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Sbeckman7's T595 Adventure

34K views 177 replies 15 participants last post by  sussurf 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi All,

Now that I've got both feet on the ground in this forum, it seems like a good time to begin a thread documenting the progress of my project bike. I am the new proud owner of a 1997 T595 Daytona and a beginner in the motorcycle world as well. So far this forum has been a fantastic resource thanks to its hugely knowledgable members, and as my experience grows I hope to return the favor and contribute everything I have learned in the process.

What have I discovered so far? I grossly overestimated the fabrication competence of the bike's previous owner!! I can't complain as I paid almost nothing for the bike, but after going through it I'm honestly relieved the bike even has oil in the engine! The wiring harness is an absolute mess, the top yoke has been modified in the shadiest way possible to accommodate handlebars, oil cooler lines are literally touching the headers... As a result of all this, I have been ordering parts left and right but I'm extremely excited to get the ball rolling on this project. The bike starts and runs but it will be needing a lot of attention. A few pictures...

The bike as I took her home, one day before my 23rd birthday! Came with a box of extra parts such as throttle bodies, ignition coils, alternator, starter motor, gauges, Ducati rear cowl (?!), etc. Rear subframe was loosely attached to frame, fuel pump audibly fighting for it's life, original tires cracked and shot.


Got the bike to my friend's shop; he has graciously agreed to let me complete the build here provided it doesnt take me too long :grin2:


Radiator is definitely not stock as it's curved and the PO mentioned he went through the cooling system while he had the bike. Not sure if it's an OEM triumph rad or not, looked similar to some I saw in pictures of Street Triples. Cooling system needs to be inspected and hoses potentially rerouted because it looks messy and one of the top hoses going to the cap is pinched by the airbox (is this normal?). The glued-on plastic mount was for the temp gauge and Ignition was stuck right in front of the air intake... I also really need a muffler ;)




Original mileage!


One more from the back. No chain guard yet, which will be installed with a rear hugger eventually. Chain is a bit too tight as well.


The bike feels like it should be a manageable size to me, although I don't have much to compare it to. Need to find a seat first, and preferably one with a little more cafe style than the original. I will probably lower it a bit as well, providing it doesn't mess with the suspension geometry too much. Going at 05-10 Street Triple seats to determine if they will work with the earlier style gas tank. I think this requires the subframe from a newer bike but my google image estimate leads me to believe it may bolt up without modification.
 
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#2 ·
On to the really bad!!

Get a load of this handlebar mount. Delrin spacers on top clamped to non-seated washers and bolts underneath! It was also at this point when I realized why the ignition was under the frame; the PO hacked the barrel mount off the top yoke!




The wiring harness... where to start... :surprise:







Also, is this stock, and if so what is it? Started solenoid?



Parts ordered so far:
- Lithium Iron Phosphate battery & battery tender (bike didn't come with a battery and this one weighs ~2 lbs!)
- Billet Aluminum gas cap (original is missing lock tumbler/broken latch)
- Oil filter (just to be safe)
- Front fender
- Fuel pump ($20 Amazon experiment.. brand is Caltric I believe)
- Complete original wiring harnesses for body and dash


I'm hoping that should be just about everything needed to make this bike rideable again (save for a seat cowl, seat, tires, and exhaust), and I'm still into this thing for less than 800 bucks! Parts arriving throughout the week so I will update this thread as soon as I make some more progress.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the confirmation.

Hello mate, like myself you have bought yourself for nearly nothing an absolute beautiful example of "shodi-modificationess" (My thread's coming imminently) I wish you all the best of luck in bringing her back to a wonderful running condition.
Thanks very much and good luck to yourself as well!

Since you're going naked, you'd probably have been better ordering a Speed Triple harness vs a Daytona one - the headlight end of things just much easier to deal with.

That is OEM Daytona top clamp which was drilled for the bar risers, hence why it has those angled spacers.
There is no provision on that clamp for mounting the instruments, per the OEM Speed Triple config, so you'll have to figure something out there
The instruments are normally in a 'pod' and have a strip of idiot lights also
(see this ebay listing for images)

Don't think that is a Street Triple rad - they are curved but have filler directly on the rad itself and single fan.

