Triumphrat

04-07-2005

Hello All!

First post here, and glad I found this place! I'm a relatively new rider and found myself in a 96 Daytona 1200 that I love. Great bike to start on, right? I just turned 5000 total miles on the ride!

So my dilemma... The bike is stalling, and it doesn't want to start right back up (it will w/ a jump). Here is the catch, it isn't stalling when colder, it's kicking out when cruising on the highway! Yesterday, 1st time out for the season, I enjoyed a few back roads for about 20 minutes, then hit the highway home. Almost home, I have a total loss of power and the bike is dead. Will crank but not start, starts later when help arrives with some jumper cables. (Battery near dead now)

This happened once before when moving to my new place across town, also on the highway after riding about 40 minutes total. Thankfully it starts back up as help wasn't around.

Now I can understand this thing being tempermental when cold and such, but it was running perfect first off! Anyone have an issue like this? Any suggestions? I'd like to get it handled myself because if I get it to the dealer, I may have to leave in one of those new 650s...

Apologies for such a long first post, but I need help. It's not cool when you start losing confidence in yoru ride!

Thanks,
CJG

trophyrider00 · 04-07-2005

Next time it stalls, try cracking open the fuel cap and see if it will restart. Sounds like it's vapor locking.

roy005 · 04-07-2005

Trophyrider could be right about the vapor locking. You will have to double check the fuel, air and spark systems.
Could be any one of several things easy to fix. Was the bike in storage long with old gas in the tank? Check that all wiring is dry & tight. I think ignition coils have been a source of problems on other Triumphs of this vintage. Check the airbox too. If the bike has spent a lot of time sitting (5000 miles on a '96) the airbox makes a cozy nest for field mice. Get a Haynes manual for this bike and run through the trouble shooting section in the back.
These are great bikes and pretty reliable, a real locomotive. Oh and welcome!

04-07-2005

Thanks for the quick replys!

Haynes Manual... D'Oh Ordering one now.

Now time for my ignorance, what's "Vaporlock"? And 2, I don't think that's it yet, as one of the first things I checked when it stalled was to visually check the gas. However, the battery did seem a "little" weak on the re-start attempt so maybe I'm not getting enough spark/juice?

Sounds like I'm going to get to know my bike underneath those shiny black fairings real soon, and with a relatively new battery, this had better not be the problem!

Keep the thoughts coming, I'd love to hear a "BTDT"

04-07-2005

Thanks for the quick replys!

Haynes Manual... D'Oh Ordering one now.

Now time for my ignorance, what's "Vaporlock"? And 2, I don't think that's it yet, as one of the first things I checked when it stalled was to visually check the gas. However, the battery did seem a "little" weak on the re-start attempt so maybe I'm not getting enough spark/juice?

Sounds like I'm going to get to know my bike underneath those shiny black fairings real soon, and with a relatively new battery, this had better not be the problem!

Keep the thoughts coming, I'd love to hear a "BTDT"

roy005 · 04-07-2005

Vapor lock is when gas actually overheats and boils inside the carb bowls of a hot engine. The gas stops flowing. After it sits and cools down you can restart the engine. You can check the cooling system (coolant quality and level, flush & refill system, thermostat) to see if something is causing it to run too hot.
Is the temp gauge indicating overheating before you lose power and stall? Does the cooling fan cycle on & off when the engine starts to get too hot? Also, check all condition and routing of vacum hoses and the fuel line between the tank and the carbs. I still think it's something relatively simple to fix once properly diagnosed.
You are coming up on the 6,000 mile service interval (check the download section on this website for these bikes) If all else fails bring it in a little early. At 9 years of age with just 5,000 miles it may be worth the $ of a thorough going over by a good Triumph tech to service it.

roy005 · 04-07-2005

Vapor lock is when gas actually overheats and boils inside the carb bowls of a hot engine. The gas stops flowing. After it sits and cools down you can restart the engine. You can check the cooling system (coolant quality and level, flush & refill system, thermostat) to see if something is causing it to run too hot.
Is the temp gauge indicating overheating before you lose power and stall? Does the cooling fan cycle on & off when the engine starts to get too hot? Also, check all condition and routing of vacum hoses and the fuel line between the tank and the carbs. I still think it's something relatively simple to fix once properly diagnosed.
You are coming up on the 6,000 mile service interval (check the download section on this website for these bikes) If all else fails bring it in a little early. At 9 years of age with just 5,000 miles it may be worth the $ of a thorough going over by a good Triumph tech to service it.

kaosj · 04-07-2005

Because the battery seems to be drained after riding, and it should be charged, you ought to rule out the alternator as a problem. Start the engine, place a good multimeter on the battery terminals, and when you rev the engine above 3K you should see between 13.5 and 15 volts on the multimeter. This means your alternator is trying to charge the battery. If you see more than 15 it may be your voltage regulator, if you see less than 13.5 it may be your altenator. Another piece to check is that your ground is clean and tight. Its on the cross bar under your set behind the battery.

kaosj · 04-07-2005

Because the battery seems to be drained after riding, and it should be charged, you ought to rule out the alternator as a problem. Start the engine, place a good multimeter on the battery terminals, and when you rev the engine above 3K you should see between 13.5 and 15 volts on the multimeter. This means your alternator is trying to charge the battery. If you see more than 15 it may be your voltage regulator, if you see less than 13.5 it may be your altenator. Another piece to check is that your ground is clean and tight. Its on the cross bar under your set behind the battery.

TrumpetSprint · 04-08-2005

Just a thought, considering the low mileage and relative age.

Shortly after recieving my Sprint, new, the bike ran finefor a couple of weeks but then wouldn't restart after a short stop (to pick up some wax for my baby). Called the dealer and he suggested checking the battery terminals. Disconnected the wires scraped a small amount of oxides off the terminals (I think I used my fingernail), reconnected the wires and the bike fired up and the problem never resurfaced again. The oxide layer may prevent your battery from recharging properly, thus causing your problem. Won't restart on its own, but will with a jump.

Also the 1200 Trophys around here (Florida, always warm) have had similar problems and it seems to be related to the vacuum line kinking. Although they usually run longer than you are before the problem occurs.