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"Naked in Daytona" Build

9K views 42 replies 11 participants last post by  Steve Leeson 
#1 ·
Here we go guys! I'm converting my newly purchased 2005 Daytona 955i into a naked streetfighter first. Then a sexy little café race. Getting it in road going condition, first, in streetfighter form, is priority so I can get to riding it this summer.

Longer term, and ultimate result, will be a café racer with old school endurance racer vibe much like picture below.

Stay tuned for updated pics and information on the build progress. Any input on things to look out for; to-do or not to-do; etc. etc. is welcome.
 

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#33 ·
Functional Air Inlets

The seat fairing that I used has the ugly plastic block-off pieces just behind the holes in the fairing. Not only does this look like crap, bit it provides no function. Having relocated my regulator/rectifier to the side of the frame I decided more air can't hurt at all. A little aluminum wire mesh from BikeMaster and some spray paint and voila!

This came out even better than I had hoped and I think it looks totally bad ass.
 

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#34 ·
Rick's Electric Stator

Although my bike only has 4800 miles on it, it's still a 12 year old bike. It's spent most of that time sitting and feeling lonely.

Our wonderful allies, the English, have many admirable traits and abilities. Making dependable electrical systems in motorcycles and/or cars is not one of them. As you can see from the picture below, this puppy wasn't doing me much good. So I ordered up a new Rick's Electrics stator. Thanks to this site (as always), I was able to change the old stator out with no problems at all.

Keep in mind that the two stators that are applicable for this generation model have two different lengths of wire. My particular bike required the longer length version. Rick's provides everything you need including the rubber grommet already installed on the leads, instructions on how to bypass the stock OEM connectors and wire directly to the battery, as well as connectors and heat shrink if you so desire to go that route.
 

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#42 ·
Although my bike only has 4800 miles on it, it's still a 12 year old bike. It's spent most of that time sitting and feeling lonely.

Our wonderful allies, the English, have many admirable traits and abilities. Making dependable electrical systems in motorcycles and/or cars is not one of them. As you can see from the picture below, this puppy wasn't doing me much good. So I ordered up a new Rick's Electrics stator. Thanks to this site (as always), I was able to change the old stator out with no problems at all.

Keep in mind that the two stators that are applicable for this generation model have two different lengths of wire. My particular bike required the longer length version. Rick's provides everything you need including the rubber grommet already installed on the leads, instructions on how to bypass the stock OEM connectors and wire directly to the battery, as well as connectors and heat shrink if you so desire to go that route.
I'm sure I remember reading somewhere the Stator used in these is a Japanese part & was used in another bike too, I seem to remember It may have been a CBR 600/900
 
#35 ·
Custom Triumph Decals

Using the same color code used for my handlebar powder coating, I had custom decals made for the seat fairing and gas tank.

I never thought it would be so hard to find the "Triumph" font. Well, it is. Technically, I never found it. But I think I got pretty damn close.
 

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#36 ·
Update: Legal and Ready To Ride

I've got the FrankenTriple put back together and road legal! I've added SS brake lines, a new aluminum front master cylinder reservoir, and a new longer clutch cable.

I haven't bothered to replace the bent front brake lever or controls as I'm awaiting delivery of a custom Magura HC1 radial master cylinder kit and custom Hymec hydraulic clutch conversion kit. I'll post install pics and such when I get down on that in a few weeks.
 

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#37 ·
Custom License Plate Mount and Lighting

It's taken me a while to figure out how I was going to mount my license plate since I chopped up the OEM undertail. The bracket I used is a simple stamped steel "T" bracket from the hardware store. I hit it with the perennially high-class spray paint, and voila! You can barely see it.

For the lights I used two nifty little LED license plate bolts from Kuryakyn. This kit is totally complete with pre-stripped wires, the tiniest heat-shrink I've ever seen, lock washers, nuts and a security star bit. And it's inexpensive! As you can see from the close up photo of the bolt/light, it has a post-type security star bit so if the riff-raff want to gaffle your sh*t, they better be well prepared. Not sure what type of metal they're made of but they have a decent heft to them.

For my splices I used these super slick solder connectors from BikeMaster with heat shrink built in. I wasn't familiar with this type of product before but I'll tell you, I'll try to never use any other type other than this. It's dead easy! They come in two sizes that accommodate several wire diameters. There's a little ring of solder in the middle. All you do is slide one wire into one end, the other wire into the other end so the wires overlap to assure a complete solder connection. Hit it with your heat gun, pencil torch, or even a lighter and BAM! A solder connection that is heat shrunk. They even built them with little rubber rings toward the edges of the connector that work as water sealant rings to provide even more moisture intrusion protection.

Anyway, that's what I did today and now I'm going to take it out for a spin!!!
 

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#39 ·
Yes sir. Are in Denton County too? If so, we should meet up sometime soon and ride.
 
#40 ·
Wish I could. I actually sold off my stuff and moved to Europe about 4 months ago. Met a woman last year I liked as much as motorcycles. Had to see what happens.
But, I left my bike with some buddies. If you see this thing rolling around Tarrant, that's them.
 
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