Triumphrat

RJScotti · 02-29-2008

I'm working on a 1050 Daytona and ran into a little trouble. The 1050 engine I have suffered some abuse from the previous owner and needs new linings. Research shows that the 06 Sprint ST used cast iron linings for the 1050 engine. I'm thinking to replace these with the Aluminum Daytona linings as specs to the laters 955's. Bore is the same (79mm). Just wondering if anyone here has an opinion about if they will seat in the 1050 block.

Here's a pic of the 1050 for your entertainment.

fivehundo · 02-29-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJScotti

I'm working on a 1050 Daytona and ran into a little trouble. The 1050 engine I have suffered some abuse from the previous owner and needs new linings. Research shows that the 06 Sprint ST used cast iron linings for the 1050 engine. I'm thinking to replace these with the Aluminum Daytona linings as specs to the laters 955's. Bore is the same (79mm). Just wondering if anyone here has an opinion about if they will seat in the 1050 block.

Here's a pic of the 1050 for your entertainment.

I would just replace it with a Cast iron sleeve instead of trying to use aluminum. Can the one that's in there now be bored out enough to use? I know it wouldn't actually be a 1050 anymore but maybe you could make a 1075 Daytona. That would match up with the 675 kinda nicely, don't you think?

Just a thought...

luiz · 02-29-2008

Interesting idea but:
How you plan to increase engine power output from nominal 125shp at 9250 rpm which is actually bellow 97-01 995 engines?
Torque is 104Nm at 5000 rpm, better than 955i engines with 100NM at 8200 rpm but by itself high torque at lower rpms are better for speed triple like bikes.
In theory if you rev the 1050 engine to 10700 rpm keeping compression ratio at 12:1 you can get 163shp, assuming air intakes and airbox will let the air mass flow pass through.
However, 160 shp will still be bellow current litter class bikes that are nearing 180 shp (Fireblade or GSX-R1000).
May be compression ratio will have to be increased to something like 13.5 to 1 by lowering the header and reshaping valve cans, no easy engineering task indeed;

doodledog · 03-01-2008

sounds like a lot of work for more low down torque but less performance, I would not go the 955 liner route but stay with the 1050 liners then look at other performance mods to get a higher rev limit and look at the gearing as with all that torque it should pull higher gearing? That motor looks like its had a rough time of it though, whats the bottom end like looks like its had a blown head gasket or just been stipped and left out in the rain.

RJScotti · 03-01-2008

I'm opening the bottom-end later this week. So far it looks like a head gasket since there are clean spots in the area around the valves. The ebay seller says they started it before removing from a wrecked bike. I'm doubtful. Thanks for the suggestions thought. I suppose the cast Iron would be fine if I can hone the outer two and replace the middle one. It sounds like a bunch of work but it's too cold to ride and my other bike projects are done. You can only polish chrome so long before you go crazy.

The aim isn't to make a go-faster race bike. This motor goes in a frankenstein bike made up of various parts. The 1050 doesn't replace a 955 it just goes in a spare frame I've got. I shopped for a salvage 1050 block to get the midrange from the newer S3 and Sprint. I've already got a complete stock 02 Daytona 955i CE so no need for another of those. This new monster will have GSXR forks and a 1050 that's tuned for the kind of riding I typically do... 1-4 hours, mostly < 50mph among the hills, curves, cows, and corn of rural Maryland. Oh and I think it should look like the 955 Daytona... Hard to beat that look.

Maybe I should be asking what color to paint it. I've heard the color accounts for much of the performance.

doodledog · 03-01-2008

you want speed you want Black, pootling around then go red or yellow

bradtx · 03-01-2008

RJScotti, One question I'd have is whether the D955i sleeves would need machining for crankshaft clearance.

Brad

RJScotti · 03-01-2008

Good point. The crank spins a bigger circle. Since it's bored lower in the block it's top should equal that of the 955. I suppose this could easily be answered if I could compare the sleeves. I'd rather not beak donw my 955 to get this info. Anyone have a loose sleeve they could do a quick measurement on?

Coroja · 03-10-2008

Looking at the shop manuals for the Sprint 2002 - 2004 models and the Sprint 2005 - on models, the later (1050) engine has smaller, by 6 mm crankshaft big end journals. This makes sense, instead of making a whole new crankshaft (expensive) Triumph just offset ground the journals to gain the relatively modest additional 9.1 mm of stroke (from 65 to 74.1). This is a common performance modification that was often used when rebuilding motors for hot rods. It isn't so common now, at least for American performance engines, because true stroker cranks are readily available. The bottom line is that the only clearance issues will be with the big ends of the rods and that should be minor. A quick way to tell would be to compare your existing liners to a 955 liner. Typically liners extend quite a bit below the lower limit of the stroke so grinding a little clearance isn't an issue.

Speaking of liner modifications, there is an opportunity for some free horsepower. At the upper end of the RPM range, the air trapped under the descending piston presents measurable resistance, the so-called "pumping losses". More recent engine designs frequently have semi-circular reliefs machined into bottom edges of the liners between each cylinder so that air under the descending pistons can easily migrate to the area under the adjacent ascending pistons. If you look at a picture of the engine internals of the 2008 Hayabusa, I believe most of the magazines showed this. This is a cheap and simple mod that any competent machine shop could do.

Any other parts you are replacing for which you can get exact dimensions, you might consider using an alternative part from a racing supplier as opposed to the OEM part from your Triumph dealer. A race part is certain to be manufactured to a far higher standard and often will have a performance advantage that isn't obvious. For example, Ferrea supplies valves that are back cut and swirl polished at no additional cost, which increases flow at low valve lift thereby broadening the power curve. I haven't looked through their catalog for valves to fit the Triumph head, but I know you can buy their valves for a small-block Chevy cheaper than you can buy a valve from your friendly Chevy dealer.

It does take a little work to find a part that fits and I guess you have to be a little adventurous, but the payoff is usually there for those that persevere.

Just a thought.