That skinny hose from the filler neck needs to go to a reservoir - it should be immersed in coolant so that the system will either suck or purge coolant depending on the pressure in the system. The OEM one goes in the tail, however you can fit one anywhere and use any type of canister

This is mine - note that the two tubes on the canister - the one from the radiator extends down to the bottom of the can; the other which vents to ground is the overflow and only extends to just below the top of the can.
I see what you're saying with regards to the top yoke and will address it once the bike is back up and running, either with a Street Triple top yoke or a new front end swap entirely a la GSXR. Really like your coolant overflow bottle as well, I will try to do something similar.

I have no idea why my bike has such an oversized radiator compared to stock and I might just replace it with a new stock unit to clean things up. It would also make more space for the oil cooler. Can someone confirm if they have a similarly crushed coolant hose routed from their coolant filler cap?
 
#5 ·
Since you're going naked, you'd probably have been better ordering a Speed Triple harness vs a Daytona one - the headlight end of things just much easier to deal with.

That is OEM Daytona top clamp which was drilled for the bar risers, hence why it has those angled spacers.
There is no provision on that clamp for mounting the instruments, per the OEM Speed Triple config, so you'll have to figure something out there
The instruments are normally in a 'pod' and have a strip of idiot lights also
(see this ebay listing for images)

Don't think that is a Street Triple rad - they are curved but have filler directly on the rad itself and single fan.

That skinny hose from the filler neck needs to go to a reservoir - it should be immersed in coolant so that the system will either suck or purge coolant depending on the pressure in the system. The OEM one goes in the tail, however you can fit one anywhere and use any type of canister

This is mine - note that the two tubes on the canister - the one from the radiator extends down to the bottom of the can; the other which vents to ground is the overflow and only extends to just below the top of the can.

 
#10 ·
Interesting concept. I like the effort but I think he's trying to blend the wrong models personally. The Daytona/S3 frames tend to lend themselves much more to the brutish Monster look in my opinion. I will worry more about aesthetics in the future, but for now the black S3 posted in my other thread remains my main inspiration for the build.

Put a little more time into the bike tonight with the help of my buddy Daniel. We removed the terribly executed radiator/clamps/hose routing. It was a pleasant surprise to find the bike actually had coolant in the system, although I will definitely be buying a newer S3 radiator to mount the turn indicators in the future.

Among other issues, I'm pretty sure this radiator was mounted upside down considering the taper of the end tanks, fan position, and tubing orientation.



 
#13 ·
I put about 6 hours into the project tonight by digging into the wiring harness/issues with the bike. I learned a lot... for example that I am actually capable of understanding and using a wiring diagram. That was an accomplishment. Since the last of my wiring items (Dash light harness, Ground Block Upgrade kit, main wiring harness) came in the mail today, I pulled the original harness off the bike and labeled every single connector with scotch tape and a sharpie. I then laid the original and new harnesses down side by side and began learning the layout, tracing "mystery plugs" with the wiring diagram and labeling the new harness just as I labeled the old one to make sure it all added up.

It didn't.

Original harness on the right, new harness on the left.


The new harness - which was supposedly pulled from a 1998 T595 - was missing a crankshaft position sensor and rear speed sensor. It used a different wiring diagram in my book (strangely the wiring diagram for the 955i) and as a result was not directly compatible with my bike. While I still don't understand how this happened, it did give me a good opportunity to view the harnesses side by side as I said earlier. This was important for me because I didn't know how good or bad shape my harness was in compared to an original harness. The wrapping was poorly done but apart from that it's all there and nothing necessary was hacked up or removed. I am thinking I will take one or two connectors from the '98 harness and then sell it again on eBay.

In the process of removing the body harness, I also discovered that my PCV had already been capped off (wasn't sure if it was as I live in California).


The next surprise was with my warning light harness: another non-fitting item! Completely different connectors from what my bike takes (square) and the rectangular receptacle of the purchased item. Although the dash lights came from a 2001 bike, my ignorance led me to believe the ad description, "Triumph T595 955i 955 Daytona 1997 - 2001 indicator dash lights and wiring harness. Removed from a 2001 Daytona 955 in working condition..." meant it would be a direct fit with my harness. Learning the hard way!

The mangled harness that came with my bike on the left, and the '01 dash lights that I hoped would replace it.



I also learned about the existence of a rear brake switch. Is this normally mounted on the rear brake master cylinder? My bike didn't come with one, just saw it connected to the eBay wiring harness and found out what it is. Another question: Does the Ground Block Upgrade kit apply to early bikes? I don't have the bundle of ground wires going to a connecter like the eBay harness has.

