Triumphrat

rickster

I did the bypass last night. I was shocked to see how the conductor sizes changed after the connector!! Their electrical engineer needs to retire! They went from what looked like 12 or 14 to what couldn't have been more than 18!!! My system showed 13.6 idling and dropped to 13.4 @4000 rpm. After the bypass it held a steady 14.5, idling, revving, whatever! Well done, Zam!! One of the best posts I've seen!!! Seven thumbs up!

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"The older I get, the faster I was".

zam70

Glad to help

sevenpointsixtwo

I'm interested in something like this for my '98 t595... are the plugs and wires pretty much the same? I'll have to take a look at the wiring diagram, but my charging system definitely needs as much help as it can get. Thanks!

zam70

most regulators are the same - the wires might be a different color but, the function & operation is the same -
If you have a meter, you just need to verify the voltage polarity -
common the 2 positive wires together and then common the 2 negative wires togetehr.

DEcosse

You have an integrated automotive style alternator on your bike.

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GSXR 1000 Front End Swap

makton3g

Last week I ended up with a flat rear tire. This happend while I was at my work. So, while I was working on that tire problem, I decided to do this mod. Now the throttle response is ike my R6 (may even be better). Also, the idle has straighten out, but that could also be becuase I replaced the air filter with a K&N. The other filter was done for. Now, the bike is happy

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Fast is good, Alive is better.

DEcosse

A minor nit-pick that I just realized when answering question on another thread .......
If you install a 30 Amp fuse in-line with the new bypass, you can actually flow 60A total - regardless of the preferred (lower resistance) path of the new bypass, current will still flow through the original parallel path. So potentially the bike could draw 60 Amps before the fuses blow.
Simplest way around this is to remove the 30A fuse (#2) from the OEM fuse panel (unless of course the original wiring is completely cut to the original fuse panel instead of wired in parallel).



An alternative which involves slightly more wiring would be to do this:

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GSXR 1000 Front End Swap

zam70

Right on Decosse - thanks for the clarification

Research Rat

Zam,
Can you explain the benefits in layman's terms? It sounds like aside from a power consumption benefit, there are benefits to engine performace?

And how did the bike handle before and after?
Thanks!
-Scott

zam70

basically, the longer the distance electricity has to travel, the lower the voltage will be in the end (increased resistance = decreased voltage).
to complicate things, the smaller the wire the voltage is traveling on over this long distance, the harder the alternator has to work to make the electricity move down the wire, this causes burnt up plugs, alternators, rectifiers etc...(same thing, increased resistance = decreased voltage)

Small wire can be used effectively IF the distance traveled is very short AND long distances are no problem if the wire used is a large gauge..
BUT - in motorcycles, space is at a premium and harness manufaturing and assembly have to be taken into consideration. Unfortunately, I don't think the bike engineers (any of them) take real world use into account...so on paper, the gauge and length of wire used is fine but, in the real world, it's not.

SO - the MOD I do - take a large wire, run over a short distance and all is better and working how it was intended...no bottle neck in the wiring

The only performance increase would be the bike now working as it was designed with proper voltage...It will REALLY effect ignition coils since they are a linear device (a coil multiplies its input voltage, so - lets say the voltage input is 12 volts and it increases the voltage 1000 fold, that would equal a spark voltage of 12000 volts, now lets get the input voltage up to 14.4 and now our spark voltage is 14400)

this is simplified but, I hope it helps explain things.