral light will still function. I hate these electrical problems they are quite annoying - so I hope I've been of some assistance - perhaps another more knowledgeable can assist too - good luck!
:hammer: :razz:

04-23-2005, 03:09 PM

Thanks trypcil for your info on the clutch lever switch.

When I pull in the clutch lever the neutral light acts like normal - that is it goes on when in neutral and off when in gear. I took the switch off and doused it in electrical cleaner - put it back on and the neutral light still stays on without pulling the clutch lever even when in gear.

I noticed a clicking sound from the solenoid if the bike is in gear and I pull in the clutch lever.

This is very frustrating as I keep melting down starter button springs - I guess I will not try to use the starter button until I fix this neutral light issue.

I am thinking now that you are right and the clutch lever switch is broke?

04-23-2005, 03:09 PM

Thanks trypcil for your info on the clutch lever switch.

When I pull in the clutch lever the neutral light acts like normal - that is it goes on when in neutral and off when in gear. I took the switch off and doused it in electrical cleaner - put it back on and the neutral light still stays on without pulling the clutch lever even when in gear.

I noticed a clicking sound from the solenoid if the bike is in gear and I pull in the clutch lever.

This is very frustrating as I keep melting down starter button springs - I guess I will not try to use the starter button until I fix this neutral light issue.

I am thinking now that you are right and the clutch lever switch is broke?