I will be swapping the following parts of the eBay harness to make my original harness back to full health:
- Fuel pump connectors: The OEM sealed connector was replaced with Ferrules at the ends of each wire
- Fuel level sensor: one of my wires broke at the base of the connector so I will take the end of the new harness and splice it in
- Turn signal relay: relay was removed and Ferrules attached instead
- Relay housing: I just like the little aluminum tray with rubber relay mounts so I will take it :)


Ah! Just remembered I forgot to show off my fancy custom-fabbed foot peg mounts! ;)

They're scary to look at in person. The aluminum was drilled in what I would described in a "hit or miss" pattern and the adapter has bent a noticeable amount, although I'm not sure when or how. There are some tiny cracks near the bolts as well.. Need to get the OEM pegs on there ASAP!

And lastly the bike at the end of the night without any wires:
 
#14 ·
You've got a lot of stuff in that one post - let me try to break it down

The new harness - which was supposedly pulled from a 1998 T595 - was missing a crankshaft position sensor and rear speed sensor.
Rear speed sensor is not used anyway and would not have provision on a 98, only on the 97. So this is moot for your purpose.
When you say "Crankshaft Position Sensor" I think you mean CAMSHAFT position sensor - this was also deleted on the 98 model so again, moot.
It HAS to have a Crank Position Sensor - my guess is you are just confusing these two.

I know for sure the rear speed sensor was never utilized and I am relatively (but not 100) that even the early model with the Cam sensor did not actually utilize that sensor either (however the correct map for this model is generally identified by being for bikes fitted with the speed & cam sensor).

The next surprise was with my warning light harness: another non-fitting item! Completely different connectors from what my bike takes (square) and the rectangular receptacle of the purchased item.
The instrument light panel on the right of your image looks like a Sprint panel to me - note that on an S3/Daytona the idiot light strip would be vertical and that is clearly a horizontal layout.





The one you show also has a speed sensor connector, which makes it a Sprint panel

Incidentally In triumph's infinite wisdom (or lack thereof) they did not key the tach & temp gauge connectors differently, so it is actually possible to connect these into the wrong mate - so heads-up to be sure you mate these correctly


In the process of removing the body harness, I also discovered that my PCV had already been capped off (wasn't sure if it was as I live in California).
You can get rid of that altogether - just put another cap on the IACV in place of the hose & valve.
It does not have to be electrically connected and it will not throw an error code if it is not.

I also learned about the existence of a rear brake switch. Is this normally mounted on the rear brake master cylinder? My bike didn't come with one, just saw it connected to the eBay wiring harness and found out what it is.
Yes, it normally operates off a spring attached to the pedal; the simplest way to address this is to install a banjo-style pressure switch in place of the brake line banjo bolt.

Another question: Does the Ground Block Upgrade kit apply to early bikes? I don't have the bundle of ground wires going to a connecter like the eBay harness has
The early 97 bikes did not have a ground block; if the EBay harness has it, then do the upgrade accordingly.

- Fuel pump connectors: The OEM sealed connector was replaced with Ferrules at the ends of each wire
Let me know if you need part# source for this connector At the least you can replace the terminals if using one from old harness

- Fuel level sensor: one of my wires broke at the base of the connector so I will take the end of the new harness and splice it in
Again can give you part #/Source if you need it

- Turn signal relay: relay was removed and Ferrules attached instead
This is a std relay socket although only three positions used.
If you plan to install LED turn signals, a good idea is to fit a CF13GL-02 relay, which will work for LEDs without using load resistors.
Note that with LED turns, you will also need the diode mod for the idiot light cluster

Need to get the OEM pegs on there ASAP!
The frame mounts are the same on all Daytona T595/955 through 06 and S3 97-10
What will change however (from 02+) is the length of the linkage rod for the gear shift side.

