Triumphrat

2003Daytona 955iBLK · 04-01-2008, 04:49 PM

I'm slowly getting my bike in the performance catagory that I like, but the gearing is so tall... I want a little more tourqe in the lower RPM range in 1st & 2nd gear... Any Ideas on new sproket sizes???

MQracing · 04-01-2008, 05:11 PM

I generally see one of two recommendations made when this question comes up.

First--- drop from the 18 tooth on the front down to 17 tooth. And leave the rear sprocket alone.

Second--- keep the 18 tooth up front and go to a 45 tooth rear.

MSL

nycdread · 04-02-2008, 12:03 AM

I would recommend going down 1 tooth in the front to 17. You don't have to change your chain, unless its worn and needs to be changed anyway.

I'm not sure if you have to change your chain if you go up a tooth in the rear.

lemansnz · 04-02-2008, 01:54 AM

I went down one tooth up front and like it.
More zip though the gears and 1st is not as tall.

jrelloway · 04-02-2008, 07:33 PM

How much does this kind of work cost aprox...Parts generally? And how long would it take a tech to do this kind of work since I don't have the equipment to even change a battery yet. I just moved to Oregon from Kentucky and had to sell all my tools for the move for extra cash (ARGH!!!!!!!!!).

lemansnz · 04-03-2008, 03:36 AM

Well Jrelloway it should not cost to much to get the shop to do it.
It would only be 1/4 to 1/2 of labour and a front sprocket.
They may all so put a new lock washer on as well.

To do it your self you will need the "C" spanner if you have a single sided swing arm.
A large socket to undo the front sprocket nut (OTTOMH it is a 36mm) and a torque wrench a smaller 17mm socket to loosen and to adjust the chain.
You need to do up the 17mm bolt to 55Nm and the I think 36mm nut to 132 Nm
And have the chain with 35-40mm of slack.
This is the short version and just enough to give you the idea and not a step by step how to do.

If you have sold all or most of your tools I think that you would not have all the tools you need to do the job.

As I had to buy the larger socket and a bigger torque wrench and I have more than a few tools.
But never thought I would need truck size sockets to work on a bike.

:

rickster · 04-03-2008, 12:35 PM

James; I went down 1 in the front and up two in the rear, but will probably put the stock front back on as A, the motor feels a little "busy" at freeway speeds and B, the stock front has the rubber cushioning on it that reduces/eliminates vibration and noise. Besides, after the Tuneboy remap it has plenty of grunt. PM or call me; when you get ready we can do the swap here in my shop. I'll give you my 17T front sprocket cheap!
I'm only about 1 1/2 hrs. south of you.

Rick

MQracing · 04-03-2008, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickster

James; I went down 1 in the front and up two in the rear, but will probably put the stock front back on as A, the motor feels a little "busy" at freeway speeds ...

Besides, after the Tuneboy remap it has plenty of grunt.

So you were using a 17/44 combo? Which is a ratio of about 2.59:1.

I've been debating going to a 18/45 combo which is a ratio of 2.50:1.

I was favoring keeping the 18 tooth front so as not to accelerate wear on the rub blocks.

But the bigger question I've thought about is "would I be better off in going with the tuneboy and a stronger midrange tune" and leave the gearing stock?

Which tune did you use? was it one of the "massive midrange" tunes?

My complaint with the stock gearing (18/42) has been twofold. One is that at about 70mph I'm only in fourth gear and about 4 to 5 thousand R's. And the bike just doesn't seem to be happy there---

It would be nice to be able to get some wear on fifth and sixth gear and keep the engine in a happy spot and keep the speedo somewhere south of 90 mph.

MSL