Triumphrat

TrumpetSprint · 04-08-2005

Just a thought, considering the low mileage and relative age.

Shortly after recieving my Sprint, new, the bike ran finefor a couple of weeks but then wouldn't restart after a short stop (to pick up some wax for my baby). Called the dealer and he suggested checking the battery terminals. Disconnected the wires scraped a small amount of oxides off the terminals (I think I used my fingernail), reconnected the wires and the bike fired up and the problem never resurfaced again. The oxide layer may prevent your battery from recharging properly, thus causing your problem. Won't restart on its own, but will with a jump.

Also the 1200 Trophys around here (Florida, always warm) have had similar problems and it seems to be related to the vacuum line kinking. Although they usually run longer than you are before the problem occurs.

04-08-2005

Thanks for all the help guys!

I will have to check the alternator/regulator, thaks for the tip on that.

OK, I doubt vapor lock as I wasn't having any overheating issues and the fans do cycle, yet the symptoms are near identical. I will check the coolant and such anyway of course!

Vacume lines could use a check... I recently had a grounding issue when I purchased the bike, it would always require a jump to get going, but would eventually drain the battery when shut down. Collins Cycle (great guy) looked at it and diagnosed faulty ground(s?) and bum battery. Both were addressed and seemed to solve the problem back then. Basically, a 6000 mile service was performed then and the bike had ~4750 on the clock.

On a similar note, the fuel petcock is a mess... It doesn't like to turn (fairing interference), and the 2 labled flanges on the side of the lever are broken off. Not to mention it's not even close to lining up with the "arrow". Studying the valve itself, i'm 95% certain I have it in the "on" position. Which way is "off" and "reserve"?

I've never really understood why you can switch between the on and reserve when you have a fuel light!

Thanks for all the help... I can see myself visiting here daily, along with "Rennlist" and "VW Vortex"... good thing the boss is cool!

04-08-2005

Thanks for all the help guys!

I will have to check the alternator/regulator, thaks for the tip on that.

OK, I doubt vapor lock as I wasn't having any overheating issues and the fans do cycle, yet the symptoms are near identical. I will check the coolant and such anyway of course!

Vacume lines could use a check... I recently had a grounding issue when I purchased the bike, it would always require a jump to get going, but would eventually drain the battery when shut down. Collins Cycle (great guy) looked at it and diagnosed faulty ground(s?) and bum battery. Both were addressed and seemed to solve the problem back then. Basically, a 6000 mile service was performed then and the bike had ~4750 on the clock.

On a similar note, the fuel petcock is a mess... It doesn't like to turn (fairing interference), and the 2 labled flanges on the side of the lever are broken off. Not to mention it's not even close to lining up with the "arrow". Studying the valve itself, i'm 95% certain I have it in the "on" position. Which way is "off" and "reserve"?

I've never really understood why you can switch between the on and reserve when you have a fuel light!

Thanks for all the help... I can see myself visiting here daily, along with "Rennlist" and "VW Vortex"... good thing the boss is cool!

04-28-2005

(BUMP)

OK, so no Haynes manual yet, but using my owners manual, I can do some simple diagnostics here...

I have the tank and rear/side fairings off, and intend to also check my spark plugs while I'm in there. Looking at the guidance in this post, it really seems like I may have a Vacume leak.

1st, On the fuel valve, I am assuming that I have not 1 but 2 fuel lines? They were messily disconnected! Attached to this was a vacum line that was TORN. Looks like its a simple silicone/rubber hose that goes to some sort of valve/sensor. Could I of already fround my stalling issue?

I also noticed some lines going to "valves" on the top central frame tube. These look like fittings just "venting" in the upwards direction. Should there be something hooked up here?

Otherwise, in checking the vacume lines, where else should I be looking? As mentioned before, the grounds will be re-fitted and sparkplugs all checked out. What else should I have a look at while I'm in there?

Thanks again ya'll, this message board has been a great help!

05-02-2005

(BUMP TO TOP)

Update, still need some guidance.

The torn vacum line from the fuel valve/tank attaches to the 3rd (from left) carburator top. The first 2 are capped on this nipple and the 4th is open.

Now why on earth would there be a vacum line from the fuel valve to only 1 carb?

And are there any other more "hidden" vacum lines I should chase while I'm in there?

kaosj · 05-02-2005

The fuel tap needs only one vacumn line, its pulled off the end carb. The vacumn opens the fuel tap when the engine is running(vacumn) and closes it when the engine is off(no vacumn). You can test to see if the vacumn line is a problem by dialing to the fuel tap "PRI" when the problem occurs, this bypasses the vacumn and allows gas to flow regardless. The problem is leaving it on "PRI" with the engine off still allows fuel to flow and the only thing stopping your crankcase from filling with gas is the needle valve shutoff in your carbs which do the job most of the time. Here's a post explaining it better

old post

Hinckley · 05-02-2005

The last one should be capped off as well.

05-03-2005

Whooooo Hoooo!

Thanks so much, that link you (kaosj) posted is IT! (Saving in the Favorites now)

I'll be all back together and on 2 wheels this Wednesday thanks to all your help.

Regards,
~Chris in Pgh.

adepackett · 05-05-2005

the ignition pick up fails a lot on the carb bikes........check the resistance when its hot and broke down!!!!!if it reads 0 then thats your trouble..........ive replaced a lot of those buggers in my day let me tell ya!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

adepackett · 05-05-2005

the ignition pick up fails a lot on the carb bikes........check the resistance when its hot and broke down!!!!!if it reads 0 then thats your trouble..........ive replaced a lot of those buggers in my day let me tell ya!!!!!!!!!!!!!!