When my 2002 Daytona CE gets hot, when I try to restart it, it sounds like the starter is not grabbing all the way. If I let is sit for a while and cool down it eventually starts. It almost scared me off this falls trip to the Tail of the Dragon.
My BMW K13 had same issue. Oem wire gauge from starter switch-relay-to starter was inadequate and when hot the resistance was increased mimicking a low battery and hard/no restart till she cooled down. Solution was to run heavier gauge wire in parallel. Fixed problem.
This is very helpful. Thank you. I will implement the wire upgrade. If it is a sprang clutch, will it get progressively worst to failure to start, or will it continue to start at cool down?
I finally got around to the 4 Ga wire upgrade. $25.50 for 6' wire, 6 4ga x 1/4 " terminals and 6 solder pellets. Battery to relay, relay to starter, negative to block. Took 2.5 hours and 2 beers. Hoping it takes care of the hot restart problem. I will keep anyone watching with the same issue posted. What Pmoritt said about resistance when hot makes sense to me since it did not get worse and only happens wen very hot.
Hey Eric- I have the same bike (my twin lives in Charlotte, and he's fishing, while we're freezing), and I was wondering if you could post your lengths? I'd like to save as much time as possible, and cut them to length prior to the install.
Hello Ian,
Yes we are enjoying some great weather.
Unfortunately I did not measure but think I can still be helpful. 6' of cable was more than enough. I matched the length of the relay to starter cable and it is kinda long so used the cable and marked with my fingers and cut from there. There is probably not a foot between the relay and starter and really no need to cover it because the side plates do a good job of that. I went with all black 4Ga for both positive and negative side so it would blend. Then just use red heat shrink on the positive side to the battery. If you wanted to, you can cut them 2' each and you will be in great shape. The engine block to negative is about a foot apart, an extra foot to run on the coolant reservoir side. It came out nice like that. Battery to relay probably does not quite need 2' but the extra is not bad and easy to shape and hide.
The thing that no one said and I figured out (you probably would have) is that rather than cutting the relay to positive out of the harness and removing it, I just peeled it back a bit and clipped it at both ends and left it in the harness. You can keep the R/R charging wire in the harness and sit that terminal on top of the 4Ga you are adding, or clip that too and run a direct line from the R/R to the positive battery. That was easy since I already changed out mine for one off a zx14. For the negative side, can't have enough ground so I cleaned up the connection and ran the 4 Ga in addition to the ground that existed and did not have to mess with the harness at all.
I should mention, I did it to solve a hot restart issue, but wow what a difference in starter turn power. Noticeable right away. Should have done it sooner.
Also the relay pushes out of a rubber boot. Don't rummage around looking for how to unbolt it.
Anyone thinking about doing it, way easier than anticipated.
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