Hi, I have a 2005 model Daytona 955i, which has recently developed a fault. It blows the 30 amp main charge fuse. The first time was about 10 days ago, after a forty mile ride in the rain and a quick coffee stop I traveled a further 10 miles or so in dry weather when the instrument panel went blank. The engine continued to run ok, after a further 4 or 5 miles I wanted to turn left, the indicator wouldn't work and as I pulled in the clutch to change down the engine died.
I found the main charge fuse had overheated and blown and the battery dead. After replacing the fuse the battery recovered enough after 10 minutes or so for the instruments to work again, but would not turn over the engine. The engine started fine with a battery boost and ran fine for a further 10 miles before blowing again. A further fuse and a bump start saw a further 2 or 3 miles another blown fuse. This time I got the bike recovered.
I charged the battery over night, it started first time and I rode it the few miles to the Triumph dealer without incident. The Agents found no fault and carried out a 25 mile road test without fault. I collected the bike and did a further 50 miles, again without fault.
Yesterday I travelled the 50 or so miles to Oulton Park for the BSB races, again without and problems. On leaving after the last race I rode in heavy traffic though back lanes to the main road, the fuse failed as I reached the main road and the engine died almost almost straight away.
After getting the bike off the road I found the fuse badly overheated and blown but plenty of life in the battery. I got the bike recovered.
The Bike is totally standard apart from a power lead for my Autocom system, this is fitted straight to the battery and has a 5amp inline fuse. The Alternator and rectifier both check out fine as does the battery.
I would be grateful if anyone has any suggestions.

So I guess nobody has any ideas............

Is this fuse #2 or fuse #3 that is blowing?
If it's fuse #2 pretty much has to be stator/regulator related - if the regulator itself seems fine, potentially the stator breaking down on one of the windings & shorting to ground intermittantly.
If fuse #3, then could be almost anything on the bike - again possibly a harness that is trapped somewhere & shorting to frame.

__________________
GSXR 1000 Front End Swap

Would deteriorating connections in the harness itself create enough resistance to cause this?

__________________

Quote:

Wombat wrote: Don't confuse education with intelligence. There are alot of highly educated idiots out there.

I spent some time in my dealers workshop today, as they are really scratching there heads over this. At tickover fuse 2 (Charge fuse) is drawing 32 amps, as revs are increased this drops a little to 28 or 29 amps, so a draw of about 400 watts. The regulator has been changed. The Alternator checks out fine. The dealer has phoned the factory, waiting for a reply when I left

Can they tell you which direction current is flowing?
i.e. 32A from Regulator to battery or battery to regulator?

I would consider hooking up a different battery to see what that does to current draw.

__________________
GSXR 1000 Front End Swap

Amp meter was fitted in place of the No2 fuse. A substitute battery was tried, no change to the readings. I'm just wondering if upgrading the cables from the regulator to the battery will help to lower the ampes

What is battery voltage with bike off & running?

It would be really good to know which direction that 32A is flowing!

If the test is repeated with the amp meter on fuse 3 instead of fuse 2 what does it read?
If fuse 3 reads the same, then start pulling fuses to find out where all the current is going.

I realize you probably aren't there at shop but these would be good things to check.

__________________
GSXR 1000 Front End Swap

Battery voltage after repeated starting was 12.6 -12.7 and at tick over around 13.7v. I don't know which way the amp's were flowing but the pos lead of the meter was in the front or forward fuse connector, and giving a positive reading. 7 amps from the Right Hand headlight fuse on dip beam (55 watts). 10 amps for the left hand headlight fuse. Cant remember the others at the moment. I'll get back to you later.

peter

Hi
I have a very similar problem, (as to several othres looking around the net).
Mine started when I left the bike turned on and screwed the battery. I charged it but when I took it for a ride next day the bike died. First the speedo and then the engine. Turned out the fuse had melted into a right mess which wasn't easy to get out it was that bad.

Fully charged the battery, changed the fuse - same thing happened. Bought a new battery and put a new fuse on it ran ok for a while.

Put the bike in the garage for a few weeks and made the mistake of not regularly charging it up (maybe once a month) with the alarm draining power. Same thing - battery died so I just bought another one. Same thing is happening now though - melt down on the fuse.

now though it seems to have stopped charging - battery voltage is only at 12v with the engine running and the battery dies after a few minutes of running the headlights and the bike.

Not sure where to look next - found this useful and will do some testing tomorrow -

http://www.t595.net/messageboard/thr...ght=fuse+burnt

I will look back here too and see what happens - If i get any joy i'll let you know.

Rick
daytona955i - 2006