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Daytona Deliberations For owners and riders of Daytona 900, 955, 1000 & 1200

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Old 11-05-2012, 06:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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electrical problems

I have itermitant non charging problems on my 06 955 Daytona. Started with the main ignition fuse melting and burning contacts in fuse box. As one is not avalable without bying a wiring loom I wired in a seperate fuse holder along side. The battery went flat on me again and I found there was not enough charge with the lights on which cant be turned off without disconnecting (thanks EEC). After testing altanator windings replaced the regulator. That went wrong and fried the battery and ECU. New reg. and attery second hand ECU. 100 mile ride hour lunch stop started no problem. 20 more miles no speedo then no rev counter regognised the symptoms battery going flat again. pulled off the headlight plugs got home. Near home speedo and rev counter came back. left it running checked withvolt meter 11.5v. massed arund checking a few leads, turned it off and it then restarted and started charging again. I've now changed the headlight plus because the earth terminals were burning (modern spade terminals are rubbish). earths have been checked an extra one put from battery to frame. the wires to the ignition fuse get very warm. the bike has done 34500 miles and up til the last couple of mounths been very reliable but is now driving me up the wall anyone got any ideas.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you have already replaced the Regulator, most likely is the Stator - the connector plug from stator is also a source of failure (burning/melting)
See this thread for diagnostic info for checking the stator
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html

The simplest,quickest test for stator is just to disconnect it and check resistance between any one of the three terminals to engine ground:
it should be 'open' (infinite resistance) - if you get short, stator is burned.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 995 mike View Post
.... earths have been checked an extra one put from battery to frame. ...
There is no need (nor gain!) to ground the frame - nothing is electrically connected to the frame and there is zero current that flows through it.
The engine is grounded (return path for starter motor, spark plugs, oil & neutral sensors) but none of that current flows through the frame itself.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I have tested stator windings. OK pairs of wires producing required AC volts when disconnected from rectifyer. Someone has suggested the design of regulator lends itself to overheating and fitting a modified upgrade, an FH020AA with a piece of loom to fit. A more modern design that runs cooler as fitted to an R1. Sorry about the bad language. Anyone else heard of these? Mike
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Did you read the sticky thread I linked above?
The FH20 is just newer version of the FH012 per the theme of that thread
Yes, that is a good upgrade
However you need to be certain that the Stator is good.
Since you replaced the Regulator (even if with std type) that suggests something else is the problem

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Originally Posted by 995 mike View Post
I have tested stator windings. OK pairs of wires producing required AC volts when disconnected from rectifyer....
Just to say 'producing required volts' is not enough Mike:
You need to compare all three phases and they need to be equal (at any given rpm)
What are the actual AC volts at idle
1-2
2-3
3-1

Did you do the isolation test between stator & ground?
Did it pass that?
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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no stator wires to ground. It's going to dealer tomorrow for remap as the last dealer seams to have put speed triple map on it as rev limmiter is kicking in before 10000. speaking to receptionist he says its worth him spending an hour checking connections. sounds like he might know where to look.If he makes a quick easy fee and I get a result we're both happy. I know a woman who had a 955 and her ignition fuse melted on a continental trip and she worked in sales at this dealer. Thanks for help and advice. I'l post the outcome.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Update. Another remap of second hand ECU all running as it should. They cut into the loom and found a crimp and some wiring burnt. Soldered in a part from another loom. Did 150 miles yesterday no problem. Off to track day on Saturday at Oulton Park, looking at weather forcast looks like the Bridgestone wets will get another outing. Mike
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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bloody electrics

I too have a 2006 Daytona, in the last few months the problems have started, flat battery, no charge, replaced regulator with electrex brand, same thing happened, riding along all lights, ignition cut out, bike turns over but fuel pump doesn't work, and the engine fuse blows as soon as you turn key on. I'm paying triumphs $2800 for a new ECU, bloody ripoff.
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Old 09-15-2013, 02:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DALERF View Post
... I'm paying triumphs $2800 for a new ECU, bloody ripoff.
ECU problems are rare - and sound unrelated to your problem?
you can also find ECU on EBay (at least in the US)
Any 00+ Daytona 955, or Speed Triple or Sprint 00-04 will do, just need to change the map if one if the latter is sourced.
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