Triumphrat

nydesmo · 03-20-2006, 01:59 PM

Regards,

I just bought what looks like a brand new 1995 Daytona 1200 with 4,000 miles. The bike has D&D cans and the owner did not know if it was jetted or not (Is there a way to tell?) ... which leads me to the problem.

The bike sat for more than a year, indoors without being run.

After changing the fluids and battery the bike fired up and sounded like it was running on two cylinders, so off the carbs went to be rebuilt and cleaned. Cleaning the jets got the bike sounding better at warm up and running on four cylinders.

Problem is the bike barely has enough power below 4,000RPM to get itself moving. High in the revs the bike sounds and runs like a champ ... but as it is set up right now I am fearful the clutch will not last long (truly, its not the way I ride).

I am new to Triumph's, but hope you guys can help with suggestions or from experience?

Please help.
Thanks,
Greg

PS. I ordered the license plate: 6E BST

Nickwiz · 03-20-2006, 07:33 PM

Change the plugs clean the airfilter. Then take it to a Dyno shop and get em to set it up.

daytonacharlie · 03-20-2006, 08:23 PM

Greg,
There's a little known additional detail that often gets overlooked... there are two tiny inline fuel filters located at the point where the fuel lines attach to the carbs. The tech who rebuilt/cleaned your carbs may have found them and tossed them which is what you should do as they clog up, especially after sitting for so long not being run. To find them, remove the fuel lines from the carbs, pull the filters out of the carbs (two tiny little things about 1/2" long), throw in trash bin. This along with what Nick suggested will get you closer. Let us know if that cures it. If not I'm sure we can figure it out, just let us know what it's doing next.

dc

[ This message was edited by: daytonacharlie on 2006-03-21 07:05 ]

nydesmo · 03-21-2006, 03:09 PM

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the info ... I will ask about the filters and wonder if they are still in the fuel lines. The plugs were pulled and checked for spark and the filter cleaned, those are not the problems. I agree, need to get it onto a dyno for best results, its just I want it to be in a better stepping off point before I take the next step.

Thanks,
Greg

93-Daytona · 03-21-2006, 04:04 PM

Hi nydesmo, new to the forum,but thought I could offer my 2c worth. Unlikely to be the fuel filters being clogged as you say the bike is sluggish under 4000rpm. More likely that the pilot air screws need adjustment, too lean at present in your case. This is a job best left to a competent dealer, as a special 90degree calibrated screw driver is required and the c02 readings must be taken which involves a gas analyzer. And finally the carbs will need to be synchronized which involves 4 vacuum guages set up to measure the amount of vacuum at idle, then adjusted so that all are even. Also quite probable the diaphragms have stiffened due to sitting for so long. This will show on the vacuum guages during testing.
Be sure the dealer that adjusts your mixtures uses an analyzer that plugs into the 4 separate 10mm bolt holes in the exhaust header pipes and NOT into the mufflers themselves. Incorrect readings are given if the mufflers are probed because the exhaust gases from each cylinder are mixed, so you can't tell which carb needs adjusting.
Also bear in mind that Dyno is very good at making a motor run extremely well, the setting up requires extended and regular intervals of full on revving,....if you're comfortable with that. Your 1200 is a very powerful machine which is well possible to be tuned well by a fussy engine tuner with the right gear. Let us know what you find
Cheers Kerry

93-Daytona · 03-21-2006, 04:16 PM

and just a footnote, DON'T digard the inline filters, have them cleaned with a special carb cleaning spray and compressed air, or replaced if in doubt. They protect the float needles from fine particles that damage the seats. The needle comes as a full assembly and is expensive...you have 4 of them!
The inline filter is a secondary filter to the fuel tap filter which is coarser in its constuction.

daytonacharlie · 03-22-2006, 12:48 PM

93-Daytona,
Great to have you on board as a member... your expertise will be a welcome asset to the group. Thanks for straightening me out about the carb mini-filters. I was basing that recommendation on advise given to me by a Triumph mechanic here in Atlanta.

Nydesmo, the carb sync does make a lot of sense as the next step. If you have the patience and the tools to do it, it will make a world of difference. Also I'm currently running my pilot air screws at 2-1/2 turns out. I've never done an exhaust analization but it seems to run best at this setting.

dc

nydesmo · 03-22-2006, 02:23 PM

93-Daytona and DaytonaCharlie, you guys are great. Thank you so much for your help and direction. I have lots to work this coming weekend to try thanks to your direction and hope I can get the beast running better. Cannot wait!!!

I am used to individual carbs and the syncing of them individually, twins are so much easier to work on and access their carbs. I will keep you informed.

Many thanks,
Greg

bradtx · 03-23-2006, 11:02 AM

nydesmo, Not to steer you away from the direction you're going, but you may want to also check your electrical connections, primarily grounds...a copper eyelet, grounded to an aluminum engine secured by a steel screw can cause hard to find problems. I mention this as ignition advance problems can also give the symptoms you mentioned.

Brad

93-Daytona · 03-25-2006, 02:48 AM

With you on that one too Brad, a problem I discovered the day I bought the Daytona was a slight hesitation when throttling back on with a passenger, mainly over bumps, traced it to the ECU socket. With a pillion the extra weight brought the seat into contact with the ECU plug and put downward pressure on it. The rubber buttons attched to the nderside of the seat had worn quite flat, so replaced them and had no more trouble. The most simple things can cause the most complicated problems!