So if looking after-market, the easiest to find will be for Speed Triple 1050, but again recognize the linkage rod length will change, but that is about all.
There are some pretty decent looking Chinese knock-off rearsets around.
I put these on my TL - a guy in Oakland sells them - you can find him on BARF forum.
Edit - that was Dennis at Bohemian Racing, but don't think he's around any more.
You can find the same knock-offs on EBay though.
(I have Rizomas on my Triumph - last pic - those are great quality if your budget will stretch that far)
But of course if you can find OEM from any of years mentioned, you can make those work too

The third pic shows the brake pressure switch
 

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#15 ·
Happy to say that I made some good progress tonight. After consulting with DEcosse on various wiring configurations, I decided to stick the entire '98 eBay harness into the frame. This means I lose the cam position sensor as well as rear speed sensor, but gain several factory connectors that were missing on the original harness as well as an overall better condition harness. Now I will also be able to install the Ground Block Upgrade kit as the new harness has a ground block. A side note that was rather interesting - the eBay harness had aspects from two different wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual. Seems to be as if every harness has some quirks and it's just a matter of finding the least confusing package available, which is exactly what I did.

For clarification with the exhaust cam sensor in case anyone else finds themselves in the same boat, my research led me to believe that this sensor was used in very early T595 ECU's/tunes (early-mid '97) and was responsible for firing each spark plug when the corresponding piston was at the combustion stroke (individual spark). When unplugged or faulty, the engine resorts to a wasted spark setup where every plug fires for one cylinder's combustion stroke. I believe an updated tune tells the ECU to receive cylinder position from the crankshaft position sensor, thus making the cam position sensor redundant. That's why it was not used in later bikes.

Just the same, I pulled my sensor out of the valve cover and had a peek inside to see if I could see any kind of teeth or something to measure. I didn't see any teeth, however there may be only tooth as the sensor reads 1 time per cam revolution, so it's possible the tooth was hidden at the bottom of the camshaft.


Really happy that I also got the key to finally turn in the ignition barrel! The problem was caused by the key somehow going too far in to the barrel. When i moved it out slightly, the ignition turned without problem. Haven't been able to get the bar lock to function yet though.


I cleaned the engine before putting the harness back on and began installation right after. It feels great to finally be putting the bike back together! The new harness was a pain to work around the engine/airbox but so much better than the original. I also removed the PCV and capped the port off the IACV, leaving the plug for the PCV disconnected. I love that everything is fitting together even better than when I bought the bike!


Everything is connected up to the gas tank. One detail I want to fix is to reinstall a vacuum line from the FPR on the side of the tank to the intake manifold nipple. I would also love to see some pictures of some T595's wiring under the seat and around the battery tray area so I can get an idea of where exactly everything belongs. I secured the fuse box using the plastic clips but not sure about the location of the ECU and relays.



Still waiting on dash warning light assembly (found another one on eBay with the correct connector), radiator and associated tubing, and perhaps a seat/cowl. I would also like to order new clutch and throttle cables but that can be done after the bike is running.
 
#16 ·
My '98 T595 has the cam position sensor installed and wired. No rear wheel speed sensor. Just so you know. The ECU sits behind the battery box and before the fuse box. You have to remove the battery box to install the ECU via a diagonal approach to place under the subframe rails. A bit tedious. The relays go behind the fuse box under the black cross rail just visible in your last pic. I wouldn't worry about a hose from the FPR to the airbox. Later bikes do not use a hose at all. My hose is disconnected from the box. A matter of filtered air vs non.

The ECU has holes where push pins go through to secure to the bike.
 
#19 ·
I had to recently replace my ECU with a used one from the UK. A very high idle not due to the usual suspects. Installed the new ECU and the issue is gone. Have to check what map the new ECU has, but the mpg has gone up considerably and accel. is much better as well. Probably running leaner and for the better. The two TuneECU maps for my bike I feel run too rich. However, I just purchased a leftover '14 Ninja 1000ABS so the T595 is going into hibernation for awhile. I bought the Daytona 5yrs ago. I wish I had the time like you to really go through the bike and sort out some issues. I took the bike off the road last season to work on while I rode a Thruxton. Sold the Thruxton and now onto the Ninja. Hopefully the Daytona will see the light of day again, but not too soon. Good luck with your rehab, looks good so far.

I defer to D'Ecosse about the cam pos. sensor. I don't think it's being used even though it's wired in. I should have disconnected to test, but a pita to pull the airbox. I left off the front torx bolt on the box to make removal easier.
 
#22 ·
You can try Hermy's Triumph in PA for pricing or MADSS in NJ. They are a vendor on the forum. If you call and mention that you are a RAT member, you should receive 15% off plus free shipping over a certain expenditure. Ebay may be another source, but I've never seen the tank hardware. There is also Pinwall for used parts as well.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Thanks for the parts sources guys.

