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Daytona Deliberations For owners and riders of Daytona 900, 955, 1000 & 1200

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Old 08-09-2006, 11:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Can anyone take me step by step on how to replace my air filter? I just bought a new exhaust and decided to replace my stock air filter with a "B" somethingorother. I've no clue what I'm doing, so I thought I'd ask the experts. And if you have pictures, that's even better!!!
Best regards,
James
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Old 08-10-2006, 02:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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James, to replace the air filter,

1. remove fuel tank.

2. Remove the screws securing the air filter housing and withdraw it from the airbox, noting the sealing ring. Separate the filter element from the housing, noting which way around it fits.

3. Clean the housing and check it for signs of damage. Check the condition of the sealing ring and replace it with a new one if it is damaged.

4. Fit the new air filter into the housing making sure it is the correct way around and seats properly. Install the housing, making sure the rubber seal is in the housing, making sure the rubber seal is in place, and secure it with the screws.

5. Check the crankcase breather hose between the engine and airbox for loose connections, cracks and deterioration and replace with a new one if necessary.

6. Replace fuel tank.

Hope this helps you,

Cya The Tankman
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Old 08-10-2006, 09:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks Tankman!!! Your directions are perfect.
one question, how do i remove the fuel tank? And how do i keep fuel from spilling all over the place? Is the removal difficult? Is there anything i should be careful of?
Thanks again,
James :wink:
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Old 08-11-2006, 01:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If you're me... YOU DON'T!!!

A word of caution: I just replaced my spark plugs and due to a few years of heating up and cooling down, the plastic quick disconnects on the tank became very brittle. One of them snapped right off, in fact so be very ginger with those.
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Old 08-11-2006, 02:09 AM   #5 (permalink)
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James, Fivehundo is correct about the plastic disconnects, but if you are careful they should prove no problems.

1. Make sure the fuel cap is secure

2. Remove both seats, the seat cowling and the tank cover at the front of the tank.

3. Mark or tag each fuel hose with the location of its socket on the tank to prevent confusion on installation - the hoes must be fitted the same round. The feed and return hose unions and the outlets from the tank are self sealing , so there is no need to worry about fuel spillage when releasing them. Hold each hose union in turn and press the retaining clip in - the hose will spring out of its socket.

4. Release the clamp securing the hose to the fuel pressure regulator and detach the hose.

5. Unscrew the bolt securing the rear of the tank. Unscrew the bolt securing each tank support rubber at the front and remove them, noting how they fit. If required raise the rear of the tank using a small block of wood.

6. Mark or tag the drain and breather hoses on the left hand-side of the tank so they can be installed on the correct union. Detach the hoses from the unions.

7. Disconnect the fuel pump wiring connector. Trace the the wiring from the fuel level sensor on the underside of the tank and disconnect it at the connector.

8. Carefully lift the tank off the bike and remove it.

9. Discard the O - ring on each fuel hose union as new ones must be used. Inspect the tank support rubbers for damage or deteration and replace them with new ones if necessary, noting the collared sleeve that fits inside. Anyway thats it hope this helps, Oh also do not turn the key on while tank is off the bike. Good luck mate,

Cya The Tankman
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Old 08-11-2006, 11:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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man, i really don't want to remove the tank now. maybe i'll jut leave it to the professionals.
best regards,
james
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2006-08-11 10:47, JCRIII wrote:
man, i really don't want to remove the tank now. maybe i'll jut leave it to the professionals.
best regards,
james
I see you live in Boston. Leaving it to the professionals might not be a bad idea but since winter usually gets pretty bad for you guys, I might think the better thing to do would be wait until the weather gets too bad to ride, and then change it out.

Can it wait for a few months? That way if you break something or loose some parts, you have a while to order replacements or get diagrams for hose routing and what-not. I usually try to do a lot of my own work because I like working on stuff. If you're the same way and your filter can wait a little bit, I'd do that.
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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James, also it might be worth your while go out and by a Haynes manual (3755) they are good value and make working on these things a lot easier.

Cya The Tankman

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