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Silly Question... What bike do I own?!

7K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  DaveM 
#1 ·
Hi guys,

I'm new here and just bought my first bike yesterday. The Craigslist Ad said it was a 1998 Street Triple 955i (I understand this bike is non existent..). I thought, due to the SSA, it must be a Speed Triple 955i and that the owner just misremembered the name. Now, running the VIN online, my computer is telling me that I own a T595 Daytona.

Which brings me to the question, is there any way to tell a Speed Triple 955i and T595 Daytona apart if both bikes are naked? Should I just believe the VIN number and call it a day? Bike has a "replacement VIN" riveted on to the frame, which matches the number on the title and did not come up as stolen or wrecked when I searched in an online database.


Thanks for any insight you can provide,


Spence

 
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#6 ·
... the T509 came with a Triumph badge on the motor ...
I mentioned this on your same thread in the Speed Triple section.

The headers are also quite different - 955 headers - whether that be 97/98 or 99+ Daytona, or 99 955 S3, will not fit on a T509 885cc engine. But the S3 header, even at 955 is different than the Daytona.
The 97-99 daytona header is sectional - separate down-pipes that are joined to the collector with springs: I can just make out in your pic the hook-loops for the springs, but the springs themselves appear to be missing!

This link has some excellent pics of a 97/98 T595 header

This one is a 99-01 (You have to careful with what sellers say it's off - in this case yes, it will fit a 97-01, but as far as OEM goes, the differences are as stated)

So that would again suggest it's a T595 (97-98)

More detail on the top clamp please - does it have a bevel on the top? And have the bar risers been modified to accommodate that?
Speed Triple top clamps have a small 'nubbin' forward of the key-switch with tapped hole on the underside of it (plus two other tapped holes behind the switch) - this is to mount the OEM instruments on the S3.
Daytona clamp does not have these three tapped holes (nor the corresponding 'nubbin' on the front) on the bottom and has a bevel shaped top surface.

If you look at the Fuel Rail - is a round tubular rail, or a machined block?
And does the IACV mount between the 1 & 2 TB's with an opening directly to the airbox?
Or is the 'older' style IACV (normally that would mount off the cam tensioner bolt but it could be just hanging there) - the main difference with that one is has a hose to the airbox, rather than mounting flush up to it

Those two items not so much to determine S3 or Daytona, but generation;
block style fuel rail & older IACV would make it 98
tubular rail and new IACV would make it a 99

If I blow up your pic I can almost see the 'old' style IACV and hose just behind the cam tensioner - so you can confirm that with a real inspection

Performance differences (for your concern as a newbie):
885 cc T509 - 108 PS
955i S3 - 110 PS
Daytona (T595 & 955) - 130 PS

So on paper looks like the Daytona has about 20% more power
But you should note that ALL of this difference is pretty much at the very top end - Wide Open Throttle - with the higher redline of the Daytona motor.
And the S3 makes its peak torque MUCH lower in the rpm scale, so in fact the S3 might even feel a little more torquey in the bottom half of the range.
So I would say, from that factor, the 'higher power' Daytona is not going to give you a harder time (unless you make it so!)

Take riding classes - MSF - and treat that throttle grip with respect as your experience grows.
 
#3 ·
Got it, thanks for the info! Technically speaking it's certainly a superior bike over the T509, however I am guessing it will be too much bike for a first timer. If that's the case I will just sell it after fixing everything ;)
 
#7 · (Edited)
Do you have a 98 or a 955?
A 98 would be a T509 - 885cc
A 99 would be 955 - Vin range 071699 to 089736

What are last 6 numbers of VIN?

Looking at your pics, I'm thinking you may have yourself a Daytona there
- has a Daytona Oil Cooler
- no 'Triumph' oval nameplate on the right side of engine

The bar risers are not stock anyway (you have fat bar) but not sure without better pic if that is tsd S3 top clamp or modded Daytona

Radiator does not look stock anyway (not sure would need to see better pics - it looks curved) - but no hoses on right side on either S3 or Daytona from that gen, so definitely not original there

1050 seat (any year) will not work with your subframe
an '11 subframe might not even bolt to your frame, since main frame is different
You can probably put 05-10 mating seat/subframe on that

Edit - just see you said STREET Triple seat - that is definitely not going to fit & neither is the subframe
Thanks a lot for the help guys! DEcosse you are exactly the type of person I was hoping would see this thread; thanks very much for the shared knowledge. I just ran the VIN today which seemed to confirm the bike is a T595 Daytona.


Are these pictures any better for determining the origin of the bar risers? Definitely prefer the handlebar setup over clip-ons for beginner riding.



Here's a closeup of the lower engine and headers. Radiator is definitely not stock as it's curved, and the PO mentioned he went through the cooling system while he had the bike. Guess they're the Daytona headers too... I also really need a muffler ;)


Original mileage!


One more from the back. Need to address chain guard and tires, as well as plenty other small things.


The bike feels like it should be a manageable size to me, although I don't have much to compare it to. Need to find a seat first, and preferable one with a little more cafe style than the original. I will look at 05-10 seats, thanks for that tip. I guess I will also find out whether I need to get a newer subframe as well for the seat to bolt up.



An honest concern of mine is the power delivery. Has anyone ever had experience with an ECU tuning module to "detune" the bike or activate limp mode? Something along those lines may be of interest to me in the future.
 