ALMOST THERE!

Down to the last 3 wires. They're all ground wires, connecting to the battery/alternator. Just not sure which...

Wire 1 is the smallest diameter wire and comes from the intersection in the wiring harness where the main harness splits off to the ECU and fuses. Do to this configuration, I'm thinking it's the engine earth. However, the bolt at the end of the wire is giving me doubts, as well as the wire gauge.

Wire 2 is the largest gauge wire and splits off of the harness going to the starter solenoid. The placement of this wire in the harness makes me believe that I could either go to the negative battery terminal or the engine ground.

Wire 3 is actually formed by a combination of smaller ground wires culminating in the single terminal. It is located between wires one and two. On the original harness, I traced this same ground wire configuration back to the ECU, and I believe it was connected to the negative battery terminal.





Sadly I just tried to connect the fuel tank and the one remaining plastic connector on the tank (the feed line) began leaking immediately :/ time to order more parts.
 
#24 ·
I think 1 goes to the ECU connector bracket, 2 goes to the engine ground (which is actually one of the studs on the alternator) and 3 is your battery terminal
You should also have an additional ground wire coming from your new ground block retrofit to the battery negative.

See this thread - that would a good time to execute this mod.
 
#27 ·
If you look down onto where the ECU is located in the bike, there is a bolt that carries that #1 ground wire and also attaches the ECU to the subframe on the right side. Basically, viewing the ECU as a slim long rectangle between the frame rails, the bolt goes at the top right corner of the ECU, looking down, standing on the left side of the bike. My bike is parked at a friends house, otherwise I would snap a pic for you. It attaches to subframe to the right of the hinged locking clamp of the ECU.
 
#29 ·
Sorry - when you said 'original' harness I thought you meant that literally
I do indeed see those 4ga cables in the pic in your second post

Your Fuses may be confused? The only 40A fuse should be that from the Alternator (designated 'Main Fuse') which is Fuse #7
I think the one to which you are referring is Fuse 8 - that should be 15A.
That kills an awful lot of stuff, including the Diagnostic Connector, should you plan to hook up TuneECU
Pretty bizarre but there is no specific Fuel Pump Fuse - simplest is just to pull the Fuel Pump relay.
Note that you will get an MIL from not having that relay present (as indeed you will from any other sensors disconnected, including the MIL light itself)
You are going to absolutely need TuneECU before much longer, so if you haven't already ordered cable, would advise you not to put off.
Lonelec cable is virtually guaranteed to work - some of those on EBay/Amazon can be suspect (but you might get lucky)
(or you can go wireless/bluetooth with adapter if you use the Android version if you have Android phone or Tablet - lots of those adapters available on EBay/Amazon)
With TuneECU, you can test things like the pump, cooling fan, IACV operation etc (as well as diagnose any error codes thrown by the ECU)

But sure, you can pull Fuse 8 if you are just looking to check the 'cycle' electrics (lighting and ancillary functions)

Also be sure that you install the Alarm bypass connector - that is connector with a single loop of wire on a 12-way connector plug (looks like white one in your harness picture)
 
#30 ·
Oops you were right, without the bike in front of me I confused the Main Fuse and fuel pump/ecu fuses. OK, so picking up a plastic fuel connector from dealer this afternoon ($10) and ordered replacement metal fitting for down the road ($20). OBDII to usb plug and OBDII reader arrived yesterday :smile2: And alarm bypass connector was already installed on the harness so taken care of. Maybe I can try TuneECU tonight! Would love to familiarize myself with the program and test individual functions. Hope it runs on Windows 10.

And now for the kicker: leaving Thursday morning to spend a few weeks in Europe with my girlfriend. I would love to get it fired up before I leave (even just a quick test start w/o completed cooling system). I will enjoy these few weeks and enjoy the project when I get back!
 
#31 ·
Back at the shop - couldn't wait. I wanna run this ground wire setup past you guys again before I put power through it. Engine ground and alternator wires are understood, but I couldn't see any sort of ecu mount on the subframe or battery tray as per the description. Does this need to ground to the subframe or does it simply bolt to the ECU?



