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Another stiff clutch thread

3K views 3 replies 2 participants last post by  Sacksofphones 
#1 · (Edited)
I have two Daytona 955i's. One is an '04, one is an '05 with an '06 engine. About a year ago, I dismantled the '06 clutch, trying to find out why it is so rattly on idle, until the lever is pulled in to the disengagement point. The rattle is much louder than the '04's clutch. The '06 clutch has a split drive gear on the clutch basket. I assume that is to lower the mechanical noise, but I don't think it really makes any difference. I didn't find anything, and reassembled the clutch. Here is where I think I made a mistake, and neglected to ensure that the pull rod rotated freely after I torqued the clutch spring bolts to 10Nm, before installing the clutch cover.
After a few months, I noticed that the lever action was no longer light and smooth the way it had been. The lever arm in the clutch cover needed to rotate further to disengage the clutch, and the last part of the movement felt rough at the clutch lever. Eventually I removed the clutch cover and found that the "corner" of the cut away in the shaft was quite rounded and missing some metal. The "mushroom" on the pull rod was missing some metal too. My dealer could not get me the same parts, only later part numbers, probably from the '11 1050 clutch. The new pull rod had a spiral groove to get oil into the space between it and the gearbox main shaft. The new lifter shaft did not have the roll pin for the spring, and the arm was about 10mm lower on the shaft. The spring engaged the arm directly, and the arm was bent upwards to raise the end 10mm to connect to the cable. I installed these new parts. This time I checked that the pull rod rotated freely in its bearing. It did have a bind, which I got rid of fixed by rotating the pressure plate relative to the spring retaining bolts a couple of times. The engagement point is back to normal, the action is smooth again, but it now takes about twice the force to pull the clutch. The length of the lifter arm is exactly the same as the old one.
After several months riding and 15000km, I want to fix this. I tried the clutch action on 1050s that use the same lifter arm. They have the same clutch but are much lighter to pull.
I can't explain this, but I intend to replace the lifter shaft with one like the old shaft. The original lifter had a flat arm with "12" stamped on it, and the longer shaft and roll pin, looks just like the one in my '04. That's the one I want. According to Bike Bandits, the '04 engine number 200358 has lifter shaft P/N T1170662. Bandits has P/N T1170683 for engines above 232539. My '06 engine is 257841.The '06 has the 1050 style clutch cover, the '04 has the cover with 3 screws. Perhaps that explains the different part numbers. Their illustration shows the roll pin with a bent lever arm. I want a roll pin with a straight lever. Can anyone verify the part number for me?
Thanks
IanB
 
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#3 · (Edited)
After more research, I learned that T1170662 is an earlier part number with a 28mm arm and '2' stamped on it. About 10 years ago I replaced one of those in my '02 Speed Triple with T1170664, which has a 40mm arm with '12' stamped on it. Both my Daytonas were built with the '12'. This seems to be no longer available, replaced with T1170683, with a 35mm stepped arm, the one I installed about a year ago.
I got a reasonable '12' lifter with a clutch cover I bought on Ebay. It was a bit worn on the edge that engages the pull rod, but not too badly. Tonight I installed it. Clutch action is smooth, definitely lighter, but still heavier than my '04 Daytona. This may be due to the '04 having clutch springs P/N T1170620, and the '06 having springs P/N T1171009. Maybe the T1171009 is a stronger spring?
I'll see how I go with this lifter. At least the '12', with the 40mm flat arm, is a good one to extend easily. I'll buy a set of the earlier springs too.
IanB
 
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