#11 ·
@DaveM - @sbeckman7 kinda reminds me of @redmosquito1 from the Sprint forum some years back, when he was starting out - yes? :D

... Need to find a seat first, and preferable one with a little more cafe style than the original. I will look at 05-10 seats, thanks for that tip. I guess I will also find out whether I need to get a newer subframe as well for the seat to bolt up.
Yes, you will likely need the matching subframe/seat/rear-plastics/under-tray/battery-box combo - & even then be prepared for how you handle potential mis-match of the plastics alignment between the tail section to the tank.

... Has anyone ever had experience with an ECU tuning module to "detune" the bike or activate limp mode? Something along those lines may be of interest to me in the future.
You really don't want to introduce any 'detuning' which is only going to make the bike run extremely poorly.
Do some reading in the EFI sub-forum on TuneECU and on the TuneECU website itself. This program is a 'must-have' - and it's free (or voluntary donation) for Windows version, or small fee for Android App from PlayStore - plus cost of a cable (~$25)

A thought I had was a simple modification to the map, which would be to just lower the redline. I had a quick play with a T595 map and you can reduce that down to 8400 (min it would go) from 10,500 so that will certainly curtail that top-end - down to about 80hp max at the wheel. (It's not going to do anything to reduce the torque however so you still need to be respectful of that throttle)
Couple that with the bigger front sprocket and it should be respectably more manageable.
And again, these mods are easily reversed as/when your experience grows.
 
#8 ·
First, let me commend you on your maturity in your caution over tackling riding a pretty 'big' first bike.
That already says a lot about you and worthy of recognizing that in many jurors dictions, power control is mandated (especially for the newbies) in some countries - but that surely applies to those (typically teens!) who have no ability to self control.
But just from your few words, it sounds like you are entering this with sense & respect for what you might be encountering.

So, first off - Well, now we see you seated on it, the problem is that, while you're already on the balls of your feet with no seat, sitting on the sub-frame, once you add a seat you're going to be on your toes at best .
So I would say the height is going to be a bigger challenge (initially) than the power.
That in itself is not necessarily a problem - I'm a short-ass too - but been riding a LONG time.
As a newbie, you might prefer the confidence of being able to flat-foot.
Think of it like swimming - doesn't matter if there is 3 ft or 60 ft of water below you!
So while moving it is inconsequential - but once you stop moving (or for maneuvering in parking etc) that is where it becomes a factor.
When you come to a stop at lights etc, you will feel more comfortable/confident getting your left foot down flat, than you will with both feet on tip-toes.
So leaving that right foot on the peg and left foot flat is going to feel a LOT more secure & confidence-inspiring than teeter-totter on the tips of your toes.
I can also tell you that it's impossible to back up when you're vertically challenged - but I'm not beyond just getting off completely to walk the bike backwards if necessary.
But also a tip you almost self-teach the first time you encounter it (but I'll clue you in advance):
always let gravity do the work! If you are pulling into a parking space that has even the slightest hint of a downhill, pull past it and 'back' it in;
that way you are letting gravity 'back you in' and when you leave the motor pull you out! :D
Start by getting some good boots with heels!
But you can get a lowering kit (google Soupy) for the rear end, and you just drop the front by same amount by simply raising the forks through the triple clamps.
That - at least initially - might give more confidence in your feet reach.
There is also a 'sticky' in the Speed Triple section that gives another method of lowering (fitting Sprint rear brake and using the eccentric hub to reduce the height)

As for the power - so ask yourself: do you need a physical restraint (or a government mandate) to prevent you from using all the power of which the bike is capable?
Or do you have the maturity to govern that yourself?
One of the simplest - and cheapest - means of limiting the torque, is to fit a bigger front sprocket - change from 18 to 19.
Many of us go the opposite direction, increasing the REAR sprocket, to get better torque transfer and increased acceleration.
But no shame in going the opposite way either, to slow things up a bit - and easily changed back once you gain more experience!
And just keep that right hand under control!
 
#12 ·
I take my helmet off for you as well to tackle this project and being a new rider. I have a '98 T595. It would not be my choice for a new rider, but take D'Ecosse's advice to heart and soul. The bike is tall for me as well so I am careful at a stop as well when the pavement is not flat and even. Good luck.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I really appreciate the feedback and advice on this forum! Very glad I took up this project in the first place. I also appreciate the intellect among members; I know the power figures and power delivery of this bike are not ideal for someone starting out and I plan on using the advice here to help make the Daytona more approachable while I gain experience. I've ridden my buddies Honda CRF 450R to get some bike experience but it's a completely different machine at 50hp and 225 lbs. Starting from the bottom, I will definitely look into lowering the ride height with the methods DEcosse mentioned as well as fitting the larger front sprocket. I have no doubt I can control the throttle modulation, I'm just not sure how it will feel in terms of response, but I'll also take a look at the TuneECU program as it sounds very interesting! The chain and ground block will also go on the short list :)

Hopefully redmosquito1 was a good guy ;)


Regarding style of the bike, I have come to realize the 05-10 seat/cowl is much more attractive in my opinion. If no one has tried this before, then I guess I'll be the first to attempt to retrofit the newer seat and rear cowl onto the T595 frame. I've been looking at a lot of bikes and one has really gotten my attention more than the others. My new inspiration!! Perfectly captures the look I'm going for. I also realized I may need a tank from a newer bike too.



 
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