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Daytona Deliberations For owners and riders of Daytona 900, 955, 1000 & 1200

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Old 10-12-2012, 12:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Electrical Problem 955i

I just purchased a 2005 955i with 7,500kms. When I test rode the bike the engine light was on but was told by the dealership that it was because of a low battery. The bike rode great so I traded in my VTR and bought the bike. The dealership agreed to address the engine light problem but after pulling out of the dealership and getting about 20yds down the road the instrument panel went blank. I turned the bike off and when I tried to restart there was no power. I pushed it back to the dealership where they boosted the bike to get it started and put a multimeter on it - it read 10 volts - still with no display on the instruments. The regulator and some wiring by the battery were very hot so we turned the bike off. So I've left the bike at the dealership but as they're not a Triumph dealership have no Triumph experts there. I've looked through the forums and think that the problem may be the regulator - is this possible with such low kilometers? If so, is it better to go with OEM or after market? Still really excited to get the bike though!
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Yes, the stock regulator is a POS... Easy to change and you are back in business.


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Old 10-12-2012, 12:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Regulator/Rectifiers can go at any time. This is true of any bike, particularly those fitted with the older SCR shunt R/R.

Don't allow the 'Stealer' to hoodwink you! If its an electrical problem related to the Regulator/Rectifier, battery, Stator or wiring in general they should be able to fault it -- or send it to someone who can!

If you want to investigate it for yourself, here is the link by the Master of all things auto-electrical: D'Ecosse: Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade: http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html

Best of luck.


Last edited by DeanRider; 10-12-2012 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Charging systems are the same on most all modern makes/models. It shouldn't take a "Triumph mechanic" to diagnose and correct the problem. If it is a bad R/R and you can get them to upgrade to a MOSFET style unit that would be the best bet.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sardinecan View Post
Charging systems are the same on most all modern makes/models. It shouldn't take a "Triumph mechanic" to diagnose and correct the problem. If it is a bad R/R and you can get them to upgrade to a MOSFET style unit that would be the best bet.
Modern society has succeeded in dumbing down most everyone, mechanics included.

Just need to find a mechanic that understands the systems he/she is working on, and not the one that has to follow automated step by step process starting with make, model, year to guide him/her through.
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Need help - really confused

Couldn't wait for the dealership any longer so picked the bike up yesterday and trailered it home. I read through the link and have done the following so far but I really don't know what these readings mean!

There is only 1 connection from the stator lead to the R/R, I couldn't find another one.

A ‘cold’ resistance check for shorted diode/SCR:
Unplug both input & output plugs from R/R;
With your meter set to read resistance (use a diode test if the your multi-meter has one), test from each pin of the three pin plug, to both the red & black wired pins of the 4-pin plug; NONE of these should read short circuit (zero resistance); depending which way you bias the test leads, you may get some reading (from the forward bias of the component) but it must absolutely not be a short. If you see a short on any of these readings the R/R is defective.


I followed these instructions and this are the readings I get with + lead (red) from multi meter to the yellow wires and - lead (black) to the red and black wires:

YELLOW 1 to
RED 1, 604
RED 2, 604
BLACK 1, 1
BLACK 2, 1

YELLOW 2 to
RED 1, 629
RED 2, 629
BLACK 1, 1
BLACK 2, 1

YELLOW 3 to

RED 1, 634
RED 2, 634
BLACK 1, 1
BLACK 2, 1

Reversed the polarity (+ red multi meter lead to red and black wires and - black multi meter lead to yellow)

YELLOW 1 to

RED 1, 1
RED 2, 1
BLACK 1, 574
BLACK 2, 574

YELLOW 2 to

RED 1, 1
RED 2, 1
BLACK 1, 583
BLACK 2, 583

YELLOW 3 to

RED 1, 1
RED 2, 1
BLACK 1, 573
BLACK 2, 573

1 is the reading on the multi meter digital readout when it's turned onto the diode check.

I have no idea what these readings mean - can someone please help. The battery is good but the readings on the multi meter drop when the bike is running.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Those readings suggest the R/R is good - reads absolutely as a good unit would, all the rectifier components read correctly forward & reverse.

Not sure if things changed on the 05 model - on previous years, there was an initial connector from the stator that was located in the vicinity of the top left rear corner of the cam cover; then a subsequent connector at the R/R itself (which is probably the one you found); they may have eliminated that first connector at 05, however check for it - you can follow the cable up from where it exits the stator cover on the top of the left side cover.

You need to do the stator checks next:

First thing to check is that you get 'open' (infinite resistance) between any of the three stator connector terminals to engine ground - if you read 'short' (zero ohms) stator is burned.
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks DEcosse. For the stator check is that with the bike turned on/off/running? Disconnected from the R/R?
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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For the stator grounding check, engine off and disconnected from the R/R so you can access the three contacts in the connector coming from the stator. To test the stator voltage output, the engine needs to be running with the plug disconnected to measure the voltage at the three contacts at 5Krpm for max output readings. This is AC voltage.

As far as the R/R regulating the correct voltage to the battery, engine running with all components connected and metering at the battery terminals. The voltage at 5Krpm should be 13.5-15VDC.

Last edited by Felony; 10-15-2012 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Okay done that - all the readings are open so that should be good. I re-tested the battery, the ignition was on for a few minutes, the instrument panel started flashing - reading had dropped to 9.97V - ignition reading was 12.8V. I fully charged the battery yesterday.

Could this just be a bad battery?

I read the codes on the engine light and got P0135, P0230 and P1231 which I'm going to clear then see what happens.

Thanks everyone for your help so far.
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