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Miroslav, It's funny about the timing of your post. I just finished hooking everything up last night, but it was too late in the evening to fire it up. Here's what I did:
1. Bought some small probes and made up a couple of leads. One of these backprobes the output wire from the TPS, and connects to channel 2 of the LM-1 rpm converter. It's secured with tape.
2. Another backprobes the trigger wire for the coil on the #3 cylinder. The other end of this wire connects to a dedicated terminal on the rpm converter to pick up rpm. This one is secured with tape as well.
3. The rpm converter comes with 2 analog outputs, and channel #1 is already configured to emulate the output from the stock O2 sensor. They supply a 3-conductor cable that plugs into a port on the LM-1. I removed (delicately!) the O2 sensor wire from the harness connector where the stock O2 sensor is plugged in. The red wire in the LM-1 analog cable is connected to this (black) wire, using yet another probe, filed down to fit into the female terminal in the harness side connector) and then the stock sensor is reconnected. Thus, the heating circuit for the stock sensor is maintained, preventing a fault code, and the ECU gets its O2 sensor feedback from the LM-1. The LM-1 is really pretty easy to set up (it has to be for me to do it!) and comes with a pretty good manual.
The whole mess is then gently stuffed into the under seat area and wrapped up in some shipping wrap.
I plan to run it this afternoon as soon as I finish some pesky job paperwork. I did power it up last night and I'm getting TPS feedback, so at least part of it works.
In my opinion it's best to tune for best power as opposed to best Lambda or A/F ratio, so I would prefer to set this thing up on a rolling-load dyno with a 4 gas analyzer. However, by the time I paid someone to do that for me, who may or may not do it right, I would have covered the cost of the Tune Boy setup and the LM-1.
Stay tuned for the results of the first test run!
__________________
"The older I get, the faster I was".
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