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At least, the fuel pump is dead...

2K views 14 replies 3 participants last post by  Mr_Sinister 
#1 · (Edited)
At least, the fuel pump is dead...'02

Hey,

my 955i won't start...The starter ist runing, but the fuelpump is dead.

Here's the problem: I've got no light switches etc. because i changed them against a electronic which controlls the main functions of my bike in combinations with push buttons.

Are in the light switch etc. any connection that are needed ?

I also cut out the digital gauge, but in the past my bike was running without the gauge.

Which relais are needed to run the bike only the ignition relay an the main relay ? Maybe i cut out to much...:|

Cheers
 
#4 ·
Lights don't matter, neither do instruments
The main relay needs to be on - you should have 12V at Fuses 6 & 7
From the original key-switch connector,(Main Harness side) the Green Wire which feeds to Fuse 5 should 12V
You're a bit vague on what you have modified/eliminated - you must also have the interlock loops connected at the Alarm connector

You say starter runs so it appears that you have power at Fuse 5 - when you turn on the Kill/Run switch, do you hear the pump run for ~ 3 secs? (It should continue to do this repeatedly if you turn to Kill, then back to run again)
 
#5 · (Edited)
No, the pump dosen't run at all...It makes no sound, when i feed the pump directly with 12V it runs.

Okay, i'll check it tomorow, but i've checked the fuses already and they're alright.

The main power relay dosen't make any click, clack or how you call the sound of a relay, when i turn the key.
The ignition relay pulls, when i turn the key or use the kill switch.


I cutted all cabels the weren't longer required, so i wonder that the pump is dead.

Yes, the loops are in their places.

Is it possible the ECM don't get the 12V ? Which pin on connector plug is used for it, 2/F3 ?

Which pin of the main power relais shoul have 12V when the key is turned on or not...?

Sorry, my english needs a little bit of lubrication...;)
 
#9 ·
If you do not have 12V at Fuse 6 & 7, then relay is not turning on
Are neutral and oil pressure lamps lit? Edit - you say you removed the gauge - do you have an alternative to indicate these?
Those lamps would be a good indicator of whether your ignition power circuit is complete.
Otherwise measure for 12V at the wire loops on the bypass connector (with it plugged in) - you should have 12V on pin 1.
If that is good, it would suggest you should have power to 2/E1 which should activate the ECU to send the 'low' signal (yellow/brown) to the Power Relay to turn it on.
 
#14 ·
Correct
The first group should go directly to the Engine Ground Point

Question - when/how did this problem begin? If this only started after you modified the wiring, it is unlikely to be an ECU failure but something you have done in the harness.

So, yes, check that all those points have a connection to either engine ground or battery negative and also that the 12V does indeed make it to 2/E1 (you can measure for continuity between 2/E1 and the Bypass Connector Pin 1)
 
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