Triumphrat

kyleduncan

I'm trying to order a new starter clutch for my '97. The dealer says they need the engine number, but when i ask them where it is, they are of no help at all. Can anyone enlighten me?

Thanks,

DEcosse

It's on top of the clutch assembly - see these pics below to guide you in.







p.s. Sprag Clutch is a fairly common failure on early T5's - not a trivial replacement - engine-out / split-cases proposition

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T'Rat.net BOTM November 2009

kyleduncan

Thanks so much, and thanks for not bringing attention to my stupidity.

I think maybe if my top end wasn't sitting on blocks upside down, i might have been able to find that on my own. Now i think it may take me a while before i gather up enough courage to come back round here

DEcosse

I don't think it's that obvious so no shame there - sorry forgot to welcome you on your inaugural post! Now you've found us be sure to visit regularly.
I'm sure that there are many who would appreciate a photo-doc as you replace that beast - make for a nice contribution to the site.
Good luck with it - think about also replaceng your 4th gear while you have the cases apart!

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T'Rat.net BOTM November 2009

kyleduncan

I've put about 13,000 miles on it, 15,000 total. That **** starter clutch gave up at about 9000 miles... i think. I did a lot of push starting. Am i going to be replacing that piece of junk again?

Is forth gear a common problem gear? Am approaching the common failure point with my mileage? What actually happens to it. None of the dogs or teeth faces on any of my gears show any obvious signs of issues.

I'll definitely get some pics as it goes back together.

Thanks for your input.

DEcosse

The replacement Sprag clutch is apparently much stronger - the later 98-1/2+ & on models did not suffer from this problem.
Yes, 'exploding' 4th gear is indeed another noted failure on your year - since you will already need to be in there, best to replace it too while it's apart. Again the replacement is much stronger item and again was resolved in susbsequent models, proving the point.
There is no particular mileage for these failures, some last many tens of thousands of miles while other have infant mortality. But both these items are well recorded common failures. But replacing them both now should eliminate any potential for future failure so you should not have to worry about doing either down the road.

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T'Rat.net BOTM November 2009

bradtx

kyleduncan, Sprag clutch failure is fairly common to all brands. The best way around it is to ensure a strong battery.

DEcosse, Do you have a pic of your original emission cannister's connections? Turns out the T595 is a California model and all of my connections dry rotted, split and came undone leaving a rat's nest jumble atop the transmission. TIA

Brad

DEcosse

Hi Brad - that's too bad - I'm normally a pack rat but didn't see much re-use for that stuff & junked it all when I changed out the motor. I should have at least offered it up FOC for anyone who wanted it.

Anyhoo - your best bet is to go to BikeBandit - the parts fiche has pretty clear diagram of how it all goes together. (actually the same diagram that is in the service manual)

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T'Rat.net BOTM November 2009

bradtx

Thanks, DEcosse. That's the one that I have and I'm just trying to ensure the cannister end with three ports gets connected properly the first attempt. The only connection that survived is the manifold to the IAC...at least it ran well!

Brad

DEcosse

Canister connections not critical Brad - that is just for the emissions side of things, won't affect the idle control.
The critical connections (& quality of the hoses) would be for the lines to the throttle body from the idle control manifold, but even then I don't see it would make any difference in how they're connected from each TB. You could effectively plug the ports on the manifiold that hose 5 & 7 connect to & it would operate as expected.

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T'Rat.net BOTM November 2009