Also having a complete b*tch of a time getting the starter solenoid to sit happy any way other than upside down. Am I correct that the main harness (right side of the frame) crosses to the left side of the frame underneath the rear gas tank mount? From there goes off to ECU, starter solenoid, and ground block?


 
#32 ·
Ground to ECU does not need to contact sub-frame, as long as bracket itself is grounded.

The solenoid should sit in a rubber mount that fits on a couple of metal tabs on under-side of the frame cross-member (approx in front of the shock but over to the left) - let me see if I can find you a picture
 

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#35 ·
What a Night to Be Alive

What a night, gents!! :grin2:

Tonight my girl fired up for the first time (since removing all the horrible-ness done by previous owners that is). The no-start problem and clicking was fixed rather easily: my friend noticed the engine earth laying on top of the transmission!! Who would've thought plugging things in causes proper functioning?!? The neutral light also came on once the ground was connected :wink2: I also really enjoyed familiarizing myself with my newly purchased OBDII scanner as well as TuneECU (which I only found out later can also be used as an OBD scanner!). Nevertheless, it's nice to have both as the scanner is portable enough to potentially fit under the seat :wink2:

It was an absolutely wonderful reward to finally hear this motorcycle come to life again knowing I was responsible for completely rewiring the bike. I've had three years of Motorsport Engineering classes and electronics were always my weak spot; what a triumph (pun intended) to successfully decipher wiring diagrams and learn a bit about electrical systems in modern vehicles!

Thanks to all who have contributed time and knowledge to my project thus far. The road to completion isn't short, but at least now it will be loud! :grin2:

A video of the moment and some pictures to follow.









Spence
 
#39 · (Edited)
Good morning all :)

Preparing to get out of France... Been kind of scary lately and I changed my flight home as I was scheduled to depart from Charles de Gaulle. All of the parts I ordered have arrived while I was gone so I should be coming home to a large collection of boxes :) The only remaining parts I believe I need to purchase before the first ride are one radiator hose and a ton of hardware. Unfortunately I priced everything out and its about $185 bucks for all the little nuts and bolts, which seems ridiculous but I guess there's no way around that (although I will try McMaster Carr for some of the more common-sized bolts).



Also found a nice helmet, jacket, and gloves, which will hopefully arrive before my Motorcycle Rider's course Dec 9-13!


Spence
 
#40 ·
It's good to be back :) I came home to a pile of parts which is always nice, and was able to put everything on the bike today. Newly installed are the following:

- Keyless gas cap
- OEM seat
- Dash warning light cluster
- Caltric Fuel Pump
- OEM gas tank gasket
- Metal female QR fuel fitting
- OEM radiator & hoses

I also took a few minutes to mount my starter solenoid properly (well, minus the zip ties...) and filled the bike with coolant. I was really looking forward to a first ride around the parking lot but unfortunately the new fuel pump didn't seem to prime the lines enough before the battery got too weak to crank, as it's been sitting for almost a month now. Going back tomorrow with a little more gas and will hopefully be able to have the "maiden voyage!" I also mounted the OEM rear fairing that I ordered, however when it arrived it was broken. With that said, I wasn't sold on the look anyways and lined up the spare Ducati tail fairing just for fun, only to realize the bolt holes matched up perfectly and the seat contour fit like a glove. I'm really thinking about modifying the subframe now to give the bike a little more unique style.




 
#41 · (Edited)
Had my first ride tonight!! After spending the entire afternoon chasing the fueling problem, I eventually discovered an unexpected (and also cheap!) problem to fix: lodged in the supply fuel line going from the filter to the outside of the tank was a plastic end cap from the fuel filter packaging! I can only imagine that whoever installed the fuel filter forgot to remove the cover... This bike must have suffered under the ownership of whatever moron had it before me :surprise::grin2:

After removing the fuel blockage, the lines immediately pressurized and I discovered a bad o-ring on the male connector of the feeding fuel line, which resulted in squirting fuel. I didn't have any Viton o-rings available so I just put a normal rubber on for the first ride (which may have already failed after tonight haha). Will be ordering correct o-rings next as well as examining for any remaining fuel leaks, as I noticed a good amount of drips coming from the bike at the end of my ~3 minute ride.

Holy s**t is it loud!! Reminiscent of an Ferrari flat 12 in my opinion, which is just about the highest praise as I can offer :grin2:

Excited to move forward with this! :grin2:



 
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