Triumphrat

Allegiance955 · 08-13-2008, 12:38 AM

my tail lights and instrument cluster would dim and flicker at idle, including stop lights and when i was applying throttle .

Last night the instrument cluster went dead, and the tach and speedo went blank but they were still illuminated green and the bike was still running fine untill then suddenly the bike started running horribile and performing in an ugly way....i pulled over and called my dad to be picked up. IM SO THANKFUL!

i replaced the battery and the flickering and dimming of the instrument cluster and the tail light completly stopped......for some reason i had a feeling to check the fuses and the ignition fuse was totally melted. i managed to get the fuse out of the fuse box and installed another fuse. The new fuse gets really really hot as well the wire coming from the rectifier ,go figure. haha

CAN ANYONE PLEASE GIVE ME THE SPECS OF THE VOLTAGE/AMPS COMING FROM THE RECTIFIER AS WELL AS THE STATOR/ALTERNATOR.

ITS A 2004 DAYTONA 955i

DEcosse · 08-13-2008, 03:47 AM

Follow the same troubleshooting as outlined in this thread - although this was different model the systems are essentially the same,
Yours does sound the Regulator/Rectifier - but follow all the checks as outlined. If the R/R goes, there is also potential for the stator to burn up.

Allegiance955 · 08-14-2008, 12:24 AM

okay so i tested the R/R as well as the stator. and these are my results

Battery measuered 12.4V

R/R while bike is off
Wire 1 RED/BLACK= 12.4V
Wire 2 RED/BLACK= 12.4V

R/R while bike was on
Wire 1RED/BLACK = 14.6
Wire 2 RED/BLACK= 14.6

Stator while bike was off
measured 0

while bike was on

wires measured 6.7, 6.0, 6.3, 6.7

around 3,000 revs measured 5.1
around 4,000 revs measured 4.8
around 5,000 revs measured 4.7/4.6

while measureing R/R ,the wires to the battery were extremely hot...i even burnt my thumb cuz they were so damn hot....even the actual R/R was giving off some serious heat and once again my tail light instrument cluster started to dim and flicker also the ignition fuse was extremly hot too!

WHAT DO YOU THINK?

DEcosse · 08-14-2008, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allegiance955

R/R while bike was on
Wire 1RED/BLACK = 14.6
Wire 2 RED/BLACK= 14.6

14.6 sounds good! What do you measure across the battery with in this condition? (i.e. while it's running)

Check fuses 2 & 3 - make sure both are good!

Quote:

Stator while bike was off
measured 0
while bike was on
wires measured 6.7, 6.0, 6.3, 6.7

around 3,000 revs measured 5.1
around 4,000 revs measured 4.8
around 5,000 revs measured 4.7/4.6

Are you measuring AC volts here?
Why do you have 4 measurements in the first line - what does each of the 4 refer to?

gospeed81 · 08-14-2008, 07:56 AM

yours is doing the exact same thing mine did

I had actually order the rectifier AND a stator just for kicks. When I found the stator part I had ordered wouldn't fit I decided to try rewiring the portion of the harness that goes from rectifier to battery as outlined in a thread on here (will update with link if boss walks away long enough).

It fixed it. Without replacing any parts, voltage and current went up to acceptable levels. Made all the difference in the world. Also cured some lag in throttle response (my gauges flickered too).

For $10 it wouldn't hurt to try. I'm not sure why no one else has mentioned it, as ten people told me when I outlined the exact same symptoms and readings.

Cheers and good luck,

Damon

DEcosse · 08-14-2008, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gospeed81

.......
I had actually order the rectifier AND a stator just for kicks. When I found the stator part I had ordered wouldn't fit ....

Let me guess - you ordered from ElectroSport
I told them 18 months ago that their "one size fits all" stator is not accurate and the Daytona has a different part than the Speed Triple. But they are still promoting the same garbage story.

Back to your suggestion - I definitely am an advocate for the charge wiring modification - but there is a problem that should be resolved first.
Since in this case the output measured at the R/R is good I seriously suspect the fuse - and also in your case,gospeed81, if you were able to fix it purely by doing the mod that also says it was most likely simply your fuse that was blown.
The mod certainly improves your charging voltage at the battery, but is not a cure for something failed in the sysytem. The std system without mod should not create a situation where voltage sags & lights flicker.

lesterg · 08-14-2008, 10:58 AM

Mod mentioned by GOSPEED

http://www.triumphrat.net/daytona-de...-solution.html

Could solve your issue

gospeed81 · 08-14-2008, 06:12 PM

Oh yeah, I also cleaned my grounds, tightened everything, and added an extra ground to subframe for good measure. Put in a real fuse as well. The mod still gave me real numbers, that actually showed the system putting a charge on the battery, instead of just barely maintaining system voltage. I might end up having to still replace something, but I hope not, so far, so good.

If I do end up replacing a stator or rect/reg though, I certainly won't use bikebandit/electrosport again. Talk about slow. I almost ended up grinding rear disc waiting for the stinking brake pads to come in.

Allegiance955 · 08-14-2008, 10:20 PM

gospeed81,

you should check out this site Scott Pearsons who is the sales manager really helped me out and was able to ship the R/R to me in about 4 days.....

shoot him an e-mail or something...plus the R/R was cheapest I found on the net!!!!

www.regulatorrectifier.com
E-MAIL = info@regulatorrectifier.com

hope this helps!!!!!

oh and i'll let you know the status of my bike and the out put again....

DEcosse thank you for your help, here shortly im gonna try that mod and see what happens....oh and i followed the wire to the fuse box its super corroded...and when the bike is running that wire and the 2 clips one from the R/R connecting to the fuse box wire gets super hot...is it supposed to do that?

DEcosse · 08-15-2008, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allegiance955

g
www.regulatorrectifier.com

Looking at their stators, it sure looks like an Electrosport item & they too are promoting the 'one size fits all' story - simply not true.

Quote:

....oh and i followed the wire to the fuse box its super corroded...and when the bike is running that wire and the 2 clips one from the R/R connecting to the fuse box wire gets super hot...is it supposed to do that?

That sounds like it may be the source of your problem - even though the fuse appears good, it may be the poor connectivity from that corroded wire that is creating high resistance and limiting your charging performance. The energy from the stator has to go somewhere and will be dissipated in the R/R itself as well as the load - if there is a high resistance connection of that wire to the fuse box, it will drop voltage & get very hot as you have found.

Just do the simple test for me please - you measured 14.6V at the R/R connector - in the same mode, with engine running, what is across the battery? That will tell you how much loss you are getting from the R/R output to the fusebox & battery.

It sounds like doing the mod will most likely cure your problem - but principally because your OEM wiring is actually bad.