Triumphrat

rickster

Does anyone know how much take-up I can get on the chain on my '06? I just need about one tooth's worth to accomodate a 17t primary. I've already tightened it some since it was new. Thanks!

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"The older I get, the faster I was".

fivehundo

When fully loosened, the chain can be completely removed from the bike. I certainly think you have 2 teeth's worth of slack in there. You shouldn't have to add any links...

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"The Father wove the skein of your life a long time ago. Go and hide in a hole if you wish, but you won't live one instant longer. Your fate is fixed. Fear profits a man nothing." Herger the Joyous

rickster

Thanks, fivehundo; I did a little calculation and have pretty much decided to go with a 17/43 combo. That will still drop the final ratio by about 8.5%, which should be fine, and there won't be any potential chain-length issues.

__________________
"The older I get, the faster I was".

Wally

As I was warned, dropping one in the front wore the chain guide pretty severely. For my replacement I'm going 18/45. Just my 0.02...

rickster

Good point, Wally. I wonder if some of that can be overcome by rotating the hub so its centerline is above the c/l of the swingarm opening, thus raising the chain? I know some will say that this will lower the rear and slow down the steering, but so what? It's not like I'm likely to notice it on the street anyway. Just food for thought. I'll get out and look into that when it gets above freezing outside.

__________________
"The older I get, the faster I was".

bradtx

rickster, When I installed the 17T c/s sprocket on the '04 I had to remove the rear sprocket to get enough slack to remove the chain from the OEM 18T. If I had more miles on the chain I probably would not have had to go that extra step.

I haven't had any noticeable wear on the rubbing block...yet, but that's just good luck. Next chain will get a 18T/44T or 45T combo.

Brad

MQracing

I also want to change my final drive ratio and lower it a bit. Stock (for an 04 Daytona) is 42/18 which is equal to 2.33.

I also wanted to try to stick with an 18 tooth countersprocket--- for two reasons--- one to lessen the likelihood of wearing the blocks and secondly because an 18T should have longer life than a 17T.

And it would make me use a larger rear sprocket--- which, again, all things equal--- should give longer service life.

So--- I've been kicking around going with a 46\18 which would lower my final drive ratio to 2.56.

The other day I did find a vendor (but forgot to bookmark them) who offers a 46 tooth rear sprocket for my year daytona. I if remember correctly--- they even had the 46 toother in alum.

2.33 to 2.56 is only about 10 percent lower. What I am looking to do is to raise my rpms at cruising speed so that I can use 5th or 6th gear.
This past summer on a long road trip I found that to be in (I forget exactly) 5th gear at about 6000 rpms I was running close to 80 mph. Which in shark infested waters--- I wanted to back off a bit but found myself running in fourth gear to keep the r's above 5K while maintaining a road speed of say 65 to 70 mph.

So--- I'm hoping that I can (if I drop down to a 2.55 ratio) be able to kick into at least fifth gear and not be lugging the engine. My bike really doesn't like running much below 5000 rpm's. Does this sound right to you guys?

thanks,

Mike

bradtx

Mike, The '02 D955i (DSSA) ran the 18/46. Really a good combo, but there is a bit of MPG loss. I like the 17/42 or 18/44 because the the '04's personality became much brighter without a MPG penalty.

Brad

rickster

I went with the 17/44 combo for the calculated theoretical top speed- 172 mph @ 11,500 rpm. This was using the measured circumference of my tire- 77 in., and unless you measure your own tire it's a guess. Of course this doesn't allow for tire growth; another guess. I figure with the added power from the new Tune Boy map it might get within a few mph of this. My idea was to gear it for max. acceleration without putting it at the rev limiter if I ever get it on a track or anywhere else that will allow top speed. If you measure your tire you can calculate about where your revs will run in a given gear and a given speed. The primary ratio, individual gear ratios, and final drive ratios are in the service manual. BTW, my motor use to be somewhat soft and piggish between 5000-6000 rpm until the re-map. Now it grunts right along at lower revs; passing from 3800 rpm in 6th, no problem. Whacking the throttle open at anything over 6500 in first will hoist the front wheel easily. I'm totally sold on the Tune Boy!

__________________
"The older I get, the faster I was".